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Tim's Skywriter Build


Tim Ballinger
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John , what dimension are you looking at. Certainly there is a curve along each stringer along the length of the fus. Laterally, the only one which is actually curved Is the lower stringer on the starboard side. I fat fingered the last attachment on F9 and did not notice until it was set. The rest are pretty straight laterally when you put a ruler along but she definitely has a curve along the back. Must look at some others to see if I am unique.

I need to think about the wings now so will have to go back and reread all your wing building logs to see what tips I can pick up.

Am I right that you have changed the aileron design ?

Tim

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Thanks Lucas. Dummy tail back in already. Now talking about covering. I have a few questions.

Firstly the glass and epoxy covering on the front fus of the original. Was that so that detailing was easier to apply (rivets etc) or is there a durability or strength factor that I am missing?

Secondly , solarfilm was the only shrink game in town when I last covered a model(other than patching attic damage to my impala wings that is and even that was with 40yr old solarfilm), now there seems to be a plethora of types . I know I may get several different answers and that is fine but what do you all recommend?

Tim

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I have used Oracover and Hobby King. Hobby King is both easier to apply and more durable. Do not use anything else anymore.

Glassing add strenght but you do not need it. 6mm balsa is enough. I am going to glass but that is only because I want to try a new technique (have never glassed a fuse before) and want to start doing panel lines, nails etc. If you just want to fly cover the nose with film and you are good to go much faster (and cheaper, since glass means hi-build primer and paint).

Regards, Lucas

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Hi Tim,

If you don't really need full strength reinforcement for the front fuselage as Lucas wrote, you can use hard floor varnish (Ronseal Diamond) instead of epoxy for your glass cloth.

It is about 35% lighter than epoxy and a lot easier to work with as it is water-based. When your glassing application is dry, you can fill the cloth wave with a few thin layers of varnish - with sanding in between - and you only need a little of primer on top for a smooth finish.

Great job you're doing, by the way.

Cheers

Chris

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Thanks all, HK film seems to get your votes for the shrink side. Still undecided about the glass cloth front. I remember covering with nylon and dope and it was right pain . Chris's tip of using water based varnish sounds good if I go that route but it only seems worthwhile if I want to spend time detailing. Can't even decide on a colour scheme ATM.

Tim

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That's looking very neat Tim. As for colour scheme I had pretty well settled on orange and white, slight snag other than Oracover and solarfilm white is not be had in Toughlon or Easycoat. so much for the thought that people aren't building! My progress has slowed, sanded the tail group and hinged elevators and rudder and sorted out the closed loop for the rudder and the tube for the elevator, all a bit tight at the rear!

Weather is improving so the allotment gets priority next week.

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Old habits I think Lucas; it always used to be a hole for the aileron servo which then used pushrods and bell cranks to drive the ailerons. So now rather than just a hole i still leave a box. Might sheet it might not.

Just enjoying myself really.

I have looked at a few biplane colour schemes and I am leaning to a version of the iconic Great Lakes two tone fan across the wings if you know what i mean. Probably red and blue.

You not a fan of the HK film then Martin?

Tim

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