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Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF mk IXc


Ady Hayward

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Hi folks,

Richard Wills of Warbird Replicas has produced this kit of a Spitfire that goes together with an ease that can only be described as magical. Having built a few from different manufacturers over the past 1/2 century (EEK) this one is going to be the easiest build to date. The wood parts are CNC laser cut with such accuracy that the parts all fit snug together with just enough free play to allow positioning. After assembly the structure is held by its jigs whilst CA adhesive is applied to the joints to complete that parts construction. Quick, easy and above all accurate.
For those reading and wondering if a wood build can be this easy then this is the kit that will show you it is possible!
The following is my build of the latest release of the Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF Mk IXc option for electric power. The kit options also has a power version for the OS52 and similar power and many add on optionss to make the kit as basic or complete as you want. The chosen scheme will most likely be one of the Spitfires flown by 457 Squadron "Grey Nurse" RAAF in tribute to those pilots from down under that flew and fought for our freedom.

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To start the box arrived in quick time encased within a second cardboard box sturdy enough to leave the kit box pristine and unmarked. Opening the box was swiftly followed by a wow that even got SWMBO out off the couch to see what I had made such noise about.
I have been building balsa models now for over 50 years and watched the advances made with keen interest but this kit just blew me away with the quality. The box was full of wood with beautifully thin (@1mm) laser cut parts, ABS mouldings, a substantial pack of small parts and a full size plan with two gloss booklets, one a very comprehensive parts list and the other a full set of building instructions with clear step by step instructions with large clear photos of each step and finally the most gorgeous canopy moulding. This was crystal clear, accurate to shape and protected by a very clingy protective wrapping.
The photos should show just what I saw.

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Adrian

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I am starting the fuselage build so the first thing is to laminate the ply doublers to the sheet balsa fuselage sides. I used PVA here spread all over the ply as it is not too porous and allows working time to spread it thinly before placing it carefully in position on both sides. Make sure you do a left and right pair. Easily done to do two of the same side so shade areas to be glued to make it easier.
Make sure that the two sides match exactly with a 3mm gap along the top edge and leave them overnight with a heavy weight distributed along the glued areas. Plastic tumblers of water are great for this.

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Adrian

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Latest today is the motor/ battery mounting. All the parts fit perfectly and after a dry fit are glued with your preference of PVA or CA. I have marked the motor centre line on to the electric motor mount as a reference for fitting later. Ensure the adhesive contacts all joined parts and clean off any surplus with a paper towel before it runs or goes off. The fuselage crutch has F7 glued in place ensuring it is vertical.

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Adrian

Edited By Ady Hayward on 17/01/2015 21:15:48

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Onwards and upwards. I next glued the front fuselage formers F1, F2 in place making sure that the sides are slightly narrower than the fuselage crutch to allow for the ply doublers. As usual ensure that the formers are vertical to the crutch assembly.
The following is my preferred way of joining the fuselage sides to the fuselage crutch: 1/ Wet the area well where the fuselage sides need to bend to match the former contours. 2/ Leave for a few minutes to let the balsa swell and start to bend. 3/ Apply a bead of PVA to the crutch and former which is to be joined. (In this case to just rear of F7 where the rear fuselage starts to narrow). 4/ Fix the first fuselage side in position with just a couple of strips of adhesive tape. 5/ Repeat for the remaining fuselage side. 6/ Use as much tape as necessary to pull each side hard into the fuselage crutch so that it rests nicely on top of the ply doubler and the crutch is flush with the top edge of the fuselage side and do the same for the remaining side. Draw the tape across the fuselage to pull the sides hard into the formers F1, F2, F7. 7/ Remove any surplus adhesive and ensure the fuselage sides are flush with the front of F1 and the tail ends are level at the tail. The rear section will be glued to the crutch when the rear formers are fitted. If clamps are to be utilised ensure that some scrap balsa or ply is used to spread the load under the clamp feet and not indent the balsa sides.

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Adrian

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Hi Tony,

Many thanks. The laser cutting and fit of parts is some of the best I have seen, and the kit in general is superb. I was probably most impressed with the quality of the balsa with top quality wood selected throughout, and is well matched to function. Even the elliptical wing skins are laser cut for you, and the wing is built on its own jig system.

Adrian

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Hi Jon,

You are correct in thinking that foam wings were the standard, however this Spitfire kit is being produced with a wood wing to satisfy those of us that like wood builds. If Richard reads this then maybe he can enlighten us to what may be around the corner.

As far as I am concerned this kit ticks many boxes for me + I am pining for another Spitfire now.

Adrian

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The cutting looks superb! I am building a Cambrian Spitfire which is the same size. I never thought the wing looked right on the WR one but the new built up wing has been redesigned according to the website so I am sure it will be excellent now.

Good to see the warbird replicas site updated, I emailed about their oleos for my Cambrian Spitfire but got no response, I might try again now there is some action.

I look forward to seeing more!

CS

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Hi CS, Colin, All. Thanks for the kind replies. This kit does deliver on quality and makes the build so much nicer.

