Lucas Hofman Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 balance area's on the moving bits decrease loads on the stick on full size planes. We have servo's that are (scalewise) very powerfull so it does not matter for the flying characteristics. So for us it is purely esthetics (which is not the same as unimportant, but it does open for personal taste) That is the fun of a MB. All models are the same but at the same time all are different! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Nice build so far John. I'm nowhere near the tailplane/fin yet so am following yours with interest. The plan supplied to me suggested that fin and tailplane are covered with ply which is not the case. The laser parts even included these ply parts. Very confusing at first so this is where all the blogs are so helpful. As my build has a lump of a 4 stroke up front I feel weight at the rear end will not be as critical as perhaps for you leccy builders So far I think I may be the only one going IC route?? Anyone else out there??? Cheers Peter Edited By Low pass Pete on 09/02/2017 08:10:20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Ballinger Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 I was just about to comment on the same thing as I check through the plan/wood pack. Definitely got tailplane and rudder shaped ply bits which never seemed to make the final build. Guess the open structure feel won the day. Sure the ply will come in for something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Ply only go's where horns and tailwheel go, it'll come in handy for another job. Can't make my mind up Peter, i said lecky but a 4 stroke is tempting Fin and rudder is staying as is, overall shape is the same. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 You can see i've rounded the flat bit on elevator a bit, just personal taste. Rear of elevator ribs feathered in, not sure if they should've been left proud to give a rib effect but happy with it. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 9, 2017 Author Share Posted February 9, 2017 Rudder complete and weighed tail/elevators. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 9, 2017 Share Posted February 9, 2017 Posted by john stones 1 on 08/02/2017 06:59:08: Thank you gents Tailplane done, nice n stiff/strong, what's yours weigh in at ? John I am sure both are a lot lighter then the prototype. Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 10, 2017 Share Posted February 10, 2017 You will get the rib effect John as - since the "ribs" are a bit rounded - the film will slightly shrink down showing the "ribs". Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2017 Author Share Posted February 10, 2017 Not done anything today, weighed fin/rudder, not worried about it being tail heavy it looks good to me. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 11, 2017 Share Posted February 11, 2017 It does John. Will you do a snake or pull-pull to the rudder? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 17, 2017 Author Share Posted February 17, 2017 Snakes with wire inners i think Lucas. Had a break but back on it now, wingtips next before i glue the fuzz up. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Snakes with wire inners? What is the function of the outers then? F3A models typically have pull-pull to the rudders but I have never seen outers around the wire, except for a few cm. at the exits. Or do I misunderstand you John. Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 Piano wire inners (push rods) Lucas, i'm not keen on the plastic ones. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Now I understand. No pull-pull. What do you have against the plastic ones John. I have used both piano wire, plastic (profiled) and carbon rod and fine the metal inners lead to re-trimming when the temperature changes. Never had any failures with any of them. Have you John? Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 No, no failures, just prefer piano wire, solder a clevice on one end and adjust from outside only, nothing can undo and no need for lock nuts, temperature's constant where i live Lucas....never hot enough John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Ballinger Posted February 18, 2017 Share Posted February 18, 2017 Watch out for rust though ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 My pushrods move too much to get rusty Glue tips on before i join the panels, 1/4 n 1/8 gussets (can you say gussets on here) cut them oversize then sand it all up. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Clever to let the leading edge extend over the tip John!. Much more solid this way. Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 It is Lucas, that's how the plan shows it so i can't claim the credit. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Marked the fuzz out for the formers, 2mm trebler for wing seat and 1/4 sq for the top, not a lot of fun cutting ply formers out is it John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucas Hofman Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 You get paid for the effort when all stringers just fall in place, evenly spaced and symmetrical, on the turtledeck John. But you are right in that these formers have many internal holes which is a nuisanse. Lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Ballinger Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 I'm sure you won't but don't forget the front top formers and cowl bottom which are all drawn undersize. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 I've noted the errors that've been pointed out by you lads Tim John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Bit more progress today 3/16 stringers on the fuzz instead of the 1/4, might make it easier to pull the rear end in, i don't fancy the ammonia route, ready to join up when dry. I've been given a Slec jig as well John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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