Levanter Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 This being my first twin build, the nacelles have given me a lot of food for thought. In my first few posts I looked at fitting retracts and possibly going for a trike undercarriage but there were problems positioning the gear in relation to the CG and generally a lack of space. The latter was not helped by choosing to use 4 strokes which are quite a bit longer than the 2 strokes on the prototype. This meant moving N1 back a bit and the cowl is longer. Hopefully the CG will still come out roughly on the money and if we are slightly nose heavy I could always fit a tail wheel instead of the skid as drawn. In the end I have made some fairly drastic changes to the design of the nacelles with the main reasons being to try to save weight, streamlining, ease of fitting to wing section and finally I wanted then dismountable although I am still not entirely sure why! Rather than go into detail of the changes here, I hope they will be better explained as we progress through the build. The first major change was to hang the nacelle from the false leading edge as well as the main spars. This allowed me to think of the forward section going up into the wing between the ribs and the rear section being fitted up against the sheeting which in this area is virtually flat. This should make it easier but time will tell. By supporting the nacelle in this way it is no longer structural behind the spar so a lot of it can be in balsa to save weight. The only change to N1 was to move the hole for the tank and fuel tubes to bring the middle of the tank closer to the centreline of the carburettor. It also make the holes completely clear of the engine mounts. As far as the ply sides are concerned these are much shorter and the front section now has a slot for false leading edge. Although I calculated the position of this slot taking the wing taper into consideration it did need quite a lot of adjustment later on so in hindsight I should have left the slot for later. A much more serious mistake happened later to which I will confess in due course. The ply sides have my usual lightening treatment making the cut-outs by chain drilling and then cleaning up with a Dremel. Due to the wing taper the nacelle sides are slightly different inboard to outboard. Here the cut-outs have been cleaned up and the paper templates (previously stuck on with Pritt Stick) are being removed by damping with water. I am too lay to get up to get clean water so provided my glue brush water is not too glue like it works just as well. I have found that if you get the paper quite wet and don't rush, most of the Pritt Stick comes off the paper. I have also recently found that the Pritt Stick copies are slightly better in this respect as they don't stick quite so well in the first place. N1 is now ready for fitting the captive nuts for the engine mount. The nacelle side were made as matched pairs (inboard and outboard) and held together for working on with 3M spray mount. I have not tried copies for fear of them being permanently stuck together. With 3M they separate easily and if necessary, any residue can be cleaned off easily with acetone. In the background you can see one of my favourites, my dusting brush. You can see that the stainless steel ferrule is wrapped with masking tape. The edges of the ferrule are sharp and if you have a beautiful surface already prepared, they are the ideal scratching tool. Taped up you can brush with complete abandon. This was one of the first tips given to me when I first started in a GRP moulding shop and all my dusting brushes are taped up. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Hi Levanter, Still following this great build blog. In fact, you're not building a Grumpy TC. To me it seems more like you are 'designing' your first twin engined craft... Keep on the nice work, young man. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted March 25, 2018 Author Share Posted March 25, 2018 Thank you Chris. It will certainly have all the Grumpy looks with the only external change being the raised aft deck. Most of the changes are internal and maybe even with home made tin fuel tanks. I have boxed myself into a corner and the 4oz Kavan tanks won't fit due to making the nacelles dismountable. In another thread I asked if it was possible to 3D print fuel tanks as that could be ideal. Before that though there may be some off the shelf squarish type tanks in the helicopter world or in boats. I have a feeling some acrobatic tanks are fairly square and maybe someone will come up with some ideas. I would rather practice on much smaller units. Back on the job then and there are some nacelle parts to stick together. Here N1 is being glued to one of the sides. After a job in a shipyard I managed to squirrel away a length of extruded aluminium alloy angle. I checked it out and it was perfectly square and the internal corner was sharp. Ideal then for jigging bits together at 90 degrees. The former N1 now has the captive nuts which are pressed in using a small vice. This ensures that I can press them in dead square and have quite a tight fit. No need for glue with these and eventually the fuel proofer will seal them nicely. The small hole is for the throttle rod and is in a different position than shown on the plan to suit my 4 strokes. Here the other side is being stuck in place and immediately the corner blocks to provide extra