Acro Wot mk2 artf electric advice plz

[Tom Ling]

Hi everyone, could anyone recommend or help me make a set up for an Acro wot mk2 please I'm going electric with it and I would like a bit of speed and vertical power.

I'm happy to go 5-6 cell and a 60-80 size speed controller as I would be able to put it in other models in the future, but I can not work out what motor to go for, Im still new to the electric side of things but I love chucking a battery in my acro wot Foam E and would now like to go a bit bigger and faster, many thanks Tom.

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

Well Tom, no one seems to be stepping up to this one - so I'll have a go! I can't specifically advise about the AcroWot, but I can tell you the typical set up I use for a hgh performance aerobatic model of that size - in particular I'll tell you the set up I use in my Wots Wot. A similar set up would work well with the AcroWot I believe.

Motor - I'm using an AXI Goldline 4120/20 kV 465. OK, this is an expensive motor - but it is a excellent piece of kit. It will power your AcroWot and last to power two or three more models after that! But if you really don't want to spend that sort of money then something like this would be the economy choice. (although note that motor would need a 5s battery)

ESC - You'll want a 70-75Amp ESC. Something like this would do.

Battery - I use a 6s 3000mAh (will give you about 8 minutes aerobatic flying) or a 6s 5000mAh (will give you about 10-11 minutes) with my AXI set up. You could use a 5s but your current draw might be higher then.

Prop - I find that between a 14x6 and 15x10 or so gives a good range of performance on this set up. The first yields better pick up and acceleration, while the second gives higher top speeds - you pays your money etc.,..... Remember ALWAYS check with a power meter before committing to full throttle on any set up!

Hope this helps!

BEB

Edited By Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator on 23/03/2016 22:11:56

[Bob Cotsford]

Alternately this HK SK3 is the one I've got in my .60 size Curare and it pulls that along nicely on a 12*10 or 12*12 using 6S 4000 packs. A HK 80 A esc and a separate LiFe receiver pack makes up the full kit.

[AndyD]

4max do a good sport setup 5055-580 on 5s 70 a esc 14x7 prop,ive got that setup on a sebart sukhoi and a simalar setup in my 120% ballerina,plenty of power,go on his site and look under setups or customers models.

[Allan Bowker]

It's always worth looking at Andy Green's Model Database or his Electric Flight Database

There is an AcroWot MkII listed but IC and not Electric
Maybe you could contribute your final electric setup?

 

Edited By Allan Bowker on 24/03/2016 14:59:16

[Chris Lee123]

Tom what setup did you go with in the end? Im thinking of of getting the balsa acrowot if/ when my foam e version dies.

[Tomtom39]

I used the SII Scorpion 3026-890Kv with 70Amp esc in my case Hacker pro spin with 14X7 APCE prop on three cells 850 W (I used a 4500 Mah ) and on 4 cell I got just under 1100 W on 12X 6 APCE I could prop hang it . Average duration 81/2 mins with at least 30% left on batteries (less if you are a throttle jockey!)

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

I've lieterally just finished converting an "old" IC AcroWot to electric - well last week,.

6 cell, 3000mAh, 50A ESC, OS OMA 5020-490 (over kill really but its what i had). Propped it down using a 13x5 so giving around 900W. I'm getting 10 mins mixed aerobatics with 40% left in the battery!!

BEB

[Chris Lee123]

I was hoping to use my heli packs which are 6s 5000, a bit heavy? Whats the biggest pack that will fit?

Edited By Chris Lee 1 on 04/06/2016 20:04:43

[MattyB]

Posted by Tomtom39 on 04/06/2016 16:47:01:

I used the SII Scorpion 3026-890Kv with 70Amp esc in my case Hacker pro spin with 14X7 APCE prop on three cells 850 W (I used a 4500 Mah ) and on 4 cell I got just under 1100 W on 12X 6 APCE I could prop hang it . Average duration 81/2 mins with at least 30% left on batteries (less if you are a throttle jockey!)

Really? Running the numbers both those setups look to be over the maximum currents (70A) for both ESC and motor. It may be ok with careful throttle management, but personally I would have gone for a higher voltage, lower Kv, lower current setup which would definitely be more efficient overall and probably be easier on your batteries in the long run.

Edited By MattyB on 04/06/2016 22:00:21

[Robin Kearney]

Hi Tom,

I've converted my ARTF Balsa Acro Wot to electric, using a Hobby King G46 motor, 15x8 prop, 5s 4000mAh pack and a 70A speed controller. I bought a ESC without a ubec, so I also have a small nimh pack to power the radio.

