Chris Walby Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Hi LPP, Taking your suggestion I think you are right that the centre line is not shown on the drawing. If I take the various dihedral braces + the dowel plate and derive a new centre line then things look okay. Proof that we are correct is given by measuring the new wing span and calculating the with the wing dihedral of 3 degrees comes up with a wingspan of 54.09 inch. As the model is advertised as 54 inch I am happy we are close enough! Now next problem is that the small brace is not long enough to reach the second inboard rib so I am thinking of just moving the rib in a bit as per photo. Can anyone see a problem with that as I could just make a longer brace? Edited By Chris Walby on 05/03/2019 18:26:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 5, 2019 Share Posted March 5, 2019 Well done on sorting the issue Chris. I think moving the rib will be fine, the sheeting will help transfer loads Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Posted by Chris Walby on 05/03/2019 18:13:54: Hi LPP, Taking your suggestion I think you are right that the centre line is not shown on the drawing. If I take the various dihedral braces + the dowel plate and derive a new centre line then things look okay. Proof that we are correct is given by measuring the new wing span and calculating the with the wing dihedral of 3 degrees comes up with a wingspan of 54.09 inch. As the model is advertised as 54 inch I am happy we are close enough! Now next problem is that the small brace is not long enough to reach the second inboard rib so I am thinking of just moving the rib in a bit as per photo. Can anyone see a problem with that as I could just make a longer brace? Edited By Chris Walby on 05/03/2019 18:26:54 Looks like a plan Chris, well a slightly modified one anyway. Good job. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Nice ruler Chris. You can't have enough good tools. LPP Edited By Low pass Pete on 06/03/2019 06:49:15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lindsay Todd Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Gents image below is from the original plan sent into the mag, I have identified the centre line and position of first two ribs out, hope this helps clarify any irregularities found. Linds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony oneill 1 Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 Did a bit on the fuselage over the last few days. No real issues apart from re sizing the doublers at the very front in the engine bay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted March 6, 2019 Author Share Posted March 6, 2019 Lindsay many thanks for looking in, that appears to answer the questions. Tony your progress looks excellent. Could you start your own thread on it in this section, please? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 6, 2019 Share Posted March 6, 2019 RCM&E fly in this year at Buckminster on 14-15 Sept sounds a great idea and I'll make a weekend of it and camp up there. Flew there with the pylon boys a couple of years ago and it a good venue with plenty of facilities, just need some decent weather. Need to finish the model first, but if I haven't done that in 6 months I'll sit in the naughty corner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony oneill 1 Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 this might be a daft question, but as i am not looking for aerobatic performance and this model has long ailerons would it be better to shorten these to about 2/3rd length, or just fit as they are and reduce the control throws? just a thought if anyone wants to pitch in regards tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Leave length as plan and adjust throws to suit your style of flying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted March 22, 2019 Author Share Posted March 22, 2019 I agree with Ron as that's the choice that leaves your options open. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 +1 to stick with the plan...I don't know what the effects will be. Nice gentle plodder for me Could always add split ailerons, then you could really play around with all kinds of configurations.... Flaps, crow brakes etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony oneill 1 Posted March 22, 2019 Share Posted March 22, 2019 Thanks gents, looks like fit the ailerons full size and adjust the throws is the way to go. Thanks for the help. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 26, 2019 Share Posted March 26, 2019 Okay time to confess! Mistake No 1 Didn't use a single piece of wood for the elevators as at the time I couldn't work out the gap between each. No2 Servos in upside down and snakes fitted. No3 I haven't sheeted the wing, but fitted the dowels and more importantly the front dowel plate without the sheeting in place...I think this might be rework later on but I couldn't see how to fit them later once sheeted (perhaps sheet the top and then fit them) There might be more, just not found them yet...but there is still time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 Chris Ref your issues No 1 No problems with elevators. Just use wire joiner as per plan. However ref tailplane. Please ensure you join your 2 halves with a strong epoxy. Alternately remove the centre section and replace with a single piece. This would be much stronger. No 2 I would remove servos and snakes and reverse as per plan. Just smile and carry on. No 3 Make a centre section rib from 1/4in balsa and fit in the centre line. Sheet to this extra rib from each wing. This will have two bonuses. Extra strength and will make sheeting easier. One finished and covered all will be fine. Hope this is helpful. Do not despair. The great thing about balsa is that errors are simply put right. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 General points on the wing build. The plan is not specific on some points. Looking at the instructions and photos it seems that the original build did not have webs between the upper and lower spars. I personally intend to fit webs. I think this will add strength for a very small amount of extra weight. The plan does not say what thickness sheeting should be. I will use 1/16 as all my other builds. Cheers Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 General tip on build of tailplane The plan only shows one half of the tailplane. I would suggest that the centre section is cut in one piece so to be as one piece and not 2. Also would suggest to make lower cross part as one piece as well This will make the tailplane stronger. Always plan to avoid a joint where possible as joins are a potential weakness. Cheers Peter Edited By Low pass Pete on 27/03/2019 06:43:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 Hi, Too late for me regarding the tail plane, I will just glue mine on to its seat. I agree regarding making the horizontal in one piece as it would be stronger and no heavier. I am not intending to be hurling mine around so I don't think it will be that stressed (I have a Cougar 2000 and it has nothing like this amount of wood in its back end!). Mine is electric so there is an opportunity to come out light (well on target) as opposed to a lump of lead to get C of G. Given the choice I prefer models with low wing loading for pottering about. I was advised to use 1/8 on the wings as it only adds a little weight over C of G and will help to get a nice rounded shape when sanded (for us newbies at sheeting). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony oneill 1 Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 hi, i built both parts of the tailplane and added a packer between to widen them as i thought it was a bit short. then i built the elevator to suit the new dimension. it was about 10mm wider. on mine it just looked too close. it looks really strong and i too am just going to glue it to the seat. the drawing says build up around the fin with block so i am going to follow the suggestion of fitting a packer wrapped in tape between the blocks for easy removal after gluing. then i will shape the block and glue in the fin. i also noticed a mention of a small packing piece to build the end of the fuselage toward the bottom of the rudder to decrease the gap there. regards tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 Question for the knowledgeable For better or worse I built up the horizontal stabiliser in two parts and glued them together, now its possible to make the centre section and TE strip in single pieces (would have been helpful to have mentioned this in the build instructions or on the drawing, but hey oh). Before I go to the aggravation of gluing it on to the fuselage I would like to know what the considered view is Is there sufficient strength with it joined and glued to the fuselage/packing piece and encased with soft balsa? A couple of photos showing the horizontal stabiliser and the top section of the fuselage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted March 27, 2019 Share Posted March 27, 2019 I've just seen this thread - I posted about my concern about this area in your build thread, Chris. The trailing edge member is probably the most important and crosses the smallest part of the fuselage. Could you inset a 4 inch 1/4" square (6mm if you prefer) spruce joiner epoxied across the joint in the trailing edge piece? Edited By Martin Harris on 27/03/2019 22:40:56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Chris My advice would be do not chance it. The tailplane is about the most crucial part of the plane. Martins advice is sound and what I would do if in the same situation. I probably would have a couple of 1/4 spruce joiners one at the rear and the second positioned to get max length. If you did not use epoxy to join the tailplane initially I personally would be tempted to rebuild. Hope this is helpful Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Cheers, Back to the building board, rather disappointing there were no words on the drawing or it showing the full tail plane especially as the is another model tail depicted on the same sheet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 28, 2019 Share Posted March 28, 2019 Good choice Chris. Plans are sometimes not as clear as they could be. The free plans sometimes are not very specific and some are better than others. Always think how to build strength and avoid joints. In time you get a feel for something not right. All part of the experience. Good luck and press on mate. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony oneill 1 Posted March 31, 2019 Share Posted March 31, 2019 Hi all, found these in morrisons today, stainless steel straws about 5mm in diameter. I thought these would be great for exhaust pipe mock ups or something. Four for £2.50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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