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Chris Mass Build thread - Renaissance


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Hi RG, I am with you and will get some 1.5 mm and 2 mm for the respective areas.

I spotted the snakes go through the rear fuselage sheets so I'll have to move them about to get them into the right place before anymore sheeting.

I have reread the article and its a bit confusing so I am going with pinning the wings down the right way up with wingtip blocks + the washout ones and sheet the top surface.

Not sure if or how much I need to sheet the underside as I can't find a photo for that.

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Chris if you look at the plan area that shows a cross section of the wing it shows 1.5mm sheeting all round the wing but also note that the upperview of the wing shows a fairly typical sheeted front and rear area and therefore the ribs would have cap strips about 1/4 in or so. The sheeted areas (inboard and outboard)have circular finish. Also you need webs between each rib from top spar to lower spars.

I also have had no 1.5mm in my wood pack and will have to purchase that. I am not impressed with the wood pack as it is no where near complete and requires much stripping for 1/4 X 1/2 for the rear tails etc.

The pre-cut parts have been generally ok ish but the cores for the elevators were too wide by 1/2 in and I have simply trimmed these to suit the plan.

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Doh, Just realised that I have mounted the elevator and rudder servos upside down + aligned the snakes to suit. Well the Gruffalo is just going to have to sit on the servo arms and lump it! Only ting I noticed is the 3mm lite ply the servos sit in is very flexible + not much "meat" on the front edge so beefing up will be needed.

I'll put a false floor/seat for him + it will allow me to adjust the servo arms/clevis with the wing in place!

I am working out what needs to be sanded in preparation for sheeting the fuselage and wing

Pete, thanks for the info

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Doh, Just realised that I have mounted the elevator and rudder servos upside down + aligned the snakes to suit. Well the Gruffalo is just going to have to sit on the servo arms and lump it! Only ting I noticed is the 3mm lite ply the servos sit in is very flexible + not much "meat" on the front edge so beefing up will be needed.

I'll put a false floor/seat for him + it will allow me to adjust the servo arms/clevis with the wing in place!

I am working out what needs to be sanded in preparation for sheeting the fuselage and wing

Pete, thanks for the info

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Just an observation but do the tail components come pre-cut?

I would always prefer to make the parts that go across the middle (and I'd agree that's the centre line on the plan going by the long-short-long-short dash format) from single pieces and I'd suggest that might have been the designer's intention? There is no edge shown on the plan for the component marked "6mm medium balsa" along that centre line.

Although modern glues are pretty strong, it's normally good practice to make scarf joints if load bearing components need to be joined to avoid weakening the components with stress raisers...witness reported tailplane failures on ARTFs where people have scored the wood when cutting through covering along the fuselage line for glueing.

Edit: Maybe the trailing edge is one piece?  I can't see from the photo but if it is it will certainly improve the situation.

Edited By Martin Harris on 27/03/2019 17:02:11

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  • 1 month later...

After distracting myself I am now back on the building board, well the Renaissance is and I am making a bit of progress.

Horizontal stab remade and upper wings sheeted. All blocked up and the dihedral/washout have stayed put so a result...I might be able to mess that up when I cover them.

20190428_181655.jpg Before anyone says anything the hoz/vert stab are not fixed..yet I'll follow others an cover it first, then fix in place.

Might even be a good idea to cover the fuselage as well then fix them as trying to get an iron around curves will be hell (for me!)

I am struggling to see the point of cutting holes in the wings across only some of the ribs...yes do all to save weight, but like 5 bays around the C of G won't change anything will it?

Still loads to do like sheeting the underside of the wing and sorting the nose/cowl out, but its coming along.

I think I am going for the "Acrowot" U/C fixing type where I use a spacer and Nylon screws should it get lumped down (not me honest, but I don't have a trainer anymore!).

