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Chilli Wind Built - up wing.


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I hadn't discounted a foam wing, I just didn't have a means of making one and when I looked at the cost it was quicker and cheaper for me to build one.

Since then I've had a bit of a dabble with foam cutting and if this project lives up to its reputation I've got an ASP 1.80 fs looking for a home and I'm toying with doing a scaled up version for it. I'm thinking of scaling it up by about 1.4 which should take me to about 80" span.

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I used 1/4 birch ply full depth brace on the main spar. as the main spar is swept back the brace is 1/4 thick at the root and feathered down to nil at the edges to match the Spar sweep back.

I intend to use fibre glass joiner. What a usually do is warm the resin and hardener in the microwave for about 15secs to make it really thin. When I apply the cloth and epoxy to the joint I cover it with some thick polythene and then squeegee all the excess epoxy out to the edges and remove it. This gives me a really light joint and doesn't sacrifice any strength. Leave it 24 hours and peel the polythene off and you get a finish like glass that needs no sanding.

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Hi Stuart,

The chilli wind plan and magazine article can be downloaded from Outerzone.co.uk alternately you can order plans for both chilli breeze and chilli wind from Sarikhobbies.com

I went for the Wind as I had an Irvine 53 looking for a home

Good luck with whatever you decide on

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Hey Alex, I have the plan and article for the Wind - I was thinking if I built the breeze I could do a better and more economical job of converting it to electric. ( I am starting up again after a break so have less gear lying around than I used to but DO have some 3 and 4 s packs and a couple of 40a speed controllers) ) I will order the Breeze plan from Sarik if I can't find a copy of the mag with the plan and article in though. fFankly I vacilate so much I suspect my build will only be truly decided when I start to cut some parts out. Once that happens, I will be off though

Thanks for the good wishes, and I will do a build diary when I get started - on one or the other Again, superb work on yours - really looking forward to seeing more of it when done.

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Looking good!

I have the chilli breeze which I built from the 1994 free plan a few years back. Flys very well, but it's a small thing and goes quite fast. I very very nearly lost it last summer as I looked away for a fraction of a second and could not find it in the sky after.

Mine is asp32 powered.

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I had an Irvine 36 in the Breeze ages ago. Flew the pants off it for a couple of years. Great combo. Was about 3-3/4lb dry. You could build an electric version to around 3-1/2lb, including lipo, quite easily I reckon. 450W would be about right.

My current Chilli Wind is electric. Has somewhere between 750W - 800W. Weighs 4-3/4lbs with lipo. Performance is excellent, endless vertical and great manners at low speed.

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Piers,

The lipo is 4S 5000mAh, but only a 20C variant. The motor is an Overlander 3548 - 900kv, which is no different to the Turnigy stuff I believe. Prop is an APC 11x8, gives a good turn of speed with the taps open, it is a good match to the airframe.

This setup draws about 50A at full throttle on the ground.

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Thank you Nigel, a very comprehensive answer. I already have a Turnigy 3548-840kv for 4s but I was considering using my Turnigy Propdrive 4250-500v for 6s as I have a few 6s LiPos. Judging by what you say in your post 6s may be over the top for this model - unless it was enlarged a tad. devil.

I am also looking at Peter Millers 'Little Miss Honky Tonk' in this months RCM&E as an electric conversion. In any event I must finish my Holi build before I get carried away with a new project. angel

Well done with maidening your Aerobat by the way, lets hope we get lots of great weather so that you can enjoy it.

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Thanks Piers I'm going tomorrow will be nice weather for a second go, I've balanced the prop and fitted the hatch and cowl in anticipation!

The Holi is a nice looking model. Get it finished! The late Derek Woodward had quite a knack for turning out pretty sport models. I've looked at his Bubbles a few times as well as Little Special.

The larger motor you have sounds asyou say like it might suit a slight enlargement. I guess it is a 50 or 60 class motor on 6s?
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Stuart, no doubt you have found the Chilli Breeze Electric thread but if not here is the link.

