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Crescent Bullet Owners


Jack Banner
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Hey there,

I am in the final stages of re-covering and re-fitting out a Bullet bought on Ebay. Turned out to be a bigger project than I thought but nearly there now.

Only issue is I wasn't given the build CD (this was made from the PB Models kit) and the A3 sheet I was given doesn't show the throws (or anything useful really!)

A bit of google-fu found a recommendation for the CofG at 80mm but I have drawn a blank on the control throws.

I was going to go for around 10mm on the Ailerons, 14mm on the elevator and as much as I can get on the rudder. With a dash of expo does that sound about right?

many thanks for anyone who can help.

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10mm sounds quite a lot on the ailerons, esp at high speed, I'd advise have a low rate also set, at say 60% in case it's a bit twitchy! Elev sounds about right, also might be good idea to have a lower rate selectable for initial flights. I set my PB Tornado up at 10mm on Ail's & it was quite twitchy, so added more expo & low rates at about 70% that's OK for now.

Enjoy!

Bill

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After flying Bullet for a number of years i would advise,

Aileron at 100% High rate 9mm up 8mm down

Elevator at 100% High rate 9mm up 11mm down.

Then set your low rate to 50%.

Rudder max throw at high rate then set low rate to 50%

Try this and see how it feels and adjust your rates accordingly?  Generally I would advise to fly on low rates. As for Expo I would start at 20% and wouldn't advise anything over 40%, again this is asking for trouble.

 

Hope this helps

Sam

Edited By Sam Wragg on 19/12/2014 15:08:27

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Useful info Guys.

Nowt like advice from actual users ! and has asked a few questions I was pondering over .

Will continue my original Bullett refurb , if and when I get the garage sorted . and the cold weather a bit more bearable .

sadly the wing was beyond repair , but Stevie Dunning has made me a " superb " replacement , with mods.

At least it will begin as superb, until I get my rope, tackle , and hatchet into it ? delicate I ain't.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi all.

I have now successfully flown my re-furbished Bullet and it was very good! I found it a pleasure to fly being nice and stable in the air and predictable. I haven't fully tested it's flight envelope as yet but will do over the next few weeks.

One thing I do want to look at changing is the nose wheel. Currently it is fixed but I would quite like to have some steering there if at all possible. Does anyone have some pictures of a steerable nose-wheel on this plane please? Any tips on how best to do it would also be good.

cheers

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Hi

I've just purchased a Crescent PB Bullet and am starting to build it. I've built a couple of 30" span planes from plans, but this is my first kit.

Sooo, apologies if I post some silly questions!

Firstly, I've put the leading and trailing edges on the the foam veneer wings, I next have to fit the inside and outside edges which are made from aileron balsa, and the the wing tips.

Questions are, I assume I have to bevel the aileron front edge to allow it to move, what type of hinge is recommended and when I join the the 2 wing halves together, do I have to chamfer the inside edges to make a better joint for the dihedral? Also, what's recommended, single or twin aileron servos? Finally (for now) when I join the wing halves together, and strengthen it with epoxy/webbing, how do I neatly cover the joint in film?

Thanks.

Ian.

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hello Ian...my answer for you how I would do it.......

Mylar for hinge's then run over with the covering..to give a gap free hinge...

if it has dihedral in it you'll need to chamfer the wings to get the correct amount....

either or single or twin servo's up to you.....twin is easier to adjust for differential etc...

the wing joint can be covered over with masking tape and the covering will stick to that...

ken Anderson....ne.....1 tech dept/not.

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Thanks for the replies, I have a sheet if mylar I can make some hinges out of, I still haven't decided on 1 or 2 servos yet!

Looks like there may be some dihedral cut into my wings, will find out when I finish sanding them down and clean the ends up.

Problem of the evening, I sanded the trailing edge, using the flat surface of the veneer of the wing as a sanding guide, so if I covered the wing, the new edge would look like part of the wing. Unfortunately, this measures 10mm wide and the aileron stock is 12mm.

Any tips how I should fit/sand the ailerons to the wing?

Cheers, Ian.

 

 

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Before wings were cut with the majority of the aileron as well, the 'old' method was to attached, say, 1/2" sheet to the trailing edge just with spots of glue to tack it in place. The ailerons were then planed and sanded to shape, the tacks released and the l/e sanded to a bevel for the hinge line. In some cases I used to add 1/8" square spruce to the edge of the 1/2" balsa before sanding so as to provide both a hard edge in the final aileron and a means to help prevent sanding too far.

Hope that helps.

Steve

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I did something similar. Tack glued the aileron stock along the whole length of the wing
TE, then planed & sanded the aileron stock to blend in with the TE.
Release the TE from the tack glueing with a sharp knife & cut the aileron stock into
correct lengths for tip, centre & aileron.
Bevel aileron LE with plane.

Next bullet I build will definitely have twin aileron servos!
Cheers.

 

 

 

Edited By Richard Wood on 20/01/2015 08:05:13

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Thanks again for the replies/help.

Put 4 spots of PVA to hold the aileron stock in place (thought this morning, I should have used my glue gun!) so hopefully it will hold when I plane and sand it.

I need to pull my finger out and decide on servos and order them!

Any other tips gratefully appreciated!

Cheers, Ian.

Edited By Ian Southerton 1 on 20/01/2015 12:41:24

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Hi Ian, Not sure if it's clear from the pic but it's worth adding strips of balsa along
the canopy base to increase contact area a bit.
Also consider adding an internal piece of balsa near the apex at the back of the canopy.
Not completely necessary but that joint position can get thin with all the planing & sanding.

The bullet is a very therapeutic model to build - especially if you're keen on planing
& sanding fuselages.
This fuse was eventually covered with medium tissue & Poly-C.


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