Richard Wood Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 Electric Bullet flies well on around 650-700W using a 4S. Try to keep tail end light. Edited By Richard Wood on 21/01/2015 08:53:01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken anderson. Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 many moons ago I built a one of these from the kit-with an Irvine 40 c/w a tuned pipe---- it was one of the best models ever for doing a perfect flat spin... ken Anderson....ne...1..... bullet dept. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hi all Just sorting my wings out (I can manage an hour max in the garage in this cold weather!). I've trimmed the aileron stock down, detached it from the wing and have cut and glued the aileron stock ends and centres on the wings. I spoke to the guy who let me try his Bullet and he said he used a single servo for the ailerons so I now aim to go this way too. I looked in the bag of bits with the kit, but don't like how I think the torque rods are fitted. Has anybody got any pics of theirs installed, or tips for fitting them? Thanks, Ian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Hi Ian, The pre-bent piano wire torque rods should run inside plastic tubes & these tubes are epoxied to the wing TE centre-line at the centre section before the TE proper (the shaped aileron stock) is glued in place over it, ensuring no epoxy binds up movement of the assembly. The TE stock must be also be grooved to fit snugly over the torque rod tubes. Just one tip - please don't leave the uncovered wings in a cold, damp garage. I've learned to my cost that the veneer can wrinkle badly! Hope this helps. Cheers. Edited By Richard Wood on 23/01/2015 09:39:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 and watch out when drilling the wing bolt holes and fitting the precut nut mounting plate in the fuselage, as supplied mine lined up nicely with the torque rods. I had to move the bolts forward by about 1/4" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 You're right Bob. Ian have you glued the centre aileron stock on already? Don't panic if you have - you'll have to do some cutting & chiseling to form a slot to install the rods - or use the twin aileron servo system. (assuming wings are still separate). Edited By Richard Wood on 23/01/2015 09:49:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 I have glued one of the centre Wilkerson pieces but can remove it fairly easily. The torque rods are an L shape with a thread and control arm on the shorter part. The hinges are like eyelets rather than a tube?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 It'd be best to remove the centre piece Ian if it's easily done. Make holes in the wing TE for the eyelets - otherwise the procedure is much the same. The torque rods probably require bending at the aileron end if I remember correctly. Do this before installation & make a left & right pair! (easy to get wrong - done it myself!) Frankly the instructions supplied with the Bullet aren't up to much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Thanks, that makes more sense! Am I correct in assuming I drill/cut the trailing edge to fit the eyelet and hollow out the aileron 'centre' stock for the eyelet head and to allow the torque rod to move? Seems a piece of tube would be easier and neater? I'm waiting for my servos to turn up, so perhaps had better wait until they turn up so i get the spacings correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Posted by Richard Wood on 21/01/2015 08:29:02: Electric Bullet flies well on around 650-700W using a 4S. Try to keep tail end light. Edited By Richard Wood on 21/01/2015 08:53:01 I'm going for the recommended overlander 4240, 60a esc and probably a 4S 3200mah lipo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 23, 2015 Share Posted January 23, 2015 Posted by Ian Southerton 1 on 23/01/2015 12:38:45: Thanks, that makes more sense! Am I correct in assuming I drill/cut the trailing edge to fit the eyelet and hollow out the aileron 'centre' stock for the eyelet head and to allow the torque rod to move? Seems a piece of tube would be easier and neater? I'm waiting for my servos to turn up, so perhaps had better wait until they turn up so i get the spacings correct. Yes, the wing TE just needs to be drilled for a reasonably tight fit for the eyelets which are epoxied in place into the wing TE when happy with everything. Space them apart a little for a secure run for the torque rod wires, one at each end. You'll obviously need to cut & file away some balsa where the rod exits at the centre to allow free movement. A piece of tube is an alternative but the hole fixing of the eyelets does give some extra security. I generally use a round section file to make a groove in the aileron stock. That electric setup will work superbly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Got this far with my wings, the aileron/tip on the other wing needs a new piece added and reprofiling as i was so busy getting the end block and wing flush that I didn't notice i had been a bit over exuberant with the sanding! Servos were here when I got home, so i need to glue the wings together and glass/epoxy them. Latest question, can somebody recommend an epoxy to use? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Foley Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Why not try plaster board jointing tape and PVA. Have used this method on my last few models. A roll can be got at any DIY store. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Use a slow setting or 15 - 20 minute epoxy for joining the wings. Best not to use quick setting epoxies as you don't get enough adjustment time. Recommend ZAP Z-Poxy finishing resin for the fibreglass wing bandage. Apply two coats, letting first set thoroughly. Sand smooth when set - a day or so for full cure. **LINK** Scroll down to bottom for finishing resin. Many model shops stock it. Edited By Richard Wood on 27/01/2015 08:08:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 Blimey, seems a lot too pay for such a small amount of resin that I need. Are there any cheaper alternatives before I bite the bullet (no pun intended!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 27, 2015 Share Posted January 27, 2015 You can use polyester resin available from car repair places - Halfords have it. Don't get it on the foam as it will melt it. I believe Ripmax do a small SP113 resin kit for wing joining. I've had bother with this stuff in the past with it not curing properly - SP113 may well be ok now but haven't tried it for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Bought some zap that should be here tomorrow. Glued the wings together this evening and found the halves are slightly different in profile! Hopefully it won't be noticeable after a bit of filler and sanding. Made a servo box for a single central servo, how do you pass the servo wire out of your servo boxes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted January 29, 2015 Share Posted January 29, 2015 Slight variations in profile at the wing root is quite common in many kits, the incidence of the two panels rel the fuselage should be the same though. Small gaps in the joint can be filled with epoxy & the wing joining fibreglass bandage & resin will also sort it out. The servo wire should just be guided out of the servo box without straining the wire & connected via an extension cable into the receiver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Right, epoxied the wings, made the nose cone after 3 attempts (the overlander motor recommended is rather large!) Just sorting the landing gear before I sand the rear end and start installimg the servos. Question, does the nose wheel run central to the fuselage? I'm struggling to get it looking right as the coiled wire doesn't sit directly over the wheel? Â Will take some pics tomorrow in the day light and post them up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted February 28, 2015 Share Posted February 28, 2015 Belly up picture showing offset nose leg. The wheel is on or near the centre line in this case but it isn't particularly critical as far as my experience goes. If the nose wheel ends up a little off centre should be fine. Need to make sure the leg clears the motor mounting parts of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Spot the mistake, don't think I'm going to be able to chamge itÂÂÂ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevem3akm Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 It's not got a proper engine in it. Lol. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted March 1, 2015 Share Posted March 1, 2015 Lol! Will convert one day as I'm addicted to the 2 stroke smell! Miss my old 350LC. Electric doesn't upset the wife in the house! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Wood Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Nose leg wrong way - it'll never fly right . Nice job so far Ian - thought about what covering you're going to use yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Southerton 1 Posted March 2, 2015 Share Posted March 2, 2015 Well spotted, what a muppet I am! I have some profilm/oracover, that's a job i'm not looking forward to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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