Jack Banner Posted December 18, 2014 Share Posted December 18, 2014 Hey there, I am in the final stages of re-covering and re-fitting out a Bullet bought on Ebay. Turned out to be a bigger project than I thought but nearly there now. Only issue is I wasn't given the build CD (this was made from the PB Models kit) and the A3 sheet I was given doesn't show the throws (or anything useful really!) A bit of google-fu found a recommendation for the CofG at 80mm but I have drawn a blank on the control throws. I was going to go for around 10mm on the Ailerons, 14mm on the elevator and as much as I can get on the rudder. With a dash of expo does that sound about right? many thanks for anyone who can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Michie Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 10mm sounds quite a lot on the ailerons, esp at high speed, I'd advise have a low rate also set, at say 60% in case it's a bit twitchy! Elev sounds about right, also might be good idea to have a lower rate selectable for initial flights. I set my PB Tornado up at 10mm on Ail's & it was quite twitchy, so added more expo & low rates at about 70% that's OK for now. Enjoy! Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 I think 6-8mm each way on ailerons and 10-12mm on elevator should be enough. I honestly don't know exactly how much I have set up on mine, it was done on the basis of 'looks about right'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dunning Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 How often do we do that Bob? And it generally works out OK! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Yes Steve, once you have built and flown a few models you do get a feel for what you will need. I have to say that I hardly ever end up with the manufacturers recommended setup, it's a start point that you can then alter to match your own preferences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Wragg Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 After flying Bullet for a number of years i would advise, Aileron at 100% High rate 9mm up 8mm down Elevator at 100% High rate 9mm up 11mm down. Then set your low rate to 50%. Rudder max throw at high rate then set low rate to 50% Try this and see how it feels and adjust your rates accordingly? Generally I would advise to fly on low rates. As for Expo I would start at 20% and wouldn't advise anything over 40%, again this is asking for trouble. Hope this helps Sam Edited By Sam Wragg on 19/12/2014 15:08:27 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Banner Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 Many thanks all, that certainly helps me out. I currently only have a single servo for the Ailerons so will test fly with no differential Sam but will probably investigate this in the near future. fingers crossed for flying at the weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangar 9 nut Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 This is good for me as I have just finished building a Bullett too with OS 40fsr cant wait for next years UKCAA ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Banner Posted December 19, 2014 Author Share Posted December 19, 2014 I have a mk1 irvine .39 in mine. Should be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minty morton Posted December 19, 2014 Share Posted December 19, 2014 Hi Jack. My EP bullet as seen at UKCAA events for the last 2 years seems to fly reasonably ok with the following:- Aileron 9mm 45% expo Elevator 10mm 40% expo Rudder 30mm 65% expo Hope this helps. Minty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Android Posted December 21, 2014 Share Posted December 21, 2014 Useful info Guys. Nowt like advice from actual users ! and has asked a few questions I was pondering over . Will continue my original Bullett refurb , if and when I get the garage sorted . and the cold weather a bit more bearable . sadly the wing was beyond repair , but Stevie Dunning has made me a " superb " replacement , with mods. At least it will begin as superb, until I get my rope, tackle , and hatchet into it ? delicate I ain't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Banner Posted January 16, 2015 Author Share Posted January 16, 2015 Hi all. I have now successfully flown my re-furbished Bullet and it was very good! I found it a pleasure to fly being nice and stable in the air and predictable. I haven't fully tested it's flight envelope as yet but will do over the next few weeks. One thing I do want to look at changing is the nose wheel. Currently it is fixed but I would quite like to have some steering there if at all possible. Does anyone have some pictures of a steerable nose-wheel on this plane please? Any tips on how best to do it would also be good. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi I've just purchased a Crescent PB Bullet and am starting to build it. I've built a couple of 30" span planes from plans, but this is my first kit. Sooo, apologies if I post some silly questions! Firstly, I've put the leading and trailing edges on the the foam veneer wings, I next have to fit the inside and outside edges which are made from aileron balsa, and the the wing tips. Questions are, I assume I have to bevel the aileron front edge to allow it to move, what type of hinge is recommended and when I join the the 2 wing halves together, do I have to chamfer the inside edges to make a better joint for the dihedral? Also, what's recommended, single or twin aileron servos? Finally (for now) when I join the wing halves together, and strengthen it with epoxy/webbing, how do I neatly cover the joint in film? Thanks. Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 hello Ian...my answer for you how I would do it....... Mylar for hinge's then run over with the covering..to give a gap free hinge... if it has dihedral in it you'll need to chamfer the wings to get the correct amount.... either or single or twin servo's up to you.....twin is easier to adjust for differential etc... the wing joint can be covered over with masking tape and the covering will stick to that... ken Anderson....ne.....1 tech dept/not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 +1 for the masking tape over the centre join, giving the tape a light rub with wet'n'dry will enable the film to stick even better. My Bullet cores were supplied correctly angled to match up giving the right amount of dihedral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi Ian, Just one other thing with the build - check the wing bolt captive nut positions in their ply mount in the fuselage. If I remember correctly they may need shifting a bit to avoid the aileron torque rods. Cheers. Edited By Richard Wood on 19/01/2015 13:47:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Of course the twin aileron servo arrangement avoids this issue - the aileron torque rods do not need to be built in to the wing centre section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dunning Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hitec 77 or similar low profile work well in a wing of this thickness, speaking from experience. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Thanks for the replies, I have a sheet if mylar I can make some hinges out of, I still haven't decided on 1 or 2 servos yet! Looks like there may be some dihedral cut into my wings, will find out when I finish sanding them down and clean the ends up. Problem of the evening, I sanded the trailing edge, using the flat surface of the veneer of the wing as a sanding guide, so if I covered the wing, the new edge would look like part of the wing. Unfortunately, this measures 10mm wide and the aileron stock is 12mm. Any tips how I should fit/sand the ailerons to the wing? Cheers, Ian. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dunning Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Before wings were cut with the majority of the aileron as well, the 'old' method was to attached, say, 1/2" sheet to the trailing edge just with spots of glue to tack it in place. The ailerons were then planed and sanded to shape, the tacks released and the l/e sanded to a bevel for the hinge line. In some cases I used to add 1/8" square spruce to the edge of the 1/2" balsa before sanding so as to provide both a hard edge in the final aileron and a means to help prevent sanding too far. Hope that helps. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I did something similar. Tack glued the aileron stock along the whole length of the wing TE, then planed & sanded the aileron stock to blend in with the TE. Release the TE from the tack glueing with a sharp knife & cut the aileron stock into correct lengths for tip, centre & aileron. Bevel aileron LE with plane. Next bullet I build will definitely have twin aileron servos! Cheers. Edited By Richard Wood on 20/01/2015 08:05:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Thanks again for the replies/help. Put 4 spots of PVA to hold the aileron stock in place (thought this morning, I should have used my glue gun!) so hopefully it will hold when I plane and sand it. I need to pull my finger out and decide on servos and order them! Any other tips gratefully appreciated! Cheers, Ian. Edited By Ian Southerton 1 on 20/01/2015 12:41:24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Hi Ian, Not sure if it's clear from the pic but it's worth adding strips of balsa along the canopy base to increase contact area a bit. Also consider adding an internal piece of balsa near the apex at the back of the canopy. Not completely necessary but that joint position can get thin with all the planing & sanding. The bullet is a very therapeutic model to build - especially if you're keen on planing & sanding fuselages. This fuse was eventually covered with medium tissue & Poly-C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Cheers Richard, will look at the plan when I get home.I plan to go electric and was lucky enough to try a converted bullet a few weeks ago. I was struggling to fly my foam wot4 15mph winds with gusts up to 25, but found the bullet a lot easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangar 9 nut Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I built a Bullet with servos in wing and a carbon rod through the wing have not been out to maiden her yet! i used spectrum a5040 servos in the wings and std futaba servos for elevator,rudder and throttle fingers crossed ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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