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Hi all

Just sorting my wings out (I can manage an hour max in the garage in this cold weather!).

I've trimmed the aileron stock down, detached it from the wing and have cut and glued the aileron stock ends and centres on the wings.

I spoke to the guy who let me try his Bullet and he said he used a single servo for the ailerons so I now aim to go this way too.

I looked in the bag of bits with the kit, but don't like how I think the torque rods are fitted.

Has anybody got any pics of theirs installed, or tips for fitting them?

Thanks, Ian.

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Hi Ian,
The pre-bent piano wire torque rods should run inside plastic tubes & these
tubes are epoxied to the wing TE centre-line at the centre section before the TE
proper (the shaped aileron stock) is glued in place over it, ensuring no epoxy
binds up movement of the assembly.
The TE stock must be also be grooved to fit snugly over the torque rod tubes.

Just one tip - please don't leave the uncovered wings in a cold, damp garage.
I've learned to my cost that the veneer can wrinkle badly!
Hope this helps.
Cheers.

 

 

Edited By Richard Wood on 23/01/2015 09:39:06

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You're right Bob.
Ian have you glued the centre aileron stock on already?smile o
Don't panic if you have - you'll have to do some cutting & chiseling to form
a slot to install the rods - or use the twin aileron servo system.
(assuming wings are still separate).

 

Edited By Richard Wood on 23/01/2015 09:49:41

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It'd be best to remove the centre piece Ian if it's easily done.
Make holes in the wing TE for the eyelets - otherwise the procedure is much the same.
The torque rods probably require bending at the aileron end if I remember
correctly. Do this before installation & make a left & right pair! (easy to get
wrong - done it myself!)
Frankly the instructions supplied with the Bullet aren't up to much!


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Thanks, that makes more sense! Am I correct in assuming I drill/cut the trailing edge to fit the eyelet and hollow out the aileron 'centre' stock for the eyelet head and to allow the torque rod to move? Seems a piece of tube would be easier and neater?

I'm waiting for my servos to turn up, so perhaps had better wait until they turn up so i get the spacings correct.

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Posted by Ian Southerton 1 on 23/01/2015 12:38:45:

Thanks, that makes more sense! Am I correct in assuming I drill/cut the trailing edge to fit the eyelet and hollow out the aileron 'centre' stock for the eyelet head and to allow the torque rod to move? Seems a piece of tube would be easier and neater?

I'm waiting for my servos to turn up, so perhaps had better wait until they turn up so i get the spacings correct.

Yes, the wing TE just needs to be drilled for a reasonably tight fit for the eyelets
which are epoxied in place into the wing TE when happy with everything.
Space them apart a little for a secure run for the torque rod wires, one at each end.
You'll obviously need to cut & file away some balsa where the rod exits at the centre
to allow free movement.
A piece of tube is an alternative but the hole fixing of the eyelets does give some extra
security.
I generally use a round section file to make a groove in the aileron stock.

That electric setup will work superbly.yes

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Got this far with my wings, the aileron/tip on the other wing needs a new piece added and reprofiling as i was so busy getting the end block and wing flush that I didn't notice i had been a bit over exuberant with the sanding!

Servos were here when I got home, so i need to glue the wings together and glass/epoxy them.

Latest question, can somebody recommend an epoxy to use?

Thanks.img_20150126_204127.jpg

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Use a slow setting or 15 - 20 minute epoxy for joining the wings. Best not to use
quick setting epoxies as you don't get enough adjustment time.

Recommend ZAP Z-Poxy finishing resin for the fibreglass wing bandage.
Apply two coats, letting first set thoroughly.
Sand smooth when set - a day or so for full cure.
**LINK**

Scroll down to bottom for finishing resin. Many model shops stock it.
 

Edited By Richard Wood on 27/01/2015 08:08:16

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You can use polyester resin available from car repair places - Halfords have it.
Don't get it on the foam as it will melt it.
I believe Ripmax do a small SP113 resin kit for wing joining. I've had bother with this
stuff in the past with it not curing properly - SP113 may well be ok now but haven't
tried it for a while.


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Slight variations in profile at the wing root is quite common in many kits, the
incidence of the two panels rel the fuselage should be the same though.
Small gaps in the joint can be filled with epoxy & the wing joining fibreglass bandage
& resin will also sort it out.
The servo wire should just be guided out of the servo box without straining the wire
& connected via an extension cable into the receiver.



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  • 5 weeks later...

Right, epoxied the wings, made the nose cone after 3 attempts (the overlander motor recommended is rather large!) Just sorting the landing gear before I sand the rear end and start installimg the servos.

Question, does the nose wheel run central to the fuselage? I'm struggling to get it looking right as the coiled wire doesn't sit directly over the wheel?

 

Will take some pics tomorrow in the day light and post them up!

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