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Boxing Clever


Tim Hooper
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  • 7 months later...
  • 1 year later...

Hi ,

On a model so small i tend to only use the film covering its self .

So as to reduce the load on the servo and reduce drag on the wing surface.

If you are not use to covering the wing as one it can be a little tricky at first but does make for a nice clean wing surface with free movement of the aileron.

So basically use one piece of film to wrap around the wing from the trailing edge over the top of the wing around the leading edge then continue on the under side of the wing to finish on the trailering edge.

So the steps are:

shape the aileron and wing for top hinging .

use small pieces of film to cover the side edges of the aileron and wing,

then the wing tip in this case you will need to do the inside edge as well.

use two small pieces of film on the top outside edges of the aileron to hold onto the wing and leave a small gap approx 1mm to 2mm gap will do. This will help keep the aileron in position while covering will also help stop the film splitting from the edges.

You may also want to add balsloc all around any edges including around the hinge line.

lay the wing on the table upside down and tack the edge of the film along the rear bottom trailing edge only peal back as much of the backing as is needed.

Now turn the wing over so that the underside of the wing is flat on the table and peal back some more of the backing and proceed to cover the top of the wing once you are at the leading edge you will now need to turn the wing back over and proceed to cover the underside of the wing continuing on to the trailing edge hinge line at this point you will need to slice though the top covering so that the aileron can be folded back on its self.

Now make two cuts in the lower part of the covering so that you can continue with the lower covering to the trailing edge and over the aileron while it is folded back on its self which will create a full length hinge.

Steve

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Hi Kester,

If it seems a little daunting you could do the Aileron 1st then wrap the wing .

Like i did here on a bigger model.aileron on.jpg

I do not have any pictures showing the process which i used on a small 26" model that i used SoLight on.

which is a very light weight film that is semi see through and would of shown through had i used the method shown above.

But both work very well and i have used this method for years and never had one fail on me yet.

You could also cover the wing and Aileron separately then attach the Aileron to the wing using clear packing tape.

Steve

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  • 3 months later...

Hi Tim,

My boxing clever/Sprite is coming along slowly. I've almost finished building the wings. I plan to use an old Parkzone DSM2 transmitter (the type that comes with small RTF models), but this has no servo-reverse or travel adjustment, so everything has to be done mechanically. My thinking is that the plane and Tx can then live in a box, so that only a lipo is needed for a quick sortie ! Then I could leave the model at work

You'll see from the photo that the servo has moved outboard - this is so that it moves in the right direction with the Tx that I'm using. I'm now scratching my head though, as I can't find any info on control surface throws in the plans or build article. If you have any info on this, could you let me know, please ? I'll use this info to determine the length of the horns, so that full movement on the Tx gives me the correct throw on the model.

Cheers

Kester

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  • 2 years later...

Hello all,

Just to let you know that i've started building a Sprite too. Here's the beginning. F1 and doublers are missing in the photo, but they are made by now. So far, only wood from the scrap box has been used!smiley

Servos are sourced and the rest of the electronics were ordered. I'll keep you posted and perhaps the occasional nagging question may show up.

Regards,

PauloSprite progress - 2020-09-22 at 17.28.33.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Paulo

Glad to see someone else building Sprite. I completed mine about a year ago, but it had a fairly eventful first few flights. It was my original intention to use a micro Tx (from a Parkzone ultra micro spitfire) and put this in the box with the plane, so that I didn't have to cart my proper Tx around. But a combination of the throws being too high (and not being able to set them small enough mechanically), plus the lack of expo made the plane totally uncontrollable. Once using a programmable Tx, and getting the CG right, it's a nice little flyer.

Mine comes in a 180g (using a 2S 450mAh lipo). I use a 5x5 prop which delivers 55W, so that's 140W/lb which is punchy enough. Flight times are about 6-7minutes.

The required throws are less than you might think. If you want info on the throws I use, or anything else about this model, just shout.

Cheers

Kester

img_20190624_084008.jpg

20200229_095045.jpg

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Thank you Kester for your message and useful info.

Please send the throw info but there's no rush. It's always useful to have lessons learned stuff from other fellow modellers. As many have said, in small models like these the throws are usually larger than they should be. My Vector and Mini-Blitz were set with about 1/3 of the recommended throws and I dial in a lot of D/R (for my style of flying, I keep expo values low) to have the models well mannered in the air. Except for the Mini-Blitz, I also had to add up some weight to have the Vector, Cutlass and Agritug properly balanced.

BTW, some advice is needed on how to set the servo arms in the wings recessed during assembly and have them pop-out to neutral position.

Congrats on your lovely model. I'll try to match your workmanship, particularly when it comes to the covering!

More pics to follow soon.

If you have the time and patience search YT and FB for Clube de Aeromodelismo de Lisboa to see what I and other fellow modellers are up to.

Best regards,

Paulo

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Hi Paulo,

Re the servos, I seem to remember that I used a servo tester to centre the servo, then fitted the arm and then (using the servo tester) set the arm off to the end of the travel, which took the arm just inside the wing. I think I made the slot in the bottom sheeting slightly longer than on the plan, in order to achieve this (but I might be dreaming this !).

In terms of throws, I'm using:

Aileron: Low 4mm, High 8mm

Rudder: Low 6mm. High 10mm

Elevator: Low 4mm. High 6mm

I did have a look on Youtube at one video of your club (20th September). That BAe Hawk flown by Nuno Miguel is simply stunning ! Very trick with the moving pilots etc, but it was the flying that was utterly convincing.

Cheers

Kester

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Thank you Kester for the message and advice on the servos.

See more of Nuno Miguel's Hawk here with better footage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEV4_7uDAAM&ab_channel=KemSemeiaVentos and his A-10 here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x5pwAfh4RpY&ab_channel=KemSemeiaVentos and here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YAuzJpPP4c&ab_channel=KemSemeiaVentos. In the latter, a Hawk in SwissAF colours is also flown.

Best regards,

Paulo

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  • 2 months later...

Hi guys, got a puzzle.

Picked up on this thread from a new post. Interested, so I went back and read the whole thread from the start.

The first parts have the construction pictures and general information. They go up to December 2015, when someone asked whether this design would be made available as a plan.

Then there is a big gap. The next post is from December 2017 (2 years) from Kester Paine, saying he is just starting his 'Sprite' as I believe the model is now called.
Few posts further on is a picture from Paulo Peres, showing the parts cut out for his build, on top of the Sprite plan.

So, it seems the posts I have missing would be those with details of how to get hold of the plan

Anyone enlighten me?

Thanks

Jeff

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