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Who wants a Warbird Replics Hurricane?


David Davis
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  • 1 month later...

I did some power tests today. The motor I'm using is an E-max GT 4020/07, KV=620. My plan is to use 6 cells, although at that KV value, 5 may be better to give a larger prop.
Test 1 with a 11x7 master prop gave took 36.5A, so around 800W.
Test 2 with a 13x6.5 APC-E prop took 52A and around 1100W.
Test 3 with a 12x6 Graupner grey prop took 45A and around 950W.

I hadn't got an RPM sensor hooked up, but I'd estimate test 1 at around 11000RPM. As I was using a 4-cell and a 2-cell in series (3000mAh), I didn't have a full voltage reading either, although the 4-cell (quite old) showed between 14.6 and 14 V.

I'm tempted with the 11x7 and 800W at the moment, although a 12x6 may look better.

Mike

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Mike, great looking job on the Hurricane. I do not have one but I do use the E-max GT4020/07 to power a Hyperion Yak54 40E, I use a larger propeller due to the cowl on the yak on a 4000 mah 4s battery, it is "hot" set up in more ways than one!

I don`t know if you are aware but there are some reports on the web of people getting some prop slip on these higher power E-max motors, due to the prop adapter back-plate/washer not having any crosshatching grip machined in. Initially all was good (first twenty or so flights)

Well I thought this was happening to mine, it was great on ground testing but once under load in the air it produced a sound exactly like a propeller slipping, kind of a zipping sound. You could see the propeller slowing down exactly as if the prop was slipping (the pitch of the sound increased as the prop slowed)

The first time it happened was on take off and I just managed to save her, that was when I read up on the motor and found some information on prop slipping, I rectified this by putting some cross hatching on the prop washer and some emery paper on the back plate and tightened up the prop nut as hard as I could, bench tested it and all was good.

A couple of weeks later, off to fly it again and on take off the same noise and the same slowing prop, luckily I caught it just before take off this time, I rechecked he prop nut for tightness and made several more attempts with the same result, once the prop was under take off load, that zipping sound and the propeller visibly slowing down.

Perplexed I did some more research and found one chap on line who described the same issue with this motor (fine on ground test but once loaded in the air problems ensued) the fix was simple, even though the motor ran great on the ground, the ESC timing was the problem and had to be set to high, once I did that the problem was solved, now pulls like a train, awesome power.

Sorry for the long post but I thought it best to give as much information as possible, it was a tricky problem to pin down, myself and several of the club flyers were convinced it was the prop slipping.

Greg

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Interesting, I wonder what the mechanical explanation is! Normally, I would expect the motor to speed up as the 'plane gathers speed. Since I'm looking to use 6S, my motor should be rotating quite a bit faster than yours already!

The prop washer on mine is already hatched.

I'll check to what I have the timing set anyway.

Mike

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Mike , your Hurricane looks excellent and ....light !smiley

Since you are trying to recreate a good 70Four Stroke style performance , why not have a quick look at other similar plane set ups ?

On this forum is a thread by Brian on the Macchii 202 . It is of similar size and I believe it flies on 5s with a nice prop.

Ive seen it fly and the performance and duration is very good .

The other thought is the 1700mm FMS models . What prop/battery/motor ?

Finally , the new Avios Spitfire has five cells and a large three blade that would suit the Hurricane .

Good luck

Richard

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  • 2 weeks later...

Getting close to finished! I've still to fit the pilot and canopy, but the radio and electrics are all in. Just fitted a FrSky MLVSS (specially wired to give pack voltage only), and an FrSky RPM sensor. I already had a FrSky 150A current sensor fitted. All are mounted in the cowling area, as is the ESC. If I need some nose weight, it may as well be useful!

I think I shall go with a 12x6 prop, just got a couple of Master ones and a 3" black spinner. All fitted and working. I did a quick test indoors using s 2S, 3000mAh battery. I had readings of 7.2V, 9.0A and 4450 RPM. I haven't checked the calibration of the voltage reading yet. As I intend to use 6S, I could be looking at 12000 RPM on the 12x6 and around 1000W.

The next job is to check the CofG. Given I've used the larger tailplane size, I'm wondering how far back from the position on the plan, (mentioned earlier in this thread as conservative, nose heavy) I could go. I like "light" for the overall weight! I'll probably put the 6S in and check the weight and starting CofG position.

For information, someone on another forum asked about the MLVSS sensor (normally plugs into the pack balance connector and reads all the cell voltages) and if it would work to just measure the whole pack voltage, wired to the ESC power leads only. I did some tests and came up with wiring 6, 2K7 or 3K3 resistors, one each between the seven connections to the MLVSS. This provides suitable input voltages to each one, and then gives the total pack voltage.

I'll need some stick time on other models before I fly this!

Mike

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The larger tail size supplied with the kit is the "default " standard set up . The C of G on the plan assumes this .

Once the test flight is out of the way, you can start moving the C of G back .

Only one person that I know has used the smaller tail , which I wish I had never referred to on the plan !

Usually my kits all have larger tail areas and nobody even notices . wink 2

Richard

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  • 2 years later...

So with Richard moving to Wiltshire, me still in Essex, Covid and lockdowns, we ended up with the stock in storage. Richard has started to sort out some things. So I thought I would give you guy's the heads up. I have just put one P51B kit, one P51D kit and Two Hurricane kits on the WarbirdReplicas.co.uk website. There is also One JU88 Bomber kit but you will have to email me for that. All are first come first served.

 

Glynn

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  • 2 months later...
  • 5 months later...

Guys about to start my hurricane, as a winter build , going to do it as 7L, shuttleworths sea hurricane.

One thing i'm not clear on, is the 3 colours on the airframe.

1, underside : duck egg blue

2: top side: dark sea grey.

3: ??? is it : extra dark sea grey,or would it be some sort of green ? 

I've seen it modelled with the 3rd colour being green, however this was critisized in the write up as incorrect.

So any advice would be welcome.

Many thanks Graham ( Cornwall) 

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On my DB hurricane i was feeling cheap so painted the insignia myself. It came out so well i am likely to continue painting them. For the roundels i just cut out circles of masking tape with a compass cutter and sprayed the colours in turn. 

 

You can also try getting some waterslide decal paper and printing your own. I tried this recently on my ugly mustang and i am satisfied with the results. 

 

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