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Babybolt RCM&E Feb 2017 free plan


Peter G Simpson
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My progress on the Baby Bolt so far. I decided that I'd use 1/8th liteply for the servo mounts. I wish I'd looked properly at the build photos linked at the start of this thread as I started building part sheeted and too late to change to fully sheeted so I'll have to go for part sheeted bottom fully sheeted top

 

https://www.modelflying.co.uk/albums/member_album.asp?a=44543

Edited By Andrew Jarvis 1 on 17/04/2017 16:29:49

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Hello Peter,

Second full day at Kill Devil Hills (I can see the Wright memorial from the deck). First picture is of my "workshop" here at the beach. Second photo is the wing set up to check the join angle. Fuselage should start tomorrow.

BTW/FYI: We need to make some 1/4" parts(e.g. aileron spar). It appears that the laser cannot cut at more than a 90degree angle

beach bench.jpg..almost a wing.jpg

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Hi Chaps, Thanks for posting your Babybolt Build photos, it's great to see your progress.

Jim, i'm jealous, your workshop looks very comfortable! It's good to see the laser cut parts as I've never seen them before.

Andrew, i can see that you have cut the parts out from copies of the plan, my favourite method too.

I've been out flying my Babybolt recently from my favourite scenic spot!

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Hello again from Charlottesville Virginia,

Progress while at Kitty Hawk NC was less than expected; I forgot how tedious and time consuming it is to plank a fuselage. Pictures (in home workshop in attic dormer) show dry fit of tail feathers and set-up of snakes, servos, and RX. Hope to finish planking this week.

servo layout.jpg

servo & rx.jpg

Fly often and safe,

Jim in Virginia

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Hello Jim

I am sorry it has taken so long to reply to your question; the ESC was inside the fuselage as it was being planked and I couldn’t “read” the ESC. Planking is now complete and the hatch is cut. (Picture below). The ESC is a Kinetic Motor Systems 30 amp bec model number KBSC30. The motor came from a Dynam PBY Catalina that I repaired for a club member; it has no usable markings. I am new to electric power (this is only my fourth electric build) so I relied on the club “experts” who tell me that this setup will handle Baby Bolt.

By the way, Baby Bolt is not a good first build even with the Traplet “kit”; it requires some experiance. Also be aware that the Traplet kit was about $115 USD but the shipping to Virginia was an additional $54. Good luck with whichever RCM&E plan you decide to build.

Regards

Jim in Virginia

dry fit 2.jpg

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Posted by Jim Purcha on 01/05/2017 23:30:55:

Thanks for the information. I guess the kits are still coming from the UK.The $169 USD becomes $231 CAD for me. Ouch. Might to cut locally or by hand. I have built several kits over the last 40 years. This wouldn't be my first build.

Jim

I just photocopied the formers and ribs from the plan, cut them out and then stuck them to the wood using a glue stick, ok not as neat as laser cut but does the job and it's not going to be seen under all that planking and wing sheeting.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello from Charlottesville Virginia,

Slow progress; life keeps getting in the way of the important stuff (like building Baby Bolt). However; I have found the pilot, installed the cockpit, and completed the finish sanding. (Picture won't load at this time; later.) Now on to covering with aluminum Neucover from Value Hobby (inexpensive, strong, and light). I also found a usable set of P-47 decals. They come from Guillows. They are 1/16 scale (30 ¼ “ wingspan), cost $4.00, and look pretty good: www.guillow.com/1001decallsheet.azpx. However, they do not have the checkerboard pattern for the nose. Peter, where did you get the checkerboard decal ?

Regards

Jim in Virginia

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Posted by Jim Rhoads on 29/05/2017 22:39:46:

Peter, where did you get the checkerboard decal ?"

Hi Jim,

It's great to hear that you are making progress on your BabyBolt.

I didn't use a decal sheet for the chequerboard, I hand painted it along with all of the other markings. I find hand painting to be much simpler than decals as I could never get the decals to stick to compound curved. The cowling has very tight curves and it could not see how to stick the chequerboard to it. Furthermore owing to the reduction in diameter of the cowling as you approach the front, the chequers are not even square especially the lower cowling.

My technique is fairly simple and similar to how I paint all of my markings. Firstly draw the edge of the marking using a 'Ruling Pen' loaded with paint and a rule to get a straight line, then fill in with a paint brush.

For the cowl I started by painting the front of the cowl white before marking the chequers in pencil. Then I painted the black chequers by painting the edge lines with the ruling pen then filling in with a small paint brush. I have another ruling pen mounted in a pair of compasses for marking the round lines for example on the stars and bars.

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Progress on mine has slowed, using cyano for the planking played hell with my asthma plus I've ran out of wood for the planking and with no models shops locally now, I need to mail order, because it's length, the postage is £10 so I need to do a big enough order to justify the shipping cost.

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  • 3 years later...

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