If you are looking for a suitable motor for the Chilli Breeze something like this might be suitable for 4S which I guess would make it fairly ballistic. If you are planning on a 3S setup then a similar motor with a 1000kv appx. would seem appropriate.  I am sure Steve Webb has something similar.

Just my 2p worth.

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 17/01/2019 13:47:35

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It's worth planning on moving the FW forward an inch or thereabouts, and extending the sides, in order to mount the motor in the right place.

As it's a long nose, a 3548 might be a bit heavy. I had to get the lipo quite a long way back to balance mine, which is the big one, with a 3548... A slightly lighter motor, the 3542 size, might be about right on the small one? I would personally choose a slightly smaller/faster prop for something like this, the 3542/1000kv on 4S with a 9x6 - would put you around 35A - close enough to start with? You could go to 10x4 if that was too quick at full throttle or didn't have the vertical pull. YMMV - this is just what I'd start on.

A front underside hatch works really well for lipo access on this one, as that's a flat bit of wood. The top is more awkward to cut into.

Mine has the ESC tucked above the lipo. The lipo is strapped to a ply plate (about an inch wide, running fore and aft) which is fixed about an inch away from the top deck. ESC can be passed in around the side of the plate in to the space above it. The cooling hole through the FW is next to the ESC.

The cowl on mine is permanent. Motor is fixed in place using a long screwdriver! Works fine in practice. The large spinner covers the motor access hole. That may not be so true on the smaller one.

 

Edited By Nigel R on 17/01/2019 15:15:29

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  • 1 year later...

Hi Tom,

There are a few places about that will make foam wings for you. If you haven't made a built up wing before I'd suggest you have a browse through some outerzone plans for a similar shaped wing and copy the general construction methods resized to suit your requirements. With regard to the rib set make a root and tip rib templates out of 1.5mm ply or similar and use the sandwich method to create your ribset.

Hope this helps

Alex

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You could design your own wing to Nigel's spec using the sandwich method.

Or you could down load Profili and find a suitable airfoil to match the Chilli shape. Then measure the length of each rib and print out a rib of each size needed.

But much easier just to find a suitable design on Outerzone that already has the ribs plotted and build the whole plane. Search for Joe Bridi on Outerzone and you will find plenty of well proven designs. Or look at Ultrasport 60 ( note that's a very different airfoil to Ultrasport 40 which is said to be not as good) and build the whole plane.   Maybe Southern Eagle would suit.

In each case it is possible to 'Tile Print' onto A4 if you could not get to a copy shop to print the Outerzone etc files.

You could get a foam wing for Chilli Wind cut by BillKits etc but foam wings seem quite expensive now.

 

Edited By kc on 22/04/2020 11:17:00

Edited By kc on 22/04/2020 11:19:35

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Thank you all for the contributions, I have now retrieved the drawing from the loft, and had a good look at the drawing. After studying it more, I think the sandwich method is doable. Once I set the centre line straight on both templates and pin them in place, I have a feeling I may get a result. All I need now is see what I can buy from balsa cabin.

thanks again

Tom

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I built a Chilli Breeze from the free plan in the mid 90s. I didn't like the sandwich method producing ribs for tapered wings because it always leaves too much of a bevel. I elected to write a computer program on my Atari to plot out ribs and print them on a dot matrix printer. Once printed out I spray mounted the printouts on 1/16 balsa can carefully cut around the outline. The result was better than I could have expected because it was one of the truest models I have flown. I installed an Irvine 36 which had a home made tuned pipe and the climb rate was stunning. I eventually sold it at the Watford swap-meet without the pipe. I wonder if this is the same one Nigel R mentions on page 2 of this thread.

A.

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Good stuff Tom, it's a great flyer, you won't regret making one.

Sandwich method is ok, just bear in mind you often need to rework the ribs LE and TE areas after making the rib stack.

Andy, I built mine when the plan came out, 1993? 1994? All my own work smiley and the best building I did when younger, got a nice straight model and it flew brilliantly. The 36 was a perfect match.

I use DevWing these days for rib plotting, although a lot of the features in it are overkill for what I do, and I probably should have bought Profili.

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