Wot4XL Mk2 engine choices

[Stuart Marsden]

I have just acquired a Wot4 XL MK2 with an ASP120 4 stroke. I wonder if this will be powerful enough for full aeronautics, experiences please.by

[Mark a]

Posted by Stuart Marsden on 25/04/2017 21:15:42:

I have just acquired a Wot4 XL MK2 with an ASP120 4 stroke. I wonder if this will be powerful enough for full aeronautics, experiences please.by

I have the same model with the same engine and its a good match, mine will just about do anything I want it to.

 

Mark.

Edited By Mark a on 25/04/2017 21:31:40

[Stuart Marsden]

That's great to hear, what prop are you using please?

[Mark a]

Posted by Stuart Marsden on 25/04/2017 21:36:48:

That's great to hear, what prop are you using please?

Its fitted with an Xoar 15 x 6 at the moment but pulls well with 14 x 6. Its worth checking the fin just make sure its been securely glued in.

Edited By Mark a on 25/04/2017 22:00:26

[cymaz]

I know a Wot4 XL that had an OS 200fs in it. Wayyy over powered and very hard to slow down, land and stop from wandering to the left, ( no election pun intended).

[Stuart Marsden]

Thanks for all of this, I will check the fin and the whole aircraft over before flying. Obviously with your comments I will try the installed engine, the C of G appears to be bang on and the previous owner is a very experienced flyer. Cheers Stuart

[Jon H]

I used the wot4 xl for the testing of our laser 155 prototype. It was 100% monster so I am sure the 120 would do the job on a 15x6 or 15x8

[cymaz]

I find a 20cc engine is just right for the Wot 4XL

[brokenenglish]

To just continue my "learning on my own", I'm going put an Irvine 72 in mine.

It won't be overpowered, but I only want reliable and accurate flying.

I do have the option of a 120 or 180 FS, but I'm going to try the Irvine first.

Edited By brokenenglish on 26/04/2017 07:14:53

[ChrisB]

You'll have fun with a 72 in it!

Don't haul it off as it'll only go one way! Id go for the 120 if it were me.

[brokenenglish]

Yes Chris, that's the reaction I expected from a skilled pilot, but I'm getting everso slightly elderly, I'm still learning and I shall be flying the thing like a trainer really.

My ultimate aim is simply to be able to fly a big WWI biplane without undue risk. At the moment, I have no intention or ambition to get into aerobatics. I started with an electric foamie Wot4, I now have a couple of ic Wot4s and, of course, I love 'em, so I thought I'd try the XL.

Anyway, when all this comes about, I shall post the results on here.

[David Davis]

I have a "cooking" Enya 120 FS in mine, it will do most things but won't go vertical for ever. A 120 fourstroke seems to be the most popular engine choice but I have seen one powered by a 90 fourstroke.

Just to re-iterate Mark's point, please check that the fin is securely glued in. I handed the transmitter to a fellow club member last year so that he could try out the XL. He flew it around without putting to much stress on the airframe when the fin let go. He managed to get it down without damage.I'm sure it would have gone in if I'd been at the controls! I have subsequently made up a new fin, glued triangular strip along the junction of the fuselage and fin and added wire bracing.

I have an old but sound Laser 150 V twin which I might install for a laugh. I might even fit a glider tow-release as gliders are popular in my club.

[Mark a]

Posted by brokenenglish on 26/04/2017 07:13:21:

To just continue my "learning on my own", I'm going put an Irvine 72 in mine.

It won't be overpowered, but I only want reliable and accurate flying.

I do have the option of a 120 or 180 FS, but I'm going to try the Irvine first.

Edited By brokenenglish on 26/04/2017 07:14:53

I would go for a 120, you will have the power there should need it to get you out of trouble. A couple of times I've had a wobble and just pointed the nose up and opened the throttle and got myself out of trouble. Power can be your friend and give you time to sort things out were an under powered model could easily come to grief.

Edited By Mark a on 26/04/2017 21:00:45

Edited By Mark a on 26/04/2017 21:01:04

[ChrisB]

Posted by brokenenglish on 26/04/2017 08:15:19:

Yes Chris, that's the reaction I expected from a skilled pilot, but I'm getting everso slightly elderly, I'm still learning and I shall be flying the thing like a trainer really.

My ultimate aim is simply to be able to fly a big WWI biplane without undue risk. At the moment, I have no intention or ambition to get into aerobatics. I started with an electric foamie Wot4, I now have a couple of ic Wot4s and, of course, I love 'em, so I thought I'd try the XL.

