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Phil finally building the DF


Phil Winks
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2006 it prob was John, I think I remember Andy's name though I'm not generally good at names, Really wish I could remember the name of the guy who used to teach me.

I moved to the south west a while back, and now fly with 2 clubs.

Webster flyers at orchard portman (all electric) (just outside Taunton)

And a Devon club, Blackdown RCFC who use the old WWII runway at Smeatharpe in the black down hills and whose members fly everything from little electrics to some superb scale jets and everything in between.

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Colin rings a bell one thing he taught me to do when a model is face in is to think of a pit prop and to put the stick towards the low wing to prop it it up, I still use that bit of advice when landing funny how advice like that sticks (pun intended) in your head,

Also have memories of searching the willow forest behind the patch on more than one occasion for another lost model, never mine, though more by luck than judgement back then

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Some more progress today and this is, as expected, turning into a proper joiners model, the compound joints on the diagonal bracing being of greatest interest, day in day out I cut similar joints in 4x2 and 8x3 for roofs, so should be able to do this with my eyes shut, it was the miniature scale that nearly threw me till I took a step back gave myself a good talking to and then just got the job done.

picture 011 df 2014.jpg

Next up is the top deck and hatches and cut the tailplane seat accurately, if I can I'll video that process as it may be of interest, it does ensure the wings and tail plane are both in the same plane and that the incidence is correct.

One mod I've included at this stage is some local reinforcing at the lower longeron/vertical brace joint as I felt this area was a likely week point, all I've used is 0.8mm ply to bind the two braces either side of the lower longeron.

picture 012 df 2014.jpg

Thats it till tomorrow evening

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Obviously its Bank holiday weekend so the weather is not brilliant for flying so between cleaning the car, the van and other sundry must do items, I've progressed somewhat further.

picture 013 df 2014.jpg

I've found the stain for the wood work it's 2 coats of "patent knotting" not an obvious choice I know, but while discussing the issue with a decorator friend, this was suggested as it is shellac varnish and could well have been a paint/stain of choice back in the 30's, and I must say I like the colour, add to this a coat of matt or gloss fuel proofer and I think we'll have a good finish.

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the front top hatch for access to the engine mount nuts and the carb bell mouth for priming is fitted with 4 magnets mounted in pairs, a system I've used much before and the engagement is very solid

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and finally the underside maintenance hatch for access to the throttle servo and fuel pipe linkages

picture 016 df 2014.jpg

Next up will be the servo mounts and a little fettling and the fuse will be ready for that varnish and a metal foil treatment to the cowl after temp fitting the engine so the grill can be fitted between the 2 FC's.

The 2 holes either side of the cowl are for the top and bottom mixture needles, the tank filler valve and the fuel button that holds the overflow outlet, no hanging fuel tubes on this girl, a pet hate of mine.

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only a little progress today,

the tank bay and tail servo mounts installed

picture 017 df 2014.jpg

and a view from the front with the hatch removed showing the slot under the fuel tank for the RX Bty

picture 020 df 2014.jpg

The throttle servo mount, this will be the fiddliest job to set up

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and as a result of going back through some of the other DF build blogs, a perceived weak point has be strengthened, one or two have had this joint break.

picture 019 df 2014.jpg

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well after a difficult week in south Yorkshire, no time to visit John stones and his club mates though, I've had a couple of afternoons recuperating in the shed and progress shows.

fuselage is 99% decorated.

picture 021 df 2014.jpg

The rudder control arm made from epoxy glass sheet

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Battery check fitted in its cubby hole, it's a good snug fit.

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and here's the other end of that hole, and the tank is fitted C/W overflow behind a fuel spot, and a filler valve, making refuelling/defuelling a breeze

picture 026 df 2014.jpg

and a view of the engine in situ with the custom exhaust, this will eventually be satin black enamel. I still have to do something with the crankcase breather/oiler pipe.

picture 029 df 2014.jpg

To be fair the aluminium tape hasn't gone on as well as litho plate would've done, but is a bit lighter and as its already in my stock cupboard somewhat cheaper too.

I think next up is the undercarriage, which means I must also get the wheels done.

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That's another piece of craftsmanship Phil, it look's brilliant and you're capturing the period feel and look, no doubt about it. If you rub linseed oil into the varnished wood you'll even get the smell as well! Have you tried running the engine with that very long exhaust? I would have thought that it might not like it, but you never know.

I think the aluminium tape looks great, by the way. You want the hand beaten panel look, not perfection. I've never tried it.

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Thanks Colin and Dave.

Yes Colin the test runs on the bench were done with the exhaust pipe fitted though without the silicone pipe joiner, that was added as the engine vibrations would've ripped the exhaust of its mounts to the fuselage, the trick apparently with these extensions is to ensure the internal bore is at least as big as the the exit hole on the original silencer and mine is some 2mm larger throughout so it really only acts as a duct creating no extra back pressure, as a bonus it does seem to slightly add to the noise damping effect of the silencer and hopefully it'll keep the oily mess of the airframe, well mostly indecision

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I've found that lengthening the outlet pipe generally makes them sound better, I think the extra expansion volume blends the fring stroke and makes a deeper more mellow sound. I know that to avoid affecting power too much and also avoid over-heating the exhaust valve you're advised to allow for progressive gas expansion, so you need to watch that diameter. 2mm all the way through sounds a bit tight. I've never done anything close to the length you've got there. The other way to do it is to feed into two pipes and that can look even better as well. Best of luck with it.

Edited By Colin Leighfield on 01/09/2014 07:37:48

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Point taken Colin though on the heat issue the entire length of the exhaust got only touch warm on a 6 min 1/2 throttle run and the head was only just feeling warm too, though it was possibly a touch rich still, but obviously not to much as full throttle gave the expected max rpm and cooling won't be an issue in this airframe

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