I get 7 or so minutes with about 30% left in the packs. Performance wise, well it used to be powered by an OS 81 Alpha four stroke, and I'd say the electric setup has more power than that.

r

[Chris Lee123]

Has any one got any pictures of how and where the battery goes in / out?

[Jason Hyland]

I'd be really interested in some photo as well. I just picked up the acrowot package from 4-max, but there are zero instructions on using the EP conversion kit supplied. I guess it may be obvious to some

[Chris Lee123]

I'll take some tonight and see If I can upload them for you.

Although mine has been modified for larger packs.

They go in the slot you need to cut out just under the motor then, mount the tray mount inside and bolt the slider to that.

I can't use the tray as my packs are too large. The instructions for the EP kit are in the instructions for the acrowot.

[Chris Lee123]

http://www.ripmax.com/Instructions/a-cf006.pdf

Page 8 on the PDF or Page 16 in the manual.

[Jason Hyland]

Posted by Chris Lee123 on 28/07/2016 13:15:43:

http://www.ripmax.com/Instructions/a-cf006.pdf

Page 8 on the PDF or Page 16 in the manual.

You beauty

[Jason Hyland]

I can't use the tray as my packs are too large. The instructions for the EP kit are in the instructions for the acrowot.

Wot a numpty, how did I miss that

[Chris Lee123]

we all do it from time to time.

[Jason Hyland]

Hi Guys,

My build is progressing but I could do with some suggestions about how to complete the battery mounting plate. I'm not entirely sure how the items A,B and C should be constructed. The manual suggests

"Glue the spacer and top plate to the mounting plate as shown – do not use excessive glue as the angled section of the battery plate must be able to slide freely in and out of the box section that has been created".

I think the top plate is "B", mounting plate is "A, and the spacer is "C" ? I think I should glue C on A then B on C, if you see what I mean?

Any suggestions ?

Thanks, Jason

[Colin Carpenter]

Jason. Correct. Strap battery onto tray and slide tongue down and bolt down . Simple and works fine but just ensure bolt is tight. Colin

[Capt Kremen]

How are you chaps fitting 5 & 6 cell LiPo packs into your Acro Wotties?

Initially, I fitted the designated ply tray, (at the sloping angle), could only just squeeze a 4 cell pack in. Model flew but was very 'sluggish' to say the least.

Subsequently managed to get a 5-cell LiPo in AND firmly secured with velcro straps. This required installing the battery before fitting the wing though.

Have now removed the ply tray but the 5 cell packs still will not 'slide' in with wing on unless surgery to the rear of the g/f cowling is undertaken. AND that still leaves the fiddle of safely securing the pack once it's installed.

So how does a 5 (or 6) pack go easily into a Wot? Photos would be useful if possible.

Cheers. CK

[Richard Ashworth]

I could see the same problem before I started on the tray but dealt with as follows.

I cut out a section of the lower cowl, Dremel milling cylinder, rounded corners slightly wider than tray but not as wide as removable hatch cover which slips in about 5mm under the back edge of the uncut cowl sides and will stop it coming out if it ever came loose in flight. This allows the battery on a sled strapped on with insulation tape, to go in as parallel to the tray as possible.

Overlander 4s 4250 depth 34, width 41, length 133 easy fit, but for progression to 5s 41,41,133 I have shaved a couple or mms off the former over the tray, mid battery. Clearance checked by trying to install the 4s on its side.

6 trouble free flights so far, the 50mm wide, 20 mm deep opening left when the hatch cover is in place seems to allow more cooling air in as the battery has come out of the plane stone cold after all flights so far, the opening in the underneath behind the wing will prevent pressure build up inside the fuz.

Other than that everything went together as per the instructions and a bit of thinking before each step (1st make, all bolt together foamies previously). Only non instruction work needed, 3 hours with covering iron sticking everything down, 2 hrs before first flight then another hour after it sat in sun and every bit not already smoothed, shrunk etc bubbled or went slack!

Be prepared!

[og]

my set up for acrowot artf bought last week, i use 5s lipos, t didnt purchase the electric tray pack, hope it helps

[Glenn Philbrick]

I have just completed conversion of an I C acro wot to electric as an experiment. I have another IC woty powered by an OS 90 Fs which balanced without extra lead. The electric one I will have to put a load of lead in to balance it which should not e problem.

I am running a Turnigy G60 500kv motor with a 70 controller and using two zippy 25c 4000mah battery packs in series to give me 6S. I have run it all up and get 45A at around 800w but my pack only lasts for a couple of minutes, have I got something wrong.Is there a spreadsheet or calculation to nput watts current and battery pack to determine the duration.I also had to set the controller voltage cut off to low as it keeps cutting out before full throttle.

Thanks

Glenn

[Richard Ashworth]

Hi Glenn

What prop are you using?