strength ultimately for the engine support but importantly in the meantime for handling strength. The corner blocks are home-made from some rock hard sheet balsa I spotted at Leroy Merlin (B&Q esque) while on domestic duties. These sheets are reserved for spars, triangle stock and other tough applications. Good stuff and straight as a die. Time for a bit of belt and braces. Generally speaking I am happy with glued joints but I am hanging a heavier engine further out that the plan so here I am beefing up the joint where the edge-ply is glued to the face ply. The holes are 3mm diameter and the ply is 6mm thick so marking out needs to be quite accurate. The dowel are cane skewers which just happen to be a gentle tap fit. Here are the dowels sanded flush making a very strong joint. The engine mounts are Radio Active Size 19 - 30 and are a perfect fit for the OS FS 30 Surpass engines. The bearer arms however suffer from shrinkage making them hollow and slightly twisted. This shows up very clearly on the right hand mount which is not yet finished. The left hand mount has been sanded using the Permagrit and as can been seen is now flat and parallel. Now when the engine is bolted up it is fully supported and there are no twisting forces on the crankcase. Small details but I think they are important. These are the throttle servo mounts. They are a strange shape for reasons that will become clear later on. Eventually they will be glued to the back of former N2 but as N2 will be fitted when the nacelle is offer up to the wing they are both set aside for the moment. The cowl however can be completed as it only has to reference to N1 and the engine. Here the nose rings are glued to temporary formers that are bolted to the prop drivers. There are three spacers at 1.5mm thick which will give the required clearance between the spinner and the nose ring. The spacers are soft balsa which is easily cut through when the temporary former has to come off. Note the centrelines and the little pop marks so that the lines don't get lost. Here is a better view of the nose ring. This nose ring method follows Peter Millers ideas and instructions as does the built up cowl which is to follow. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 Oh Dear. I have been missing out on this build blog and a few others. Don't know how that happened. Looking great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted March 26, 2018 Author Share Posted March 26, 2018 Just the cowls to be built now and because there is twice the number of a "normal" aircraft it is worthwhile setting up a bit to help with repeatability. But first the engine has to be fitted temporarily. This holds the nose ring in the right place while construction is underway but it is also a good opportunity to check things like clearances and that the hole for the throttle control is in the right place. There are only two angles to make. The side pieces are the same angle front and back and the top piece has a slightly different angle but likewise the same front and back. Here we can thank Peter for designing many of his models without side thrust or down thrust making the nose ring and the firewall parallel. These are the two simple sanding jigs to cater for the two angles. The angles themselves can be lifted straight off the plan. This is how they are used. The jig is lined up just back from the edge to be sanded and lifts the piece to create the correct bevel by using a Permagrit on its side or some other square sanding block. To do the other end, the piece is reversed and turned upside down and sanded to the reference lines. The pieces need to be accurate in length to frequent offering up is the key to not taking away too much material. This method helps to keep the glue lines nice and tight which helps a lot with the strength but makes final sanding to shape a whole lot easier as well. Here you can see the Permagrit on edge and one of the sanding jigs. The main point of this photo concerns the strip pinned to the end of the side piece. If the outside edge of the side piece was glued flush with edge of the firewall it would be impossible to avoid a hard line when fairing up without sanding into the firewall itself. The strip hold the side piece a set distance outside of the firewall so when it is sanded I can fair the curve tangentially and this results in a sweet fair curve. Here the amount outside the firewall is a bit more than usual as the firewall and plywood nacelle will be sheeted with balsa and this accounts for the thickness. Here is one cowl all glued up and with internal triangle fitted to give extra thickness for when the outside is profiled. The engine is taking out at the earliest opportunity one the nose ring is stable and definitely no sanding beforehand. Finally we have two part-built nacelles with their rough shaped cowls. The holes are for a number of things including needle valve, slow running adjustment, choke rod and to access the screw on the throttle arm. We now have nacelles sufficiently far advanced to tackle the wing. In the instructions we have to adjust the positions of ribs 4 and 5 to be a neat fit for the nacelles. In my case this is doubly important as the nacelles will be fixed with screws and need to be a good sliding fit but without slop. On to the wings then. