Danny Fenton Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 thread all mountwhen you come to mounting the motor this is a very cheap and solid way of doing it.CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Reeves Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Hi JonJust to say that my Wot 4 "E" is powered by an E-flite power 46, but mine is turning an APC "E" 13x8, pulls 29A ( I think) on 4s 4400 and pulls the wot vertical. A 12 x 6 or 8 will be better on 5s, i hope to get some video of it soon and will post it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 Will look forward to seeing the video Phil...dont keep us waiting too long.... I will publish my readings when I get to that point but its a long way off yetLooks like a good idea for the fitting of a motor Danny and looks like it would allow for C of G adjustment by sliding the motor mount up or down the bolts... I take it you have had no vibration problems? Are the long bolts just bolted to the back board or are they longer than they look and held in place by 2 or more boards to stop any sideways movement? See it also allows some space for the ESC to sit and keep cool! As luck would have it, I have not needed to adjust the C of G on my E-Pioneer trainer...motor was mounted on a box with no posibility of adjustment but it just happend to be right for the C of G! but it is a nice firm fixing. My ESC was fitted behind the board where it dont get quite so much air flow.jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Always broke Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 I mount many of my motors with the same idea. I use 4mm studding with no problems at all. I know it looks like its not up to the job but it is and works really well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 14, 2008 Share Posted October 14, 2008 Hi Jon, the motor is mounted on the thread all for simplicity not to allow c of g adjustment, however it is infinitely adjustable as far as thrust lines go. Most people assume that the torque generated by a 12000 rpm ic engine spinning a 10 x 6 is the same as an electric motor spinning a 14 x 7 so being able to dial in a little more side thrust as reqd is useful. The plate you see with the threadall attached is 1/4 marine ply. I use 4mm steel bolts from B and Q for the smaller motors, up to 90 ic size, then 5mm for my bigger motors (90 - 150 sized).simply countersink the back of the ply and lock the bolts to the ply. then bolt the plate with threadall attached to the model, in this case it was directly to the same mounts as the ic mount attached. I can switch between ic and electric in minutes. Then mount the motor to the threadall using nylocs, this stope them moving out of adjustment when you don't want them to.The thread-all also gives a lovely cushion effect when it distorts if you do have an acident and can save the motor and even the shaft. I have never had any vibration effects on electric models so no there is no issue. What you do have to be aware of is that you do not make the thread all two long for its diameter. The shot below is as long as I would dare go on 5mm. The torque can be quite high when you are spinning bigger props around the 20 -24" mark and they can twist the mount, hence needing to use the heavier stuff.Here is another shot of the threadall mount on my YT Hurricane, This time 5mm threadall was used straight onto the 1/2 ply behind the fibreglass bulkhead. This set up drew 90A @ 35 volts under load, and swung a 21 x 10 prop, to say it was overpowered was an understatement.remember to insulate the threadall as those threads vibrating and chaffing through your motor or pack wires is not good CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 14, 2008 Author Share Posted October 14, 2008 Nice one Danny.... 90A @ 35volts ooooowhwerrr!!!! would not be a good idea to have any chaffing with that...... well ... you could do yer toast on it Thank you for the tips and ideas.... I cant wait to get started.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Foreman Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 Wow Danny thats 3150W! Guess that mount method will be fine for a 2000W 10lb Xtra Wot conversion Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 15, 2008 Share Posted October 15, 2008 Hi Tom yes, if you are going to be doing radical manouvres, such as prop hanging etc then I would go up on threaded rod size once again (6mm) just to be safe. With the Hurricane i am very gentle on the "GO" stick, certainly no rapid throttle ups thats for sure. I have reduced the power dramatically, (and upped the duration lol) by bringing the prop size down to 18 x 12 this gives me 1800 watts.CheersDanny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 15, 2008 Author Share Posted October 15, 2008 To big for me Danny.... just a bit more and you'll be booking slots at Heathrowjon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 16, 2008 Author Share Posted October 16, 2008 The first bits of my E-Acro Wot have arrived... its a fair size motor and looks very well made also now got the 80A ESC and prop etc.. don't it just make yer feel good when the bits start to show up at your front door.. but had to tear the prices off them rather quick before erh-in-doors saw the tickets..Anybody want me to post photo's etc as I progress along the build ? I wont post all the build only any mods I make or anything to do with the electrics, how to build an acro wot can be found in many other place's on the web.... unless you want it all that is?jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Always broke Posted October 16, 2008 Share Posted October 16, 2008 Its great when bits start ariving,gets you thinking about the build. Not long now then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 17, 2008 Author Share Posted October 17, 2008 Took the "A" test today and got a Pass.... The tester asked me to do a couple of loops just before the final landing.... a bit strange I was thinking but as I landed he said if you continue to fly like you just did your in for a great time over the rest of your life...Nice complement ... then after the questions he said sorry but I have to tell you that you'll no-longer be allowed to fly on a buddy link as you now have your "A" cert.Thanks to all of you for helping me get there.jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Always broke Posted October 17, 2008 Share Posted October 17, 2008 Big well done . Great feeling when you achieve what you want. Bet that was the most nervous flight you have had for a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 oh dear... I just took delivery of my first Acro Wot... This is all that was in the box! (see below)... I could not find a plane