john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Those infills tie it all in nicely, not my favourite job building fuzzs John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Using some transfer tape I drew a template of one half of the tail plane/elevator and transferred it to the jointed 1/4 sheets, then flipped it over about the center line and marked the other half. I did a little bit of shaping on the elevators tapering them down to 1/8th from the hinge line to the trailing edge then separated them by cutting along the hinge line. I made a joiner from piano wire and drilled the holes in the elevators. The piano wire was let into the leading edge of the elevators so it was flush. I then hinges the rudder and elevators using these pinned hinges. I like them because they don't work against the servos like mylar hinges do. Mylar hinges can be fitted by just cutting a slit with a scalpel but these hinges are a lot thicker and need an actual slot to push into. If you don't have one I recommend a hinge slotting tool! The hinge center position is marked on the balsa then the dividing jig is placed on the edge and closed up, automatically centering on the balsa. The forked tool is then used in the centering jig to start the slot. The jig pretty much keeps it parallel to the balsa but care should be taken not to let it drift off course. The fork cuts the slot at the ends and leaves the center ready to be removed with the hooked gouge. By inserting the gouge at the ends of the slot and levering the point towards the middle the remaining balsa can be removed to the full depth of the hinge. The pinned hinge can then be inserted into the slot and the control surfaces trial fitted together. The pin sticking out at 90 degrees from the hinge is pushed into the balsa along with one side of the hinge during final assembly so that it can't fall out during flight! Rudder and fin were also hinged. Tail plane and fin are now ready for covering before gluing the hinges in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 With the fuselage close to the sanding stage I don't want any dents in the wood so I set up the model stand to hold it whilst working on the snakes The hole positions in the formers were transfered to the bottom of the fuselage and a 2' rule used to line them up and mark the exit position at the tail. The depth of the last hole in F10 was measured from the bottom of the fuze and also tranfered to the exit position. A slot was cut and then filed at an angle to suit the snakes position then both snakes fitted through the fuselage, adjusting the position of the hole to ensure the straightest run possible. Finally some 20 minute epoxy was mixed up and the snake outers glued in position to the formers. Whilst I had some epoxy mixed I also ran some around the T nuts for the engine mounts and into the plywood between them. Whilst the epoxy dries I have taken the opportunity to make a coffee and update this blog! Next up, sheeting the underside of the fuselage and setting up servo mounts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 He's building quicker than I can read John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Looking great Chris. Very neat. 👌 Any advice on drilling the holes in the elevator half's for the joiner wire? The woods not all that thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 I use a drill bit between my fingers & thumb and go carefully, checking the drill bit is square to the edge and face! I also hold the balsa either side of the hole with my other hand between finger and thumb and "feel" the drill going through, adjusting the angle if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 I use any left over epoxy to fuel proof the lower areas of the tank bay during the build.. Less waste and saves fuel proof exercise later on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Posted by Low pass Pete on 18/01/2016 06:46:16: I use any left over epoxy to fuel proof the lower areas of the tank bay during the build.. Less waste and saves fuel proof exercise later on. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 I see in your pics of the t/plane seat in the post showing the stringer infils, you cut as plan, later on it looks like you recut as the later mod ? How you gonna get the elevators in through the fin fillets ? have you left the wire joiner unglued, cut a slot, or have you an ingenious method you're not sharing ? I like to glue the joiner whilst elevators are pinned down to ensure they're level and that's why I'm asking. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 John. I'll probably fit the tail plane first with the joiner loose. fit the fin & fillets then glue in the hinges and joiner to the elevators, clamping some wood to the tailplane on each side of the fin to level the elevators, finally gluing in the rudder. Maybe. I couldn't post an update last night as for some reason I couldn't upload any photos, just kept on getting connection to server timed out! I added the center sheeting and rib caps with the wing pinned to the bench and supported on the 2" support. This prevents the sheeting inadvertently pulling and warping the wing as the glue dries. The small balsa stripper is ideal for cutting up balsa scraps to make the rib caps Whilst the sheeting was drying I added the cross grain sheeting to the fuselage and installed the servos. I left the snake outers long so I had an option to