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted March 27, 2018 Author Share Posted March 27, 2018 The wing is needed to finish the nacelles and of course being a shoulder wing aircraft some of the fuselage sits on top including the cockpit. As mentioned before I made a set of aluminium rib templates for my Oodallaly. All but one were the same and that is R1 which has the cut-out for the central servo on the bottom of the wing for Grumpy whereas it is on the top for the low wing Oodallaly. Cutting around the alloy is dead easy just remembering to keep the scalpel upright. Almost no sanding is then required and in no time at all you have a full set of these. This is the point where it clicked that R1 is different and this picture shows the wrong R1 before I threw it away to avoid getting mixed up. The alloy templates have the positions of the spar slots scribed in but they are not cut out. This gives me the freedom to use different spar sizes and sections just using the rear scribe mark as a constant reference. R1 has the slot for the wing dowel. It is not continuous because of the dihedral brace. I will be using individual servos for the flaps and ailerons but I have no idea what size of type to use if anyone would like to comment. Help please! The recess will instead be used to house the connectors for the various leads that will come to this point. I will be looking for advice on using a multi-pin connector for ease and neatness. R2 is also discontinuous as I decided to increase the length of the dihedral brace by one bay as I am hanging heavier engines than the two 15s specified. For some reason I forgot to make the hole for the servo leads but I did remember before gluing it in place. There are no other lightening holes because the flap servo will go between R2 and R3. R4 and R5 are Liteply to give me a bit more resistance to the nacelles coming on and off. R6 and R7 have solid sections aft of the spar as this is where the aileron servos will go. R8, 9 and 10 are standard but on a bit of a diet. There is not much of R11 as there just needs to be enough to glue it to the wingtip block in due course. The eagle eyed (of which there are many on this forum) will notice that the spar slots get shallower as we go outboard. This is because the spars are tapered down to 2mm at the wing tip. The taper starts midway between R5 and R6 which is just outboard of the nacelles. The tapers were rough cut on the band saw and finished off with the Permagrit sanding in pairs to keep the edges parallel. The spars are probably Oregon Pine or Douglas Fir as they are too grainy to be Spruce. A surprising amount of weight was saved by tapering the spar and of course saving weight in the right place. I did wipe each spar with a clean rag soaked in alcohol before assembling but I have never had any problem gluing these material even is less than ideal environments. The tapered spars look really nice in situ and didn't take long to do. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 The first major variation on the wings is that they will have flaps. The ailerons will still be the strip type but only extend from R6 to the wing tip. I am counting on them having sufficient authority and the trailing edge section that I have in stock is slightly wider in the chord so I will gain a bit of area. The flaps will be fitted between R2 and R6 but I want real barn door stuff and not just a personnel entrance so they are significantly wider in chord and recessed into the lower trailing edge capping. Here is the lower trailing edge capping recessed to give me some more flap area. This close-up shows that the extremity of the recess is just supported by a rib and the aileron will take over from there. Incidentally seeing as it shows up well my standard building boards are 19mm multi-ply carefully selected for straightness. The surface is two layer of cork tiles which gives a decent thickness for the pins to grab. The joints in the tiles are staggered to keep them as flat as possible and given a quick dressing with the Permagrit to take of any nibs and ridges. My boards are clamped upright when in storage an as an example my favourite 1.2m board (4ft in old money) is flat and untwisted to less than 1mm in any direction. It is now three years old and although it has acquired a few interesting stains it is still doing fine. One day if it decides to go wonky I will cut it up in smaller sections for use with minor assemblies and tail feathers etc. I have the plans copied so I don't have any guilt about cutting them up and take lots of A4 and sometimes A3 copies for specific details. Ordinary domestic cling film is then stretched over the plan and taped in place. If I ever get to build bigger then I will have to progress to catering sized cling film. It is so incredibly cheap and easy that I gave up saving the backing from covering films a long time ago. Oh and another thing. I have learned to be cautious if I ever use thin superglue. It can run down the pin and through the cling film and left me with a conundrum about which bit to break. Levanter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 Really with strip ailerons most of their effect is out towards the tips anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted March 28, 2018 Author Share Posted March 28, 2018 Peter I suppose if the roll rate was a bit slow I could always mix (Ha Ha because I haven't got a clue how) the flaps individually to the ailerons in normal or max'd out flight and have them come down together in a different flight mode on a knob or