Anyway, when all this comes about, I shall post the results on here.

If you're aiming to fly a big WWI bipe then it'll take quite a bit more flying than a WOT4 XL. Not impossible , but quite a lot of rudder input and the drag will be significant on a bipe, particularly if its 1/4 scale with flying wires etc.

Just keep at it and fly as much as you can, its the only way to progress.

Are you in a club?

CB

[Stuart Marsden]

Another issue is my elevator push rod vibrates badly, has a to me moved the servo near to the stabilizer and how?Cheers Stuart.

[Mark a]

Posted by Stuart Marsden on 26/04/2017 21:36:07:

Another issue is my elevator push rod vibrates badly, has a to me moved the servo near to the stabilizer and how?Cheers Stuart.

I've been flying mine for a couple of years as it came straight out of the box Stuart without any issues regarding the ele push rod.

[Stuart Marsden]

Interesting, I will double check my model, but anyone else with this issue, please comment.

[cymaz]

Posted by Stuart Marsden on 26/04/2017 21:54:33:

Interesting, I will double check my model, but anyone else with this issue, please comment.

Have a look at the build photos I did on my build if you like

[Stuart Marsden]

Thanks will do, this is very useful. Cheers Stuart

[David Davis]

Posted by ChrisB on 26/04/2017 21:34:41:

Posted by brokenenglish on 26/04/2017 08:15:19:

Yes Chris, that's the reaction I expected from a skilled pilot, but I'm getting everso slightly elderly, I'm still learning and I shall be flying the thing like a trainer really.

My ultimate aim is simply to be able to fly a big WWI biplane without undue risk. At the moment, I have no intention or ambition to get into aerobatics. I started with an electric foamie Wot4, I now have a couple of ic Wot4s and, of course, I love 'em, so I thought I'd try the XL.

Anyway, when all this comes about, I shall post the results on here.

If you're aiming to fly a big WWI bipe then it'll take quite a bit more flying than a WOT4 XL. Not impossible , but quite a lot of rudder input and the drag will be significant on a bipe, particularly if its 1/4 scale with flying wires etc.

Just keep at it and fly as much as you can, its the only way to progress.

Are you in a club?

CB

 

Quite so.

I have flown two WW1 biplanes: a Flair Puppeteer and a Roy Scott BE2e. I found that you had to change your flying technique considerably in order to fly them successfully. This mainly involved using the rudder much more than you would on a sports model as Chris B has suggested above. Indeed I found that I had to use boot-fulls of rudder in the turns on both models and that's even with 40% rudder programmed in with the ailerons on the BE2. I have just increased it to 60% and hope to test the alteration over the next few days.

Furthermore, I found that the c/g position on both plans was far too far to the rear. I had to add nearly 500 grammes of lead (18ozs) under the engine of the BE2 to move the balance point forward to a point a point above the centre of the front cockpit..

A second major difference between flying sports models like the WOT 4 XL and a biplane is the drag of the airframe, again as Chris has mentioned above. To land you have to fly the model right down onto the ground with the engine on. If you try cutting the engine and gliding in, they drop like bricks!

I have never flown a 1/4 scale biplane, some claim that they are easier to fly than the smaller models. The Puppeteer, a delight to fly once you're used to it, is 1/5 scale in my opinion, and the BE2e, 1/6. Ok the "Scale Galacticos" would regard both models as semi-scale but my main points remain valid.

Edited By David Davis on 27/04/2017 05:13:24

[cymaz]

With a bipe especially, opening the throttle will improve and "stretch" the final approach. Blips of throttle will keep the air moving over the tail giving you more control of the rudder and elevator. Watch out for the plane to yaw into any cross wind.

I seem to have gone off thread topic...

Edited By cymaz on 27/04/2017 06:12:31

[David Davis]

My fault!

I'll get back to this thread if I fit the V Twin. I expect it'll be unique.

[ChrisB]

I've got a 1/4 DB Pup with a Laser 200v and a 1/4 Flair Stearman with a 300v, both need throttle on landing, although the Pup is quite light, so floats ever so slightly more. There is no float at all with the Stearman, it needs throttle all the way to touch down.

Anyway, back to topic

[cymaz]

A new thread I'd needed for landing techniques...I'm on it

[Geoff Curtis 1]

On a slightly different note, I have bought wind hand wot4xl with a dle 20, my problem is I don't know the control surface throws, anybody help me out.