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Lucas's Ballerina


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Posted by Peter Miller on 19/12/2015 14:19:33:

I think that I want to cry!!!!

Why can't the pillock draw the plans right. He obviously doesn't know how to use his computer.

What really makes me furious is that when people build the models I get the blame for errors not the (words fail me) draughtsman who can't stick to the original drawing.

Peter, would it be possible to get a pdf file of your original plan. I would prefer to build your Ballerina, not the RCM&E draftman's....

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Posted by kc on 19/12/2015 12:28:21:

I am expecting ( well hoping ) that by moving the motor bulkhead forward about 1.75 inches on my model that a 4S 3000 lipo ( now able to move forward by that much ) will just about get the CG right without lead. And I have found a particularly light piece of balsa for the tailplane, fin and rudder. So I am expecting that your 4S2200 will not be sufficient weight- but I might be wrong!

kc, I am not putting much money on it either. If the CG end up too far back I have 3 options.

- open up the firewall so the battery can be placed partly in front of it.

- use a 4240 motor (50 gr. heavier)

- use a 3300mAh battery.

I have both 2200mAh and 3300mAh batteries, and will wait with ordering the motor until the model is build.

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Posted by john stones 1 on 19/12/2015 23:53:38:

I've my own parts cut ready, they may not be exact, and I may not fit them exactly in the right place, the plan may have a few minor error, but I will end up with a Ballerina wink relax lads it'll be o.k

John

I agree chaps - just take a deep breath - wait to the proper start date 1st Jan and calm down! Plan building ever was full of little gliches - its our job to accommodate and solve them. You're rushing ahead Lucas - worrying about stuff you haven't even got to yet! And if you follow the MB you won't get to them until someone has already found a "workround" - chill get ready for Chritmas. We start inJanuary!

BEB

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With the risk of incurring the wrath of BEB (although I seem to remember it was he who wrote that studying the plans is ok) another post showing more plan studying:

Removing weight up front will not help if the tail is not lightened too:

img_2225 (mobile).jpg

and

img_2226 (mobile).jpg

In additition I will try to use balsa for the turtledeck stringers. Will it help enough? Time will tell.

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I think it's all partof the plan building process. If we are to encourage new builders into this part of the hobby then this is lesson 1. Measure the part first to see that it fits it's intended position, or as I generally do, make three copies of the plan at your local copy shop and cut out the parts. You can then lay these in place to see if it fits. If not adjust as necessary. Keep one copy and build on the other.

I'll never forget building an Art Chester Jeep, I think it was Henry Haffke's design. If you followed the plan blindly, you found the cowling too small (and annoyingly beautiful) and the torque rods were impossible to fit. Many plans were drawn on a fag packet and then translated by the publishers way back when. A lot of models were built before the plans were drawn.

That said, in this day and age there is probably no reason why it should be wrong. I'm going to extraordinary lengths to get it right with my products but It's bl**dy hard work, the slightest details can throw something else off, so don't be too hard on the design dept.

Daren.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Started on cutting formers:

img_2281 (small).jpg

I have ply and light ply, but will have to wait for the package from Balsa Cabin for the Balsa parts.

It looks to me that the lines for the snakes do not conform to Peter's prototype (assuming that the snake for the elevator exits further away from the tail comared to the rudder snake). They do not fit with the holes on the formers either. Could it be that the lines are mirrored?

 

Edited By Lucas Hofman on 01/01/2016 21:10:18

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KC, I intend to have a ply mounting plate on 4 M4 threaded rods. The rods do not have to be in a square pattern, there by allowing for a little more space for the battery.

The motor mounting will then be bolted onto the mounting plate. THis way I get flexibility with regard to the motor used. (the mounting plate can be drilled after the whole fuselage is done. Most likely I will fly first without a cowl to find the best thrust line. My experience with pattern planes does indicate that playing with side and up/down thrust will make a plane fly straigther. Part of the fun to get the best out of every airframe!

As an illustration my Skywalker, that uses the same construction:

img_1944 (small).jpg

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HiAVC, it is a gram here and a gram there. I am not sure it will make much of a difference and will definetly make for more work. But heck, if one only wants to fly an ARF is the way to go (and I have a few of those too...).

I reckon if I think wrong and propose something silly with these small modifications someone on this forum will say so.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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