install the servos in front or behind the F4 former. With the engine up front it appears at the moment that it may be heading towards nose heavy so I fitted the servos behind f4. The servos are mounted on a couple of 3/8 x 1/4 spruce let into 1/8 doublers glued to the fuselage sides. As just mentioned to get an idea of balance the tank and engine were fitted and after fuel proofing the inside of the tank area the bottom of the nose was sheeted with 1/8th hard balsa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Tonight I decided to have a play with my tips, after reading how much fun other people were having with their tips. I think Peter is very good at drawing up a nice curvy pair of tips.... and now I've run out of tip puns! Looking at the plan the tip ribs just don't work so I only used it to cut the outlines of the tips. I then used the cross section drawings to mark the position of the tips on the last rib and cut the wedges to suit. I realised the last part rib cannot be simply glued to the last rib as the tip would have to be cut out around it so I cut out the middle where the tip will sit and glued that to the tip and wedges forming a square corner. I also rebated the trailing edge of the tips to fit under the rib capping The tips were then glued to the last full rib using aliphatic on the part rib and cyano on the edges of the tip and wedges. I had left the false leading edge on the wing long so that it coule be glued to the leading edge of the wing tips. The trailing edge of the tip sits nicely up to the rib capping. With a little more sanding the leading edge sheeting was cut and sanded to fit the wing tips. The curve of the wing means that the sheeting is not square cut to join the rest of the sheeting but is more of a slight curve. A bit of fitting and sanding should get a nice joint. Once happy with the fit the lower tip sheeting is glued on with aliphatic, pins and pegs. Finally, an OCD photo for John! Although it's late I may finish my coffee and pop out to the workshop to flip the wing over and glue up the top tip sheeting tonight then the glue will be dry for tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whatgoesup.... Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 That makes a lot more sense of building the wing tip Chris, - really informative blog and great looking build ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Hi Chris. Can I ask, I've noticed your investing your engine on this build, do 4 strokes run fine upside down? I'm new to 4 strokes and am still trying to find the best way to instal my engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Hi Craig I am also inverting my engine (OS52 4 stroke). I do not have problems with inverted engines but you should make sure that the tank level is suitable. In the case of Ballerina I have made the cut-out in F2 larger so the tank can be installed lower than per the plan. By inverting the engine it also means that the throttle linkage is simpler (see photo no 1 below). Some engines do however have problems upside down but my OS engine rarely have an issue with being upside down. Would suggest that if possible to test run (on bench) to see if your selected engine is OK inverted. If not plan to run it at 90deg. Hope that is helpful. Regard Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I'm really wondering why I had to decide to join this year's MB, Chris... Before springtime will be around, you guys will have your maiden at this tempo... and I will be left alone around here still struggling - all summer & autumn - how to make a straight scrollsaw cut... not even thinking how I will be able to use the balsa stripper before next winter ! Anyway, great build blog & truly pedagogic. Love it. And, please have some more OCD pics coming for John... and me. Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR OCD Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I wouldn't worry about being left behind MCG. The way I'm going I'll still be at it in June. Time is my enemy at the moment. As for your build Chris. Looking at all your picture makes me a little envious. When I look at my wing it's a far cry from yours. I'm sure mine will fly, eventually but it's not gonna be the prettiest I don't think. Can I just say that I think your tips and the roundest most pert tips I've seen in a long while. . 😂😂😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Posted by Craig Thomas on 20/01/2016 08:11:31: Hi Chris. Can I ask, I've noticed your investing your engine on this build, do 4 strokes run fine upside down? I'm new to 4 strokes and am still trying to find the best way to instal my engine. I find four strokes seem to run a bit better inverted for some reason. The only problems I've come across is when the fuel tank is a lot higher than the carb and it starts to flood the carb with fuel. Incidently the bottom of my fuel tank is 25mm from the bottom of the fuselage, a lot lower than the cut out in F2. Other than that there are no problems. Two strokes are different in that the glow plug can get drowned in fuel before starting and when at idle and need a blast of throttle to clear them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Posted by McG 6969 on 20/01/2016 09:23:11: I'm really wondering why I had to decide to join this year's MB, Chris... Before springtime will be around, you guys will have your maiden at this tempo... and I will be left alone around here still struggling - all summer & autumn - how to make a straight scrollsaw cut... not even thinking how I will be able to use the balsa stripper before next winter ! Anyway, great build blog & truly pedagogic. Love it. And, please have some more OCD pics coming for John... and me. Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR OCD Control There's no deadline for completion or any rush to even complete the build this year! Please don't worry about when other Ballerinas are finished as most of us will still be here following the blogs and answering any questions. The important thing is that you enjoy the build and have the sense of acheivement of flying the model you built, not just assembled or bought. I had to look up pedagogic, and you're most welcome. It's one of the reasons many of use still do the mass builds! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Posted by Craig Thomas on 20/01/2016 11:05:37: I wouldn't worry about being left behind MCG. The way I'm going I'll still be at it in June. Time is my enemy at the moment. As for your build Chris. Looking at all your picture makes me a little envious. When I look at my wing it's a far cry from yours. I'm sure mine will fly, eventually but it's not gonna be the prettiest I don't think. Can I just say that I think your tips and the roundest most pert tips I've seen in a long while. . 😂😂😂 Just build to the standard you're happy with. If the best you can do in the beginning is covered with glue & bits of sawdust then that's fine if it's the best you can do. Nobody is born knowing how to do these things, they all come from experience and watching others. And I'm very flattered you like my tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Only slight problem to an inverted engine is your glow clip, you might like to fit a remote glow lead, makes life a bit easier. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Yes and no to using a remote glow clip. It would depend on the access to the glow plug. For non scale I usually try to have direct access to the plug from below. There are a number of remote glows that are not so great. I usually use a Hangar 9 one as I have found these to be very good. However with a sport model I try to avoid them so to make things as simple and stupid as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 I've not seen any rough looking builds so far, others photo's always make their models look better than your own. Chris is a good builder who's built a few before, and he no doubt has built up his tool collection and that makes things easier to get the build quality up. Can I cut a straight line with the scroll saw ? Yes but I cut outside the line n sand it up. I use these cheap tools from Screwfix etc. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Yep you'll need access to your plug whichever way you go Pete Not a fan of complicating things either, but with a small model sometimes floors a bit near or glow start's too long. Or you could go lecky John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Posted by john stones 1 on 20/01/2016 19:44:41: I've not seen any rough looking builds so far, others photo's always make their models look better than your own. and it helps if you only photo the good bits, or wait until the messy bits are covered over (not that I'd ever try anything like that ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 As John has mentioned above the downside to an inverted engine is access to the glow plug for starting and more importantly the safety issues getting the glow starter off after the engine has fired up! As I have an aversion to personal injury I am fitting a remote glow lead, but will retain the ability to un plug the lead to apply a glow starter directly to the glow plug if required. There are basically two types of plug on the leads, a clip and a sprung cap. I prefer the cap as there's no chance of it shorting out on the engine. The sprung cap is fitted to the glow plug The black/earth lead is bolted to the engine mount and the remote plug connector mounted in a more accessible place, in my case it will be through a hole on top of the cowl. If the remote lead doesn't have a black/earth wire the metal mounting bracket must be mounted to a metal part of the engine. I've also ordered a 90 degree elbow for the exhaust to keep it tight to the engine and exiting more on the center line of the fuselage. Tonights building work involved making the ailerons. Just like the wing I pinned the 1/16 parts to the plan but also pinned the opposite aileron alongside. The leading edge and ribs were glued down and the cap strips added. Finally the hinge blocks and horn mounting plate were glued in and the ailerons released from the board, trimmed and sanded flush. I planed the chamfers on the leading edges to give slightly more aileron deflection than required as it's much easier to simply reduce the throws than it is to try and increase then when covered! The ailerons were taped in place and the wing plus servos weighed. The tail surfaces were then added to the fuselage which was also weighed. 1544g (3.4lb) so far minus rx battery, rx, cowl, prop, spinner, tail fairings, under carriage and covering. A quick assembly also indicated that it's currently nose heavy with a CoG 30mm from the leading edge. Well that's my excuse for pinning the parts together to see what it looks like! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.