Not much to report I'm afraid. After getting home from my work SWMBO had the evening marked for shopping but progress has been made. The following takes less time than is spent writing it up!.
In my rush to affix the fuselage sides into place I forgot to add the 1/2" triangular section to the lower rear sides. It has not impacted the build as they can be fixed in place easily so could be left to this stage if wanted.
The only tricky bit with the fixing is the cutting out of the end of the triangular section to position over the end of the ply doubler. Simply put the section of strip in place and press down hard so that the ply edge leaves a line in the balsa section to show where it lies. If the line cannot be seen then rub a soft lead pencil along the corner of the plywood as shown in the pic and when the section is pressed down will leave a line on the section. which can then be cut out so the section fits well. Next simply glue the triangular section to the sides ensuring they fit snug over the ply doubler and butts against former F7. pin them to the sides and allow to set.
When set the sides can be glued to the fuselage crutch ensuring the crutch is fixed level with the top of the fuselage sides. Secure with pins/ tape/or clamps until set. Finally the inside edges of the triangular sections can be sanded to allow the rear fuselage taper to match the top.

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Adrtian

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Ady, I almost wish I hadn't read through this thread, I have 4 builds on the go and not really making any headway with any of them, but I really want one of these. I will probably just place an order for when they are back in stock, hate waiting for anything, I have no patience what so ever. Want it and want it now! It even looks impressive just from the photos. Can't wait to become even more of a recluse in the man cave. This looks too good to pass by. Thanks!

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Sunday shopping, visits and general Sunday chores got in the way of the build a bit but progress is being made.
Removal of the tape from the previous session showed that all had stayed in place and the fuselage is straight and true so the next job is to fix the top formers in place and fit some top decking. Formers F3 &F4, F5 & F6, F8 & F9 are each paired together so the formers with the locating tongues ( F4, F5, F9) are glued in place first using a set square. Next each of the paired formers are fixed to their respective mate as shown on the fuselage plan. This is because the fuselage changes cross section and a continuous sheet for the top decking is impractical so the formers provide a surface to which each section of top decking can be attached.
To transfer some of the loads from the motor mount and cowling support there is a rather stout piece of 1/2"x 1/2" ramin or Marine ply that has to be fitted between the rear of F1 and into the top of F3. A piece of hard 1/4"x 1/4" balsa then continues rearwards from F4 to F5. After The glue has set the remaining formers (F10, F11) can be fixed in place.

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The forward section of the top decking is from 3/32" (2.4mm) balsa and needs to be carefully cut in half then joined to make a wide sheet that can wrap over the formers F4, F5. I found that wetting the outside surface with water made it bend easily over the formers so that measuring and cutting to size was as easy as possible. I then glued it in place and held it with tape and after some pins to prevent it from moving. The final bit of this part was fitting of the cockpit sides which are soft 1/8" balsa. The front edges needed a tiny bit of sanding to match the front decking and these too were wetted with water and glued in place. Again adhesive tape was used to hold them in the general position and pins used to fix firmly in place.

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Adrian

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited By Ady Hayward on 18/01/2015 22:35:35

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The website says it should be 6lb with a 6-1/2lb max. Although I feel there is a monster difference in 1/2lb at that level, a bit over 15% of the total! please advise me on this. The plan I downloaded was great to study, unfortunately the website is not updated all that regularly and so the wings in the instructions were foam. Also website says "good news, it's back in stock" then you go further into,the site and it says "sorry, sold out", ho hum! Still this is great to follow and look forward to the next progress photos. Top man Ady !

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When I build my hurricane from them it said it was intended for 52 4 strokes and should be about 6lbs. When built it was powered by an 80 and weighed almost 9lbs! while I was a bit inexperienced at the time and this did make it heavier I still feel this was too much difference between the plan and the finished article. Indeed the new specs for the hurricane quote engines/weight much closer to what I achieved.

Currently I am helping a young member of our club with this same hurricane kit and we are making a few mods. The engine/cowl etc is to be moved forward 10mm, the tail looks like a swiss cheese with lightening holes, the span is to be increased by using more scale wingtips, flaps will be added, the radio mounted further forward than I did, an ali spinner will be used to get weight forward and much lighter wheels will be used to minimise the change in c/g when they retract. With these mods I am confident of a lighter and much more friendly model.

It might sound like I am suggesting wardbirds kits aren't good and need loads of work but that's not the case. I learnt a lot building and flying that hurricane and enjoyed it very much. That is why I have recommended the kit to my young friend and, as luck would have it, have ended up with another which I plan to build myself....eventually

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Hi folks. I am sorry but it is a bit early to suggests the finished weight but so far the fuselage is quite similar to one of my own designs of similar span and that was under 6 lbs but was film covered. Most weight typically builds during the covering/ finishing process and instead of the brown paper favoured I will be using lightweight glass cloth and WBPU. I will be stating the weight at key stages so please keep watching.

Adrian

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