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Electric Acro Wot ?


Jon
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Hi Jon, actually it isn't that big lol, but I am not really one to fly 10 - 12 times I find flying a social thing as well. But I do usually manage half a dozen flights. The setup I use is very simple and can be carried in a rucksack for simplicity.

The battery is not very big at all, I dare say if I flew the pack flat then I would not get so many charges but you would only have to up tha battery size. (and the rucksack LOL)

The charger is a modified variable voltage laptop power supply, available on Ebay for between £10 and £20. In theory you should fit a potentiometer and adjust the closest voltage setting to be exactly 21.6 and leave it at that, but mine put out 22.6 as one of the settings, so I accepted the slight overcharge, (which may potentially shorten battery life, though I have noticed no difference).

I charge through my Wattmeter, this then shows me the current, voltage and most importantly the Ah put back. Another good reason to have a wattmeter.

Watch the Amperage as soon as it starts to drop from 10A its nearly charged, within a minute or two it will drop to almost nothing. And thats your pack charged, remember to check the amount of charge it took before disconnecting, and off you go again.

http://forums.modelflying.co.uk/sites/3/images/member_albums/26349/DSC_0932_(Large).JPG


Hope this helps

Danny

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Hi Rob, I don't, I let it take whatever it wants just happens to be 10A, A123 would handle more though that is the limit of the laptop PSU. You have to consider your leisure cell too, 10A output at nearly 22 volts is almost 20A at 12 volts out of your leisure cell. Several propriatary chargers would complain of a low input voltage I am sure after a few cycles, but this isn't that clever, hence you having to watch the wattmeter, you don't want your A123 to charge your leisure cell

Cheers

Danny

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Hi Rob, I was pushing mine very hard, and you can barely  touch the heatsink when its running, it gets flaming hot! I did have visions of fitting it in a box with a cooling fan, I even bought the box and the fan from Maplins, just never bothered. I tended to make sure it was on top of my flight case out in the open. Its still going after two and a half years  

I cannot remember the wattage of the stock unit,  but I have a feeling it is 150 watt, Chris still has a spare one that was never dismantled, when he gets back off his business trip I will ask him if he can read the label and let us know.

Any others reading this thread, this route is not exactly safe as there are live wires floating around. if you are not happy and confident with what you are doing don't do it! This will also only work for 6 cell packs, but I tend to build to accomodate multiples of 6 in my models. Hurricane 2 x 6 in series, Fury 2 x 6 inparalell etc etc.

Cheers

Danny

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I have a spare 12v 110Ahc leisure battery which is in pretty good nick, I intend to use this at the field as my car's battery is so well hidden under the engine somewhere that I'm beginning to think it don't have one!

All I have at the moment is a IMAX B6 rated at 5A max so will just have to wait a little longer for the battery to charge... but I would like to invest in a better charger which could maybe make better use of the leisure battery and charge at 10A... 

I don't mind doing a few mods on a cheapo charger but not if it leaves me with worries about safety, this hobby to me is for pleasure and relaxation, I don't need any more stress thanks chaps! If you have any recommendations they would be gratefully received.

Jon

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Hi Jon, yes I do see what you mean, and that is why I added the disclaimer. It isn't as Heath Robinson a it appears, but I understand your concerns.

I had a look under the bonnet for mine once, I could see it......just. There was no way I was going to get leads on it though

If you want to pay £10 - £20 for a 10A charger then my method works. If you are okay to spend over £100 on a charger/balancer then the 1010B+ will charge at 10A 1010B+ It will also operate in balance mode for when you get home and want to balance the cells. I have a friend that has one and thinks its great.

That little 17Ah leisure batt of mine I can carry over to the field in a shoulder bag, you will struggle to do the same with that massive 110Ah one, you will have to resort to a wheeled trolley lol but you will be able to charge for many more cycles than me.

Cheers

Danny

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The 1010B+ is my current favourite - I did a review of the earlier version here some time back - The latest version is more stabel, has 300 Watt capability ( but requires at least 15V input to achieve this ) and can handle up to 10 Lithium based cells. maximum current ( again limited by overall wattage of 300 ) is up to 10A. Built in balancer with nice breakout multiway JSTXH balance board.

Its a beast, yet no larger than a typical 50 watt Imax. Its one cool charger, which has zillions of functions and lots of user set parameters to tweak things the way you want. At the moment, its all the charger you will ever need. There is a HUGE thread on RC groups which I have been active in over the last 12 months or so, and also I helped in a small way  to develop the required USB dingle adaptor needed for fitting your own USB port for firmware upgrades. This port is now fitted as standard on the 1010B (+) versions.

I have the manual here in PDF if you want it Jon.

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I have been reading things about it most of the day on various forums and web pages... well, yes, I'd love to have one BUT ! I have been unable to find out how I can get one on the National Health

so I think I might just make do with a slower charge for now. 

Is there not any ex-military stuff about that we could use/tweek for our benefit?

I'll have a word with an x-workmate friend of mine who's still working at Astrium Space Ltd.. there may be some ex SAT bits laying around... I know they have at times used large LiPos to store power while going round the dark side! but am unsure of the charging arrangements they used.

Jon

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  • 3 weeks later...
Had a try at getting the E-Acro in the air for the first time yesterday. My Instructor tested her out on the ground. Pleased to say it passed all the tests no problems.
 
By the time it was all completed the Rain & Wind just blew up right on "Q"
 
But the good news was that when the wife saw me pull into the drive I was able to say "Yes, its still in one piece"
 
Anyway now I can study the weather by following Timbos link (see forum Weather thread) I should be able to prejudge it a little better.
 
 
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  • 6 years later...

Hi all,

Just wondered if anyone has replaced a fuselage on a foam e Mk2, using a ripmax spare. I have a crashed acro foam e, as donated by a pal. I received everything but a fuse, so I have bought a new spare. My query is is that it came with a bag of 6 rectangular weights. Now from observing other acros I can see that they are not attached to the exterior, so must fit somewhere inside, I'm assuming tail end. Obviously I cannot glue the two halves of the body together until these are positioned. So do I build the complete model, without gluing on tail, rudder etc, checking the balence, splitting the fuse and adjusting the weights etc until balence is ok? Seems to be a bit of a trudge.

So if some kind person can give a clue, and how many of the weights might be a good starting point that would be brilliant.

Cheers for now, Geoff

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Hi Geoff. I rebuilt mine and didn't notice the weights till it was stuck together. Consequently I have added lead to the tail to balance the CG. I suggest a dry run assembly with everything stuck with masking tape and then add the weight squares to balance. My original fus had no weight inside but second needs a chunk of lead in a cut out by wheel. Are there spaces for weights in fus halves? This procedure should sort problem but is a pain as you say. Colin

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Hi Colin,

Was afraid of that, I'll just get on with it. I can't see any recesses inside at the tail. Somebody must have a crashed fuse to have a look, or perhaps my mate is the only one to have piled one in!

Happy days and thanks,

Geoff

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I'm at the Rc Hotel right now where i've been flying the Acro.

compared to the Artizan (which I have at Home) I would say it's more twitchy on full rates, but faster and more capable if you have the skill.

Also, apart from axial rolls, the Wot4 Foamie is just the same (as confirmed by Antonis the 3D expert Here who gave us a master class with the wot4)

They're all good planes whichever you go for.

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