john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 How do's the servo perform speed/torque wise through the voltage range ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Posted by john stones 1 on 26/01/2017 14:49:05: How do's the servo perform speed/torque wise through the voltage range ? You're obviously paying for the high voltage performance of these servos. It's unlikely that anyone would use them at regular voltage levels. Most regular servos are quoted at 4.8v (4 x NiMh) and 6.0v (5 x NiMh). Most other HV servos are quoted at 6.0v and 7.2v (2 x LiFe). These are quoted at 6.0 and 8.4v (2 x LiPo). Here's the specs. Dead band: 1µs Working frequency: 1520µs / 330hz Motor: Coreless Motor Operating Speed (6.0V): 0.152sec/60° Operating Speed (8.4V): 0.123sec/60° Stall Torque (6.0V): 17.25 kg.cm (239.55oz/in) Stall Torque (8.4V): 20.32 kg.cm (281.89 oz/in) Dimensions: 40.5 x 20.5 x 36.5mm /1.59 x 0.80 x 1.43in Weight: 59.3g (2.09oz) Connector Wire Length: 265 mm (10.43in) Bearing: 2BB Edited By Gary Manuel on 26/01/2017 15:06:10 Edited By Gary Manuel on 26/01/2017 15:07:32 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Never asked about regular voltage, i was curious how much improved performance was through the operating range, quick servos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Wow, that's a very high spec for the money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 27, 2017 Author Share Posted January 27, 2017 Posted by Rich2 on 27/01/2017 10:00:39: Wow, that's a very high spec for the money Yep. Time will tell whether they are worth it but first impressions are good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 27, 2017 Author Share Posted January 27, 2017 Undercarriage bolted to the fuselage. Wheels fitted - crikey, it's big! The tail wheel is not supplied with the kit. I have one on order but it's not arrived yet. Engine box lid epoxied on Shoulder added to the sides of the engine box, in front of the firewall to add strength. Similar shoulder added to top and bottom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 Baffle added behind the engine in an attempt to keep the air close to the engine cooling fins as it passes Rear view of the rear baffle. Front baffle added to the lower half of the cowl. Lower cowl fitted to check the fit of the baffles. I might add a bit more baffling at extreme left and right later. Engine is obviously too small Top half of the cowl fitted. Close up. Edited By Gary Manuel on 29/01/2017 23:04:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Nice neat job Gary. I would try and get some baffles up across near the cylinder heads. That would really get the air through the finning. At the moment the air might find that going around the top of the heads and missing the cylindersis the easiest path of travel. A pain, I know, but it's easy to do now while everything is in bits. This is worth a look Edited By cymaz on 30/01/2017 06:29:42 Edited By cymaz on 30/01/2017 06:50:23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 You've convinced me. It'll be balsa / ply rather than foam though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Fentiman Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Watching Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Balsa sides added after a fair amount of test fitting and trimming to suit. Same with the other side. Due to the shape of the hole in the front of the cowling, there is the inevitable compound curve to the piece at the top that bridges the side pieces. Balsa soaked for a while, then left twisted using weights and wedges on top of the heater. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Curved tops glued and pinned to dry. View through the right hand port ...... ..... and from the rear. View through the left hand port ..... ..... and from the rear. More images to come once the glue is dry enough to remove the pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Cowl still goes on OK with the baffles in place. This side looks OK ...... .... and so will this after a bit of trimming. This is the back-plate to the spinner I'll be fitting. I don't like the corners where the edges of the baffles are visible. A bit of thin ply should sort that, whilst not completely cutting the air flow over the crank case. That's better. A bit of red colouring on the ply plate will finish it off. The baffles will be fuel proofed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Wow... lovely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Thanks Cymaz. Hope I can still get the bottom cowling off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gavin Mack Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I'm assembling the same plane but electric, 100cc rotomax motor, 27"x10" prop, 250A speed controller, 12S 10,000mAh15C graphene battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Really interesting Gavin, I am particularly keen to see the electric gear and spec in it. Where did you get your motor and speed controller from. Will you do a separate build blog? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 Plenty of room inside for everything Gavin. Edit - Just noticed your batteries are only 15C, which is 150A. Motor is rated at 170A and ESC at 250A. Best be careful with prop selection or the batteries will take a hit. Edited By Gary Manuel on 30/01/2017 23:09:09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 Nice work on the baffles Gary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 I'll not be using the supplied DLE sparkplugs. A pair of NGK CM6's has been fitted instead. I decided to install the ignition unit and ignition battery inside the engine box rather than on the outside as I usually do. Plumbing sorted. The knotted tygon tube is the overflow pipe. This is where the ignition unit has gone. Well out of the way of the exhaust pipes etc. This position also allows good routing of the two HT leads. This is where the ignition battery has gone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 Engine box edges reinforced using 48g glass cloth and Mouldcraft SP115 epoxy resin. The whole area was fuel-proofed with this resin at the same time. Red covering applied to the part of the lower cowl that shows at the edges of the spinner. Bare balsa baffles fuel proofed with epoxy resin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 I am using the supplied plugs for the initial run in. Once that's done I will put in the CM 6's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 While epoxy is drying, I may as well make a start on servo fitting. Elevator halves first. They are pre-hinged (including gluing), so that's one less job to do. The arrows mark the position of the solid wooden control horn block. Covering removed from the servo arm slots. These slots are the only access to the elevators apart from via the root. The servos are mounted sideways inside the elevators. This has the advantages of looking nice and also resulting in the servo arm and control horn moving in the same plane. It has the dis-advantage of being a right pain to fit the servos. This is where the servos go. The servo arms need to be fitted at this stage as the screws are not accessible once the servo is installed. The servo was connected to the receiver to allow the arm to be fitted on the right spline, centred and direction of rotation set. The servo arms are from Hobbyking and look very nice and solid. The servo needs to be threaded into place from the root end and manipulated into place, but ....... ...... before that can be done, the servo wire needs to be threaded through to servo hole and back out of the lightening hole - all via the small servo arm slot. This is the point where I was glad for the amateur gynaecology course I took at night school. Once the servo was in place, the next task was to drill out the holes for the servo screws. This is a home-made drill I made from a steel pushrod off-cut. Close up of the tip - it doesn't need to be perfect to cut through the ply. Servo in its final place. Unfortunately, because the servo arms don't stick out as far as the kit supplied ones, the arms were binding on the side of the servo arm slot. Easily sorted with a bit of trimming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Manuel Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 Hole centre for the control marked, checking that the rod is at 90 degrees to the hinge line. Also that the ball joint at the hinge end is on the hinge line. Finished control. Matching pair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 You put loctite on as you go ? lovely control runs John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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