Peter Garsden Posted October 3, 2015 Author Share Posted October 3, 2015 You can see some of the overspray on the underside of the tail plane. I have put in some Savox servos for the V Tail which fit quite well, are digital, metal geared, and small. Again I had a problem with the diameter of the wire. I ordered some special small diameter outers which I managed to solder to secure them. Obviously the tail connection is not adjustable so I needed something which was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 The finish with the Tamya Paint is so much better without any varnish to gloss it up, anybody any idea why the previous paint peeled off? Edited By Peter Garsden on 04/10/2015 00:07:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Just one final shot of the receiver showing how the battery squeezes into the nose and the FR Sky Receiver at a cost of £23 instead of paying £60 for a pukka Futaba version - no brainer - available from T9 Hobby Sport. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 I'm loving that colour scheme Pete - very nice! As for the paint problem...no idea really. Some paints and top coats react badly, so I tend to stick to a set process and products that I know for sure are ok together. Even then, I have found that when a top sealing coat of varnish or lacquer is put on, if it's too thick, it will have the same effect as what you've seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 4, 2015 Author Share Posted October 4, 2015 Because I lined the fuselage with carbon as an extra layer, I was concerned that it would interfere with the signal from the receiver, so it was important to put the aerials out of the inner cone. I had to find a way of securing both wires so they were apart, but would not interfere with the closing of the outer cone. I have tried straws before but they are too big. I tried the inners of Sullivan plastic control cable which worked a treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Jones Posted October 4, 2015 Share Posted October 4, 2015 Peter, I think you may need to re-visit your aerial installation. Best practice says they should be at 90 degrees to each other and the way you have them now, if the model was up high and especially coming towards you, they would be completely shielded by the carbon between you and them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 Anyway can see the light at the end of the tunnel now. Final job before balancing and programming control throws onto the transmitter are the wing control rods for flap and aileron. Although I have in the past use bicycle spokes they are too flimsy for and F3F plane with the loads on the control surfaces and the speed it flies. My first F3F - the Willow had too flimsy connections and had aileron flutter - not good, so I decided to use stainless steel 2mm wire. I tried to find studding but couldn't source it. Anyone found any? I did manage to find 2mm wire which is supplied for r/c car axles. I thought I had ordered studding till it arrived - so annoying. Rather than waste it I decided to use threaded ends attached to a length of wire. How to attach the ends to the wire - well solder of course - wrong - stainless steel does not solder for love nor money. I used solder OK on the mild steel I used for the fuselage connectors you can see above, but could I solder the stainless -could I thump, so I have opted for 5 minute epoxy which I am sure will do - that is what I used on the Willow and it held fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 5, 2015 Author Share Posted October 5, 2015 The servo you can see above is a 13mm depth Hitec 85MG which is a great strong servo with lots of torque for flaps. There is enough depth in this wing to take something thicker than the 10mm thin wing Hitec 125MG used for the aileron where the wing is thinner. I had run out of the threaded ends and ordered some more, but thought I would use what I had in stock rather than wait for the order of Metal M2 Clevises and ends to arrive - impatience! So I made up a carbon rod with sleeving and a piece of stainless steel wire end crimped with my handy Z bend pliers - great tool and worth every penny. Used some fuel tube to keep the plastic clevis on so I am praying it will work OK - seems nice and tight with no flutter. I also applied loctite to the clevis brass bolt to make sure it doesn't work its way loose. Edited By Peter Garsden on 05/10/2015 23:25:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Jones Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Rather you than me with that set up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 I wouldn't trust either of the linkages in the last 2 photos, 2mm bike spokes with matching metal clevises would be preferable. Edited By PatMc on 07/10/2015 11:12:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 I would be inclined to use ball-links on the horn. Z link should be OK though Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted October 7, 2015 Share Posted October 7, 2015 Peter will you be praying just before every launch? Pin that last one to the wall with a note under it saying "Impatience" and make up new ones with metal pushrods, Z bends and a clevis/ball joint on the other end! You know it makes sense! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 Well, the new bits arrived from RC World - very good supplier, quick and good site. Anyway, I have replace the end which came off with a metal clevis, and tested it, and it seems to work fine. The problem when the control rods came apart was caused by me trying to get too much movement out of the Ailerons which were straining against the stops. Have also put the model together and it looks fine (I think that with fuel tubing to hold the plastic clevis tight and locktite on the screw it will be fine - no slop at all - however chaps you are all right of course. If and when it comes apart in flight (I don't think it will) I will put up a post on this - after all I am not competing in F3F competitions - just sport flying. Tried out the C of G and it needs 4oz of lead. There is a hole in the nose cavity inner which I completely filled with Liquid Gravity grains, and still not enough, so I will have to squeeze some, elsewhere but there isn't a lot of space. I plan to tape some lead to the side of the battery, so that I can take some off off to move the C of G back from 90mm to 93mm which is the plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Looking good Pete - bringing her to the Orme this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 For the price that's looking pretty appealing but the rivets part of me feels it's still missing a canopy, cockpit and pilot! I may have to try one to quieten the voices in my head! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Have to admit it is rather tempting... no no no no no - I don't do mouldies... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Posted by Martyn K on 09/10/2015 15:28:47: Have to admit it is rather tempting... no no no no no - I don't do mouldies... Well that's okay then - this isn't a mouldie! Balsa tail surfaces and veneered foam wing - just a traditional kit, really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 Ah.. that does make a difference then Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 Well maidened it this weekend. With some trepidation I chucked it off the Orme over the pier with no where to go if it didn't fly as it was a light ESE wind. Thankfully at 2.4metres there was plenty of lift and it flew fine. At first however there was some trimming and these issues I had to iron out. Too much elevator then I realised I had omitted to dial in any expo but had it for the aileron. Ironically the ailerons don't need it but the elevator does. Needed some right and uptrim, but once sorted it flew very fast considering it had no ballast. Wouldn't roll until I realised I had linked the ailerons with the rudder and the two were fighting against each other. One of the wing nuts disappeared into the fuselage and it will be a helluva job to get another one particularly as they are on a slight angle to follow the curve of the top of the wing. C of G seems fine. Was hairy landing with a lot of rotor even for a light wind. Couldn't get the ballast into the tube which needs filing back. May have to make special ones as I think they are about 2mm too long each, but not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Congratulations on a successful maiden, Peter! A promising start to what hopefully will be a long, fulfilling relationship. For aerobatics, I found that coupling a bit of flap in with the ailerons increased the roll rate significantly. Whilst F3F purists might find this model a little lacking, as a general slope aerobat I think it is excellent value. Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 13, 2015 Share Posted October 13, 2015 Well done Peter. A successful maiden and an interesting blog. M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 16, 2015 Author Share Posted October 16, 2015 When trying to dissassemble the Hammer, one of the wing nuts came out, and dropped into the fuselage, never to be seen again. In view of the ballast tube, it was not going to reappear, so how to get another in position. Well Ketih my mate devised a clever system to get a standard blind nut in. We cut the tabs off the nut, and cut one side off so it would fit in the slim fuselage then attached it to a piece of 1/32" Ply plate, did a trial fit, then glued it in with Gorilla Glue which obviously fills any gaps - worked a treat. Afterwards, I just snapped off the ply tab and unscrewed the bolt. Jobs a good'un. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob piec Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 Hi guys As I got quite a few emails in last months regarding the stock and most were after reading this thread - some good news - this Friday (4.12) Blejzyk is sending a big order - there is a few Hammers/Mefistos and Fauns up for grabs from it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Chantler Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Thanks Rob, have just ordered Hammer off website. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anton Huber Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Mine is flying in the meantime.... I fitted an electric drive from Reisenauer Some impression from one of the first flights https://youtu.be/IYDbBgTIR6k Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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