a switch. Academic really I suppose but might be fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 28, 2018 Share Posted March 28, 2018 That sounds horribly complicated. I wouldn't like totry it. Just increase the throws would be my answer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted March 29, 2018 Author Share Posted March 29, 2018 Just increase the throws it is then. We are some way to go before then however so we keep pushing on with the wing. Some time ago I made up a set of balsa blocks that are square on all faces and across the ends. I pin these to the plan lining up the edge of the block with the inboard edge of the rib. It doesn't really matter to much which side but best to stick to a routine. The rib is then pinned to the block while gluing which holds it straight and upright. You can see that the blocks are quite peppered with holes but this is their 10th build and I reckon I'll get 10 more before they give up. I haven't the faintest idea why there is "A" written on the little packer but if I remember later I will let on. It is the same thickness as the trailing edge sheeting and the caps strips to come later. (In my case 2mm) This is a trial fit of the rib. A couple had to have a very light sanding to fit and one was a bit short so ended up with a small packer. A pencil mark is being made on the side of the rib to tell me where to stop gluing. As a general rule glue that is outside the joint is wasted and any lumps on the underside of the ribs would interfere with the fitting of the cap strips later. To complete the picture about my obsession with unwanted glue here I am wiping out the excess where the rib touches the trailing edge sheeting and the trailing edge spar. It is not total madness however because in some places there will be blocks for the hinges and in the region of the flaps, the spaces between the ribs are blocked in. This picture shows the use of the temporary rib blocks, a hinge block in place and the blocks between the ribs in the flap area. I am also fitting the top spar which until it is glued in place is fairly flexible. It was also on quite straight. There are frequent question about whether one can use material that is not quite straight and in most cases the answer is yes unless there is a definite kink. The curve will spring out and once the overall structure is complete everything will remain straight. Here I have taped the top spar to my straight edge. I can now check that all the slots in the ribs are deep enough and adjust as necessary. The straight edge was kept in place while gluing and this prevented the spar from being pressed into any slots that I had cut a bit too deep and there were a couple. With the glue dried and the tape cut to remove the straight edge it is an easy matter to dress the tops of any ribs that are slightly higher than the spar. This is one of the major milestones in the wing construction as the ribs are now better supported. The assembly can still twist but it cannot bend. This has uses that I will come onto later. I like to fit the dihedral brace quite early and I didn't have the right thickness of ply so I laminated two pieces to make up the thickness. To get a good bond quite a lot of pressure is needed and weights are not always enough to stop the laminations opening at the edges. I have a large supply of wooden clothes pegs and although there is domestic competition for these things I have worked out s system where any that have week springs can stick with their intended purpose and the strong ones get turned into clamps. To further avoid tension the top one is definitely a clothes peg. The bottom one has had its nose trimmed for getting right into corners and is now officially a clamp! Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 29, 2018 Share Posted March 29, 2018 I use clothes pegs. too but I have a big box of every sort of clamp that I can find. Never leave a clamp lying round of I will"acquire" it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Ballinger Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 If it eases your mind at all with regard to aileron effectiveness my GTC ailerons start outboard of R5 ie outboard of the nacelles and they are still quite powerful. I used only low rates on my first two flights which for the ailerons was 3/8 “ . Roll rate was adequate albeit not twinkle fast . I will try high rate (1/2&rdquo when I judge the weather good enough to fly him again. Tim Edited By Tim Ballinger on 30/03/2018 11:15:59 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted March 30, 2018 Share Posted March 30, 2018 I have a box full of clothes pegs used as clamps, too. A lot of them are a relic of the time I made a peg board to use in the hanger at the Nats when I helped to run the indoor flying in the 35Mhz days. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 Many uses for the clothes pegs then but I have decided, like Peter that you can never have too many. I have a few of these plus some bigger ones. The one at the top is a cheapo from somewhere and the jaws fold back on themselves which is a pain The bottom one is a Wolfcraft and 100% better. If I can find some more of the Wolcraft type that would be great and the others I will leave the others lying around to see if they will tempt Peter. Geoff. You set me thinking about indoor flying on 35 MHz. Did everyone have their aerials fully extended or was the range sufficient without. Tim. You have me completely baffled with the formula 1/2&rdquo but you have put my mind at rest with the aileron authority. Looking forward to the feedback after trying the high rates. Back to the wing and there are only few departures from the standard. Time to bring back the part complete nacelles to get the spacing correct between R4 and R5 Out with the Vernier callipers this time because the ply sides of the nacelle have to fit in the space and be a sliding fit. Too big a gap and the nacelles will not line up correctly and put strain on the surrounding structure when tightening the fastening. To small and we are back to sanding plywood which I very much like to avoid. This is a spacer to keep the side of the nacelle at the correct dimension where they are not fixed by N1 and N2. I will be fitting an aluminium tube in the leading edge of the wing to take the dowel. This will ensure that the dowel is the sacrificial item and the hole in the wing will not get enlarged over time or from bumps. R1(above) can stay the same and has the slot that will get enlarged later. R1a (below) is made from thicker medium soft balsa (6mm) as I don't want the bigger hole breaking out of the sides. This thickness also give me a it more gluing area. The slit on R1a is at the same depth as the slot in R1. This will ensure that when I make the hole for the alloy tube with an old aerial, the waste will fall out and not have to be excavated. At the wing root the balsa block method is used as before but this time have little templates fixed to include the dihedral angle. Two jigs are used to keep the rib on station and at the correct. The packing at the jig nearest the spar keeps the straight section of the rib at the same height as the trailing edge sheeting. The photo shows the dihedral brace extending an extra bay outboard. As is it mainly fresh air at this point it is not really adding much weight. It looks like the brace is in upside down but is just the camera angle. I am quite capable of making that kind of mistake though. Oh, and I still have no idea what I wrote A for on the little scrap piece. This is R1 and with the recess for the centre servo (now going to house the connector for the ailerons, flaps and throttles) there is not much meat left to glue to the dihedral brace. When everything is finally put together the rib is well supported by the sheeting but during assembly it is quite vulnerable. This is why I have fitted the little corner block. It doesn't show up on the photo but I cut most of the recess while the rib was flat and easy to get to. Some short tabs were left uncut, again to retain some stability during construction. The little strip across the bottom is spot glued to maintain the angle of the rib and will come off later when not needed. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Ballinger Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 Levanter, No idea what strange ascii combination produced that formula but trying to edit out just compounded the code! A simple 1/2 “ then close a bracket was all I was after. I’ll let you know how the next flight goes when the weather shows a tendency towards spring rather than monsoon. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted April 1, 2018 Share Posted April 1, 2018 Geoff. You set me thinking about indoor flying on 35 MHz. Did everyone have their aerials fully extended or was the range sufficient without. IIRC everyone had their aerials extended. I suspect it wasn't absolutely necessary but I guess it was done out of habit. However it's possible to damage the output circuit of a transmitter if the load (ie the the aerial) isn't correct but I've never heard of anyone actually suffering any problems. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 The false leading edge is no in place and roughly trimmed to size. The tops of the ribs are now protected with masking tape so that the leading edge can be accurately sanded to the correct level and angle. It is so easy break a rib or to sand in a flat spot and not only does the tape tend to guide the sanding block past the rib it also provides a tell-tale when you are getting close. The brass weight came with a job lot of stuff with a lathe. It is surprisingly heavy and also makes a useful, semi-soft anvil. This is an example of the tape in use on the trailing edge. The tape has cut through on one rib and is on its way on another. You can see that the wing is not lined up with the plan. In this instance the wing was taken of to line the trailing edge up with the edge of the building board. It makes it much easier to sand without scraping through the cling film and the plan. Once the sheer webs are glued in place the straightness of the wing is "locked in". Until the sheeting is done creating a D box the wing will twist easily but that doesn't matter if it is pinned or weighted flat during work in progress. For all sorts of ease of handling reasons I probably have the skeleton wing on and off the board 4 or 5 times before the final sheeting is applied. The part finished wing is completely off the board for sanding the trailing edge. The wavy pencil line is the tell-tale and using the longest Permagrit the sheeting is sanded back until just starting to remove the pencil marks. The edge is then sighted for straightness and adjusted if necessary which might mean that pencil marks on the high spots get sanded out but at least the datum is maintained. Final sanding before covering will take out the last of the pencil marks. Just a reminder that the softest of pencils will make a line on balsa without making a permanent groove. Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 That tip with the masking tape is great. I will use that in future Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 Excellent building tips there Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 I must admit I've broken or sanded ribs by accident when shaping leading or trailing edges. Those Permagrit tools are wonderful but on soft balsa you can do a lot of damage very quickly if you're not careful ... and I'm a bit ham-fisted these days. I'll certainly try the masking tape tip myself. I use a lot of masking tape but almost never for masking Geoff Edited By Geoff Sleath on 02/04/2018 15:42:13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 Thank you Peter and Ron I think is pays to use good quality tapes and the first choice is 3M general purpose. It seems to have just the right tack properties with a reasonable grip to hold things together while gluing for instance but doesn't lift the grain when coming off. The tape should always be pulled back on itself and not lifted up. Care is needed however on very soft balsa and if the grain starts to lift then try pulling from the other direction. Another application for the tape is to stop glue from going where it is not wanted. Here I have applied masking tape to cover just a small lip of the top spar. When it comes to sheeting the centre section, this small lip makes a ledge for the sheeting to land on. Even as little as 1mm helps and is also useful to help keel the cap strips straight. Here I have applied the glue and removed the tape. When the top sheeting goes on, a little will squeeze out and need wiping off but it does not have to go all over the ledge that you are going to use later. Not shown here but I stuck a pin on this glue line at the wing tip and the root. This gives you something to easily locate the top sheeting in its desired place without having to slide it around and probably smear glue all over that nice clean area. Out come the pegs again and my meagrely collection of clamps. At this stage the D section is still not closed so we are OK on the twisting front but so as to not tempt fate, the battery is holding everything perfectly flat. The brush and the cutting mat are just things I had to hand to put some gentle weight on the sheeting to stop it flipping up with the clamps just nipping the edge. The blocks for the aileron hinges can be seen and on the board itself on the left hand side there are two packers pinned in place that register the wing position directly and repeatedly over the plan whenever I want to. Take my word for it. There is a wing under there and it is back on the board in the right place. The packers pinned to the board make sure of that. Another well trodden use for my favourite magazine. Quite a few kilos in that lot. The odd one out is the Flight magazine which I buy if I am travelling although my preference is Pilot. I am interested in full size but the magazines often provide useful ideas for colour schemes. I have retained all my six years worth of RCME - Well, I might build a really big aircraft one day. Actually I really like to go back and read old issues. When I had an open fire it used to take me ages to get it going as all those newspaper articles became fascinating although did not warrant a second glance at the time. Likewise with the magazine, articles that I skipped on first read, take on a whole new meaning if left to mature for a while like a good wine. Does anyone else find the same? Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 I really like your labelled cardboard boxes, Levanter. It looks like you are building all day long, such a fast progress. Anyhow reading all of your posts with the most careful attention. Regarding the magazines and "the good wine", I still have a 20 years old collection of the French VW Magazine. But to be honest, although they are quite younger, I prefer the Valsacro or Casa Safra (both Spanish). Being from 2005 up to 2009, they really come out very nice those days. Keep up the good work over there. Cheers Chris Edited By McG 6969 on 02/04/2018 18:03:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Levanter Posted April 2, 2018 Author Share Posted April 2, 2018 Chris I rescued the boxes from an old factory in the UK. They were flat-packed new but redundant. By extremely good fortune they fit four abreast and three high in Ikea shelves. I'll let you into a secret. The build is a bit ahead of the blog so I am catching up a bit. I am wondering how many Grumpy Tiger Cubs are being built. It will be most unlike me to finish first and I have previous mass builds that are not quite there Levanter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rgarde Posted April 2, 2018 Share Posted April 2, 2018 Hi Levanter, You are making nice progress and you also build neatly! I also started with the wing and nice to see to he same way of working for some things (e.g. tape, template for R1) One question about the dihedral brace: The top side is almost straight at the prescribed dihedral angle. Would it be a problem to make the top side completely straight? That would be easy to join the wing halves upside down on the building board. With kind regards, Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.