anywhere do you think it could have fell out of the boxWife to a look at it.....I said "all I have to do is put it together" with a bit of a grin on my face.She said "and where in the house do you think your going to do that" .... oooh!I said "It has to be a warm & dry place or the wood will warp" thinking that'll shut her up!She said " it wont be the only thing that will warp round here if you muck my house up again" .... oooh!Me thinks.. I need a nice new shed!...She said " and I dont want any more &8%$£*# sheds either"..... oooh! Note the holes in the wings are already made for the cables and servos.... found just one slight crack in a wing... little filler and all will be well... all other parts look to be in very good condition and the packaging was first class... Sent to me from Slough! jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Always broke Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 His kits are always good quality. That's one of the reasons he is still going. There used to be a thread with lots of little mods that made it fly much better. Included moving the position of the tailplane I think. Perhaps someone will have a link to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Stevens Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Note the holes in the wings are already made for the cables and servosThat's a nice touch - I had to bore mine out with a brass tube.I did a build thread on Flyingsites here Acrowot build and there is quite a bit on that site about mods though there is more on RCMF Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Reeves Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Hi Jon,just to say that I have fitted Hitec HS 81mg into the wings, a perfect fit for the holes provided and the give excellent torque nearly twice as much as a standard servo that used to be used in the centre of the wing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 cant seem to get my post up on here?<!--[if gte vml 1]><vhapetype id="_x0000_t75" coordsize="21600,21600" opt="75" oreferrelative="t" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" filled="f" stroked="f"> <vtroke joinstyle="miter"/> <v:formulas> <v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"/> <v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"/> <v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"/> <v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"/> <v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"/> <v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"/> <v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"/> <v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"/> <v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"/> <v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"/> <v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"/> <v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"/> </v:formulas> <vath o:extrusionok="f" gradientshapeok="t" o:connecttype="rect"/> <o:lock v:ext="edit" aspectratio="t"/> </vhapetype><vhape id="_x0000_i1027" type="#_x0000_t75" alt="" style='width:14.25pt; height:14.25pt'> <v:imagedata src="file:///C:\Users\JOHN&S~1\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtml1\01\clip_image001.gif" o:href="http://www.modelflying.co.uk/forum/smilies/thinking_smiley.gif"/> </vhape><![endif]--><!--[if !vml]--><!--[endif]--> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 i'll try once more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 Hi I have already read the "Acrowot Build" posts thanks Mike, its very helpful isn’t it ..... That’s why I pointed out the holes in the wings.... still waiting for the RCMF to allow me on the forum... The quality of the timber supplied A.B. is really good, just hope my workmanship is as good! have now started reading the build instructions....erh.. some WOT lesser quality than the parts I'd say I was going to ask about servo's and up pops Phil... thanks mate...did you mount yours on their side or what... I rather like the look of the small plastic servo covers used i as in Mikes link above... any idea where I can get them from? Need to give the internal layout a good bit of thought as I don’t need a gas tank etc and I only need 2 servos in there but do need to find room for the Lipos, ESC, RX plus its own battery-n-switch. Space is only one concern their position also needs thinking out due to both easy access and the C of G.... jon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Reeves Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 I have fitted mine with the control arm parrallel to the wing underside, just let in and epoxy some 1/4" square hardwood either end of the servo and screw the servo to that, mine extends 1/2" either side of the servo for strength. I personnaly do not like servo covers as it limits the inspections one can carry out before flight, the only time i use them is if the model has to belly land and it gives some protection to the arms or i mount them through the top of the wing.I am going to cut a hatch in the top deck, just forward of the canopy and just inside the cowl line, the cowl then acts as a locating guide / cover with the rear hatch partition cut at an angle to allow removal but dont cut the spruce longerons along the sides or you will loose a lot of strength in this area. You can buy very good hatch release catches from most outlets and they are quite easy to fit, i still have to do mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Mullins Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Im sure all the computory people out there perfectly understood all that HTML nonsense up there^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 22, 2008 Author Share Posted October 22, 2008 Can I pick your brains a little...it wont hurt....I note that the destruct-ions say to use PVA wood glue unless otherwise stated... Wot have you found best chaps?Also just realized the Glass U/C has no wheels in the kit but has 2 axle bolts... bit measly me thinks considering the price! Wot size wheels should I use chaps... I already have a couple which are 2" dia...which I could fit....progress status:- 2 Sides & all direct fittings are pinned & laid out ready for the glue..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Reeves Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 I used CA for all wood to wood joints and PVA for wood to foam on the wing panels, however PVA is fine for all work if you dont mind waiting. Epoxy for wing panel joints, this can also be used for the wing bandage and if you warm it up it flows better ( I use my hot air gun while spreading it, not too hot tho) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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