Lucas Hofman Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 At last all materials in the house: But then.... have the contents survived UK mail and Heathrow and Oslo ground handling? YES! All looking good. Kudo to both SLEC and Balsa Cabin for their packing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Great job they both did apparently, Lucas. ... but do you really need all that balsa for the Ballerina? What scale are you building, please? Happy bashing Chris BRU - BE / CTR Balsa Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 Chris, I wondered about the same. I have not counted yet nor compared with my order. Will not do so either. Most likely I have added 1 to all and ordered for both a build up and solid tail etc. Doesn't matter, some balsa in stock is always nice. And my Ballerina will be sized as printed in RCM&E. -17 degrees Celsius outside this morning. That should allow for some building time next week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 When my bundle of wood arrived I was a little shocked. It felt like I had enough to build a full size plane. You soon get through it though. Especially when you make as many cutting mistakes as me. 😞😞 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 15, 2016 Author Share Posted January 15, 2016 I did BeB's computations on where the batteri will be. The result is about 20 mm forward for F1 with a light motor and a small 2200mAh battery. If I manage to make the tail end about 20 gr. Lighter the battery moves to the right side of the firewall. I wil try that- the nose is narrow so it is nice to mount the motor-crosspiece with studs directly on the firewall. Will drill the firewall for both the 4240 and the 3542 motor. Much easier to do so before F1 is in the fuselage. Intend to make all formers tomorrow. I remember there was discussion about the holes for the snakes. What was the end result? And where was that nice drawing showing the exits on the fuselage sides again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 15, 2016 Share Posted January 15, 2016 Ah interesting! So with a lighter motor and smaller battery things start to move forward quite a bit! Not unexpected of course. Could you use a slightly heavier battery - that might help. But of course its nearly always better to make it lighter rather than heavier. BEB PS I think kc did the snake exit drawing? Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 15/01/2016 23:19:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 My drawing is here but it was done at an early stage and was based on the magazine plan. I built from a hand drawn plan which Peter kindly sent me ( lucky me ! ) so I built from the same plan as Peter not from the magazine plan. Also I made an error in not putting the rear ply doubler underneath F10 so changing the thickness of fuselage at F10 by total of 1/16 inch ( approx1.5mm) So the measurements of my fuselage may not work with other fuselages or with the formers from the magazine plan. However measuring my fuselage I found in practice the drawings I did should be amended to Left side ( elevator) - when viewed upright and facing direction of flight - centre of slot is 17mm down from tailplane and is 25mm long and finishes 70mm from fuselage end right side ( rudder) 40mm down and 25mm long finish 65mm from fus end. Note that here I measured the slot centre while my drawing measured to the slot top ( a difference of half the snake diameter so about 3mm ) I found it very difficult to enlarge the slots in the ply once installed, so I suggest making the slots generous in length in the ply, and actual 25mm in the easily worked balsa to allow a neat finish when filed to required size. Edited By kc on 16/01/2016 18:00:08 Edited By kc on 16/01/2016 18:04:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted January 16, 2016 Share Posted January 16, 2016 The reason for the above measurement being so different to my original drawing is that the magazine plan shows the elevator joiner along the rudder hinge line. Peter has clarified somewhere that this was an error by the draughtsman! The tailplane actually butts up to F10 and therefore the elevator joiner goes throgh the fuselage slot instead of rudder gap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 At last a full evening in the workshop! Not really needed to build a plane off course, but a joy to work with and worth the money. With the little usage it gets it will last my lifetime! The evenings results: See if I can make the sides this evening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Motor mount will be more or less like this: This is an Avistar converted to elektro. Cannibalised to use the motor for the Ballerina. If you have access to a lathe make the standofs from thicker AL staff (8-10mm dia, and drill a 3.2mm hole through them for the bolts). A lathe makes it easier to make them an exact length with square ends. By the way, this Avistar was extremely noisy, and that was with a balanced propeller. I have never found out why. Could it be the very elastic motor mount? Or the lack of the cowling, leading to the sides vibrating due to propeller vortexes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Great start, Lucas. I still have to read the manual for the scroll saw though. Getting a bit jealous about the lathe as well. Must remember that one when my birthday comes along... Happy lathing Chris BRU - BE / CTR Manuals Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Hi Lucas, Thanks for sharing this build, very interesting and entertaining. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 To Chris: I do not have a lathe, but I have a friend who..... Another tip to those who have even less building experience than me: the picture below shows how to sand 90 degrees angles to parts: by holding your sanding block against the 2x4 block and the part on top you always get 90 degree angles. I made all sanding blocks using this howto.There is a lot good information on that site. A little over-seriously in its presention, but anyway. Happy sanding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 I can recommend 3M remount spray for gluing templates but also for gluing balsa temporarily together to make to parts exactly alike: It sticks enough that your template does not move and it easily removable. The little remains are quickly cleaner by 3M cleaner (citrus bases - smells good!). I bought the stuff at Staples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I like the hollow stand off, not so many nuts to worry about coming loose John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daren Graham - Cambria Funfighters Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I've used spray mount for this for many years it's great. Also you can make sanding blocks of all shapes and sizes out of 1/2" block and fix the sandpaper to the block with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 22, 2016 Author Share Posted January 22, 2016 A little further every day. Glued the reinforcements to the fuselage sides: Used 3M Display Mount permanent for this. Worked very well on a test piece, we have to see whether it will stand the test of time in the fuse. While this is drying start with the tail surfaces (hurray for a big building board): Cutting sticks and pinning them in place is very pleasant work on a late and cold January night! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 Starting on putting the fuselage together: I included this pictures because it shows a way to keep thing at a 90 degree angle. Using clamps does often not work wel because of the weight of the clamps. By the way, take a good look at the picture above and spot the mistake. Quite embarrassing really. I found out after 20 minutes, and the PVA glue was setting but it was possible to get the firewall off and glue it on again right side up... The last picture shows building weigths I made from ssteel hotgun bullets. I got 2 kg from a gun-loving collegue (yes, in Texas) who makes his own ammunition.. Note the square at the tial (thanks to whoever it was to point out to check here for alignment between the sides). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 24, 2016 Author Share Posted January 24, 2016 When the fuselage is setting the fin takes form: Very colourfull, clean and pleasant work! That's it for this weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 24, 2016 Share Posted January 24, 2016 It's only an error once glues dry Lucas, till then it's just oops John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 25, 2016 Author Share Posted January 25, 2016 Posted by Percy Verance on 24/01/2016 21:53:10: You're learning fast Lucas. Always check twice, glue once! I sometimes feel I will never learn... - this is not the first build (and probably not the last silly mistake either) However, the nice thing of building in wood is that nearly any mistake can be corrected in not too much time - it often is more damaging to the ego than to the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 An hour last night. I like this way of constructing parts: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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