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Battery ejection - bad crash


Tony Kenny
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I heard about a battery being ejected from a 60 sized aerobat but was landed successfully. It seems that the freewheeling propeller generated enough power by turning the brushless motor into a generator and rectifying the current through the diodes in the speed controller which in turn fed the receiver just enough to keep the radio alive. That one was so lucky, who would have thought it was even possible.

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I have a WOTs WOT where the battery is taped to ply plat located by a Nylon screw on a keyhole shape hole.

At the top of a vigorous stall turn and vertical pull out I noticed the lipo hanging from its EC5 connector. As I gently tried to circle and loose height all was going well until the model was about 25ft off the deck. At that point the lipo disconnected itself and with a now massive rearward c of g the glide did not last long. Damaged but repairable and now use one of these to stop the plate sliding.

ww battery plug.jpg

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The Velcro straps in my models loop through 2 slots in the ply plate so they dont rely on glue. Then the Velcro straps also contact a Velcro patch on the lipo to stop sliding along.

After much use the velcro wears away a bit, so as it's just looped through it's easy to replace. ( easy if you have acess to the underside to thread new Velcro thro the slots - my models all have a hatch underneath for the ESC compartment)

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I've only lost the battery on a couple of models.

The first was a small foam biplane that had the battery fitted underneath. It just fell off! It must have been on the CoG because the now free-flight model gently circled to the best landing it ever enjoyed - better than under my so-called control!

The second was when I did a bunt with my Multiplex FunCub. It never completed the manouvre and floated to earth inverted and was recovered undamaged. I never found the battery but the cockpit/battery hatch was. It's still flying and I retain the battery with Velcro on the fuselage floor and a 2mm dia carbon rod pushed through above it. I've glued some snake inner into the sides for the rod to slide through.

On other models I only use genuine fairly expensive Velcro sticky-back hook and eye tape and add some glue (cyano) to keep it in place. The main purpose is to stop the battery sliding about - the main fix is a velcro strap round (usually) a ply battery tray. I'm confident the battery will only move if something serious happens to the model anyway!

Geoff

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Just going back to Tonys original post...

2) a small lipo backup for rx & control so I'll at least have control if this happens again.

I don't think adding a backup battery for continued stick inputs will do you any favours once your main flight battery has been released, the resultant change in CofG would be so gross you would no doubt be left with an uncontrollable airframe anway, no?

Definitely just focus on the improved strapping arrangement. thumbs up

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