Better book the fly-in tickets wink

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She's looking good Chris

"I am struggling to see the point of cutting holes in the wings across only some of the ribs...yes do all to save weight, but like 5 bays around the C of G won't change anything will it?"

Ribs are usually a small percentage (about 10%) of overall wing weight, the star player is the sheeting with the co-star role going to any solid lumps like strip ailerons, spars and LE/TE. Cutting a couple of holes in the ribs makes very little difference to anything. Choosing good sheet is the first thing to attend to!

In a similar vein, spar webs weigh next to nothing, but stiffen up a wing structure immeasurably.

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Nigel,

I am using my kit from my BH Speed Air Overlander 900KV 710W 3548/05 3 to 6S 11 x 8 prop 80A ESC, but might prop down as the BH SA was larger.

I have some 4S5000 I could use, but if they don't physically fit some 4S3300 instead.

Hope that helps

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Wing now fully sheeted and about to be covered!

Advice please as to how to deal with the wing tips!

I have seen the Solarfilm video on covering, but I can't get my head around the TE bit.

20190504_192028.jpg

Should I cover as is or put a little tapered rib so I can wrap the covering in towards the inside edge (bottom right photo corner?

Working on the U/C next and the fuselage unless I have a mad moment, tidy up, Hoover around and get the covering out!

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The wing tip on my Wiggo build didn't turn out to well until I added a small tapered rib near the leading edge. There was already one near the trailing edge. I wouldn't hesitate to add an extra rib or two.

This is how it initially looked:

wc 001.jpg

Then I added an extra rib

wc 003.jpg

It looks much better now

wc 004.jpg

Edited By Steven Shaw on 05/05/2019 13:27:52

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  • 1 month later...

Advice please as this covering thing is driving me a bit nuts! Watched the Solarfilm video and have had three more goes without success!

20190701_214754.jpg

So looks like I need to add say three more ribs or should I just make a TE & LE block?

Or shall I just make the tip out of solid!

What's the best way of getting the old HK film glue off the balsa as everything is just getting too sticky!

PS am I right in covering the wing tip first and then the wing after that...

PPS and advice on the fuselage apart from bottom then sides and finish with top (as such)?

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  • 4 weeks later...

My pilot is requesting control throws, while I get on with the finishing touches?

gruffalo control checks.jpg


Have I missed something as I can't see them on the plans,

He has the option of low medium and high rates and doesn't mind expo.

Plus any ideas as to how to make the wind screen for him (material & how to fit it) cheers

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Hi Chris, on mine i have about 25mm rudder and elevator but have not measured it. The aelerons are a lot less about 15 mm. The windscreen was cut from a shirt box which is a thin plastic like really thin perspex. I played about with a paper template first then cut the plastic. To fix it i put small screws through the sides then shaped where it touches the fuselage with 3 small screws at an angle and just clipped the plastic behind them.

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Hi Chris

Yes, I do all 'odd' bits like wingtips first.

Yes, I do fuselage bottom, then sides, then top. All after odd bits like around control rod exits...

Mind you, im not going to be entering any Concors events with any of mine so others may have better advice

GG

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Update time laugh as I needed some fresh air and certain things are easier at the field!

My set up is 4S5000 and that gets me very close to C of G so looking good as my other option was 4S3300 which I have spare lipos although it would have given me shorter flight times.

Weight came out at just over 2.5 Kg and running a 12 x 6 prop pulls 45A and 665W. Power to weight looks like 266 W/Kg or 121 W/lb so I should be pottering around at half throttle with luck.

Thanks Tony for the screen advice, worked a treat although my sheet seems very thin so it might not last too long. I'll just keep a lookout for something more suitable.

I think many people won't like it, but if it flies well and the Scouts get a laugh, I'll be happy + I need the practice (and a lot more needed) to try out different techniques all be it rather poorly executed

20190729_185437.jpg

PS - Photo pre screen and battery cover

Just need to sort throws, do failsafe, range check, get it checked over and it will be ready to go!

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