Andy Meade Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 Crikey, I'd make that "rough" side into a sloper Dirk! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 Are you dropping hints, Andy? I thought you already had a Fouga Magister!! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 3, 2021 Share Posted November 3, 2021 (edited) Hi Dirk, Still avidly following your blog here in Zaventem. I'm even more amazed as I saw the results of your courage & tenacity 'in real life' in St Niklaas very recently... Thanks again also with your help regarding my 'old' car. ? Keep on the magnificent job, young man. Cheers Chris Edited November 3, 2021 by McG 6969 lousy grammar... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 7, 2021 Author Share Posted November 7, 2021 Hi all ! @ Chris :Thanks for following and for thrusting me with your car ! As i expected ,the next building session was a marathon ! With the fuse mould waxed , pva'd , painted i started applying 50gr glass followed by 100gr glass. The area's where the airex doesn't reach , i used a extra layer of 100gr (curves). Also the open edges and hatch openings get this layer for strenght. Next comes the airex foam layer. The pieces were cut upfront and soaked in resin.They are held in position with magnets(on the backside of the mould taped in place)and little bolts to atract the magnets. I use bolts so i can easely grab them and remove them to apply the next layer of glass.Before the glass gets on , i wetted the airex with enough resin so everything is connected well. The bolts return to their position now to keep everything in place.The glass is laminated thesame way as always with brush and roller.When happy with the result , a layer of perforated plastic comes next , again remove the bolts , get the plastic in place and return the bolts.Every inch must be covered to prevent the next layer(bleeder)to stick to the glass. The bleeder is needed to transfer the vacuum and to soak-up all the exess resin .To put on the bleeder ...the bolts are again removed but replaced by little flat pieces of metal(i used old wheel balancing weights).The bolts would get in the way for the vacuum bag. Finally , the whole gets in a large plastic bag , sealed on one side with rubber sealant,and sealed on the other side with a U shaped aluminium rule where a rubber band gets pushed in. This way i can re-use the bag. Slowly vacuum is applyed (in stages)to make sure the plastic bag reaches the mould everywhere. The vacuum presses every layer to the next and the resin is forced into the bleeder.The whole is left to cure overnight at 20deg and the morning after , everything is removed up to the top resin layer.I was very pleased with the result sofar.No wrinkles and everything seems to be connected very well. To see the end result , we have to wait until the two halves are joined and the moulds are seperated.... Next task is to trim the edges with a sharp blade and clean up the inside. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 8, 2021 Author Share Posted November 8, 2021 As this was a 10h session , i forgot to make pic's of every step but the second half session , i will be more relaxed and illustrate it step by step for easy following. It will take a couple of days before the other half mould is cleaned , mounted , waxed , pva'd , painted .. and ready to be laminated. Stay tuned ! We're getting somewhere now !!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 8, 2021 Author Share Posted November 8, 2021 @ Nigel R : Sorry i missed your question ! Yes , the new fuse half is the one where the pva '' grabbed '' and is ready to scrap ! In fact , it will be used for testing other techniques. Again sorry for the delay. cheers , Dirk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Outstanding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Excellent work Dirk, your perseverance is an example to us all! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Brilliant - master class in how-to with buckets of perseverance ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 Impressive as ever?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Murat Kece 1 Posted November 8, 2021 Share Posted November 8, 2021 excellent... ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 Hi all ! As promissed step by step ! First step : wax the contact surfaces of the mould pieces and bolt them together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 With the parts bolted together , i taped the magnets in place with duct tape. Next come the foam blocks to protect the vacuum bag. The blocks were made with liquid 2K foam By pressing the foam block onto the mould i can find the position of the magnets and make room for them After this ,the foam blocks are all taped in place on the back side of the mould x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 Before the waxing , i made the airex parts. I used thesame templates as for the first half. I used the foto's from the first half here The edges of the airex parts have to be chamfered so the glass has no problem to follow the surface and no air chambers are formed. This is done with a power file Next come the perforation of the airex with a hollow punch The airex parts are ready now. Next is cutting the glass , perforated plastic , and bleeder parts , all with the same templates , but with a little overhang.Sorry no pics... Everything is ready now for laminating the second half fuse , exept for the wax and pva ! x x x 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 I went for the pva coat tonight after the wax and the same problem occured as with the first fuse half: the pva seems to have no grip in some area's I tought i had solved that problem but i'm wrong. It must be some contamination with silicones or something... I washed the mould clean , degreased it with some mild degreaser , waxed it again and tried another coat of pva. This time i had more luck ! No problems whatsoever !! So , tomorrow i will do this to the whole mould and make it ready for paint !! Sta tuned !! Thanks for watching !! Dirk. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 24, 2021 Share Posted November 24, 2021 Admire your tenacity! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 25, 2021 Author Share Posted November 25, 2021 Hi all! Tonight i painted the inside of the mould after the waxing and a coat of pva. The white paint i used is a polyurethane 2C product from HP textiles called IMC (in mould coating ) . It will connect with the following resin and glass so when the fuse exits the mould it will be like it's painted white...I hope !!? I'm going to let it cure for two days so it's hard for saturday . The second marathon starts 4pm ! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 Hi all ! As planned , the marathon started 4pm laminating the first layer , 50gr glass on top of the white paint , followed by 100gr glass. Sharp corners are filled with thickened resin.(before the glass ) The area's where the airex will not reach , get an extra layer 100gr. Next comes the airex , wetted with enough resin , the bleeder will absorb the exess. The airex is hold down with bolts , attracted by the magnets on the outside (bolts are easy to grab ) I also used self made clamps (drain pipe cut off's ) Next comes another layer of glass and some reinforcement layers where the tubes for wing and rudders come. That's it ! next comes perforated plastic to prevent the bleeder sticking to the resin. It's perforated to let the exess resin through into the bleeder , wich comes next before everything is slipped into the bag and vacuum is applyed So much for the pics....I was exhuasted and forgot the step by step promise... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 Curing overnight at 20 degr. i could stop the vacuumpump , take away the bag ,bleeder , plastic and inspect the result. It's 4pm now and i'm still recovering from a sleepless night (adrenaline is a strange substance ) but i could watch the newborn for hours . It looks like i want it to look ! Enjoy !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted November 29, 2021 Author Share Posted November 29, 2021 No time to waste ! I started to make the templates for the fuse formers while i still have access to the inside. Also trial fitted the thrust tube and its former The last thing i did was adding a little flat epoxy rest on the exhaust exit to accept the thrust tube And started the clean-up of the fuse edges 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 Speechless................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 Fingers crossed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 0° in sunny france so an excuse to read up the 25 pages here, I did buy a 2 metre kit with a fibreglass fuselage back in the early 80's which was sold as a slope soarer or IC powered, I did build it with an OS.45 fsr and air retracts, and it was a nice flyer,,, Ps not crashed but sold off,,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 Still following in ore of skill and dedication - A++ doesn't even come close ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted November 30, 2021 Share Posted November 30, 2021 Magnificent?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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