David's Standard Ballerina

[David Hayward.]

Well I thought I would throw my hat into the ring and join the mass build having come back to the hobby last October after 25 years away. I have recently built a Pegasus Boomerang and a Middle Phase, both from kits and wanted to now build a model from scratch. Something I have only done twice in the past all those years ago when I built a Pronto trainer and a Spirit low wing aerobatic model which was too advanced for me really at the time.

So I bought some wood etc. and started to plan the build, where I found the ‘preparing for the 2016 mass build’ forum useful particularly in identifying some of the discrepancies that crept in between Peter’s original drawing and that finally released as the free plan. This enable me and others too I image to avoid at least some of the errors when starting to build.

[David Hayward.]

This will be a standard build with no significant modifications (or should I say no planned modifications!) using a Saito FA40; just have to have a picture…..

[David Hayward.]

This is not as detailed as some of the other excellent build blogs, but it’s nice to join in and offer what I can and perhaps also receive some useful feedback if anyone feels inclined.

Taking a step forward from the pile of wood, the first thing I did was to build myself a ‘Peter Miller’ building board comprising of 4’ x 1’ of conti board from B&Q covered with a double layer of 3mm cork tiles from Wickes. Immediately putting this to one side I set about cutting out all the formers ribs, tailplane, fin, fuselage sides etc. using a coping saw for the ply parts and a scalpel for the balsa.

Here’s a few of the parts…

[David Hayward.]

With most of the parts cut out I started to put the fuselage together and here you can see the two sides are now joined with F1 – F6 plus the cockpit deck.

[David Hayward.]

I don’t have a jig but I marked the centre of each former, drew a straight line on the building area of my bench, anchored the fuselage with weights at the front and middle positions and then pulled the rear together and glued.

All lined up fine, added the front turtle decking and snake outers; I didn’t think the holes in the formers as marked on the plan lined up very well but that may have been me. (probably was).

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Nice piece of art work for the front end David, fuzz looks spot on

John

[David Hayward.]

Thanks John, just followed Peter's instructions.

[Craig Thomas]

The fuse is coming on nicely Dave. Good progress. I'm a first time scratch builder as well, it really is quite enjoyable. I've tackled the wing first. Great little engine you have for the front. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[David Hayward.]

Hi Percy, you are right about the tailplane, actually it was me I believe who first raised this with Peter; you will see the next image coming up shortly will feature the mod to the fuselage. but thank you for your feedback, just what I am hoping for.

[David Hayward.]

Next came the spruce spars for which I temporarily stuck a paper template to the front and rear formers to line up the spars correctly; well almost correctly, the gaps vary a little but not enough to worry about.

[Peter Miller]

Yes, tailplane butts up against F-10.

Don't ask because I don't know. I do have my own opinions though

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Lots of plans have errors on em, even some big expensive scale ones, look on it as preparation for future builds.

Nieuport 17 I built had 4 sheet plan, on top wing panels one was 3/8" bigger than the other, I only found out when measuring to glue the tail on.

John

[David Hayward.]

For some reason I found the engine cowling a little bit challenging just in terms of getting it clear in my head exactly how to go about it and I think mine has varied just slightly from what Peter did but it seems to have turned out ok.

I also think I did not quite interpret the plan correctly for the front turtle deck which should have overhung into the cockpit, however I managed to add this as an extra and it seems to blend in ok.

[Peter Miller]

Very neat cowling with beautiful cut aways round the engine.

I won't dare bring mine to Greenacres!!!

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[David Hayward.]

I was thinking of applying sanding sealer first inside the cowl and then painting with some Flair Spectrum paint and finally fuel proofer on the top for good measure. Externally it will be a polyester covering. Any thoughts?

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

H.K covering is good and cheap as well

John

[AndyD]

my stringers vary more than i would of liked but whose goin to measure them,lovely build and welcome.

[David Hayward.]

John, what is H.K. covering?

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Hobby King David, good stuff strong as Profilm

John

[David Hayward.]

Thanks John

[David Hayward.]

I am using a Slec tank and so needed to make the opening in F3 slightly deeper. After fuel proofing the tank area I formed a snug fit with foam using impact adhesive to hold it in place, so the tank is removable and held securely in position by the foam.

Servo bearers also glued in position after test fitting with a servo.

[David Hayward.]

Construction of the first wing is under way and looks pretty much like everyone else's....

[David Hayward.]

The first half of the wing has progressed enough to remove it from the board and make way for the second half.

Now the bad news, on starting to build the second half I made a schoolboy error and forgot to include the 1/16 cap strip under the the rear spar adjacent to the aileron. All spars and ribs glued and then I realised my error. I lifted it off the board but was not happy that it was going to be right to just glue the cap strip on.

I thought I was going to have to cut all new ribs however before finally scrapping the wing built so far I decided to try and take it apart. I had used pva glue and so tried holding one of the joints under running water; this had the desired effect of softening the glue and enabling me to gently open the joint. It would have been a lengthy process to do this to each and every joint so I put 1/2" of water in the bath and popped the wing in to soak for about 3-5 minutes. This softened all the bottom joints which then came apart so I turned it over to soak the top to release the top spar.

Carefully dried off all the pieces with a towel and then left to dry slowly for 24 hours. While I had this interruption I built a bench for the spare bedroom as I had been using the dinning room table as the garage is too damp and plans tend to grow by a significant amount.

Well it appears to have been a success, no ill effects on the wood as far as I can tell, so back to building the second part of the wing for the second time......and paying attention this time!