cymaz Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Master class in building....top job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 9, 2019 Share Posted March 9, 2019 Good day everyone. I have just completed and flown my Seagull Chippy. Mine has an OS120 4 stroke for power with a just Engines turbo Header for exhaust. I balanced her as per plan. Virtually no trim required on test flight at all. Looks to be a super flyer and only needs the power of the 120 very little of the time. I found no issue at all with weight of tail but I suppose if going electric it may well be more of an issue. I am impressed with the flying qualities of the aircraft and deploying the flaps brings virtually no trim change which was very surprising. The aircraft will fly nicely at a more scale speed. Best Regards Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 9, 2019 Author Share Posted March 9, 2019 Cheers chaps. Good to hear Peter, that confirms the thoughts of the guys on RCGroups. What weight did yours come in at, and where is the C of G, if you don't mind me asking? The fact that the model is electric, has no bearing on needing to be light, the lighter the model the slower it will fly. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Hi Danny. C of G on mine is set as per build instructions (130mm). Have not actually weighed her but she needed no ballast. Receiver battery was mounted on the plate just rear of the fuel tank. I swopped the kit fuel tank for a Dubro one. Also I have a small 2s Lipo fitted to supply the landing lights with an electronic switch. Otherwise as per kit. save for a repaint on the kit supplied pilots to improve their look. They were not the best but do look better now. Chris Bott also has a Forum post ref C of G by the way. Cheers Peter Edited By Low pass Pete on 10/03/2019 06:06:52 Edited By Low pass Pete on 10/03/2019 06:08:29 Edited By Low pass Pete on 10/03/2019 06:11:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich too Posted March 10, 2019 Share Posted March 10, 2019 Posted by Wingman on 08/03/2019 21:12:33: Oh dear Oh dear! What a kerfuffle. It's a Seagull ARTF - they are all good flyers straight out of the box in my experience and almost Hangar 9 quality and it's to be used for flying only comps you say - it's a chipmunk so sedate to moderate flying is the order of the day and weight won't matter as regards a pound or so - looks to me like OCD is creeping in here or is it a guilty conscience for not building a competition model from scratch?? Edited By Wingman on 08/03/2019 21:14:52 My.thoughts too initially. However, if it saves 1/2 pound of lead in the nose it is absolutely the best thing to do. Well done to Danny for putting the extra work in - I would have taken the easy option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Thanks Rich, I was very tempted to take the easy route. Chris Bott and I fly at the same club, and have identical setups motor, servos radio etc. So we will no doubt have a go on each others model so we will see what a difference it makes. Apart from 3 days extra work, i am pleased with the outcome. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Spent a very pleasant couple of hours last evening with pizza and beer setting up my new X10 with Chris Bott. We flashed my X10 to the latest firmware, and then we copied Chris's setup from his X12S to my Companion software, I then copied the model into my Tx, the software realised the Tx's were different and converted the file. I then copied the config to the Tx. The reason you do it this way is to avoid copying Chris's Tx callibration. Some of the sensors, Volta, Amps, Alt etc needing re-discovering but after 30 minutes I had an identical config to Chris's. Awesome radio. Chris makes these sensor boards, based around an Arduino processor, he also has designed this really nifty power board which allows dual power feeds for your Rx, if one fails the other will take the load. A clever cahp is Chris! Chris has an article on the sensor board coming up in a future issue of RCM&E, should be good! Chris is helping to put the "E" back in RCM&E, well done Chris, and thanks! Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2019 Author Share Posted March 10, 2019 Okay was it worth three days effort? Maybe not, but it is done, I will cover the bits and move on I was going to use Robarts with a recessed hinge and shrouds, hence the slots on the left elevator, but I climbed back from the brink, and fitted the fluffy mylar hinges All good fun, which is all that matters. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Thanks for your thoughts and insight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 Feeling a little under the weather, probably another cold.... sigh. Anyway it has meant my enthusiasm has waned a little. Anyway I hate iron on covering, so thought I would get that nasty job out of the way. Not as keen on Oracover as others it seems, but it is done now. weight difference is interesting, if you consider that the distance from the tailplane to the C of G is 3 times the distance to the area where weight could be added to the nose. therefore the saving of 100g equates to 300g of nose weight removed, plus the 100g lost at the tail. So a 400g saving overall. I think that will alter the flight envelope noticeably, but a comaparison to Chris's will tell us. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 12, 2019 Share Posted March 12, 2019 You 'll get well soon now, Danny. Now that the nasty covering job is behind you... I suppose you're going to choose for RDS servo installation for your ailerons now as well? ... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2019 Author Share Posted March 12, 2019 Now there is a great idea....... but no I need to get back to the fury Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 This is a first, radio, esc and servos in the fus before the tailplane is on! ah well seemed easier than bashing the tail on the walls/ceiling This is one of Chris Botts telem units. There will be an article in RCM&E about making one of these, I cheated and got Chris to do mine. He even designs the circuit board! Anyway this gives, volts, current Mah consumed, cell voltages even altitude. Clever chap is Chris. Here is the Rx in the model, it sits plugged into one of Chris's dual power feed boards, the board accepts power and feeds it directly to the servos not via the Rx, if you need to disconnect the Rx it just slides back. All the servo wires remain attached to the power board. I simply copied Chris's entire Chippy file into my new X10 via Companion, and everything is all set up, sticky throttle, aileron differential etc etc. A question, I guess for LPP, how did you free up the wing tubes, they are as stiff as anything on mine and Chris's Chippys? We have sanded the tubes in the wing, and it has got better, but still too stiff to get the model apart easily. I had to pry my wings off with a steel ruler wedged between the wing and the wing root fairing! Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Danny. One quick look at that screen shot above and I see a programming mistake. Somehow we've ended up with some flap compensation with the wrong source. The + line just below CH3 is adding to the elevator, but it's sourced from rudder! Thankfully the amount is zero % so it will have no effect. Needs fixing though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 Well spotted Chris, yours is wrong too then Just laser levelled the model with the wings attached, aligned to the wing tips, and then the horizontal stab. a little sanding to get it spot on, then some epoxy to fix in place. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted March 14, 2019 Share Posted March 14, 2019 Re: the tight wing joiner, I was recommended this a while back: Link it works well with brass box/steel blade joiners, but I haven’t tried it with other materials. HTH Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 14, 2019 Author Share Posted March 14, 2019 Thanks Trevor, worth a shot. I have tried a silicone dry lube, but alas that didnt help. I have reached out to the manufacturer, as Chris and I cannot be the only ones seeing the issue? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Low pass Pete Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 Ref wing joiner stiffness. Mine was also very stiff. I have left it installed on the most stiff side as the other one releases ok. Strikes me that the builders had not matched the components and just packed them and sent the kits on their way. Most unlike Seagull. I found that rotating it back and forth on each wing panel helped to ease it off by the way. Cheers Peter Edited By Low pass Pete on 15/03/2019 07:47:18 Edited By Low pass Pete on 15/03/2019 07:48:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 15, 2019 Author Share Posted March 15, 2019 Thanks Peter, no amount of sanding is getting either of mine loose enough to get apart. Twisting gets it apart, but you have nothing to hold and twist. I may devise a sort of reverse wing bolt in the fus. As you tighten, it pushes the wing off. Very annoying. If i sand anymore tube away it will be too weak. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C. Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 Don't know if this is any help but years ago I used to fly thermal soarers built with aly tube wing spars and round steel or aly joiners 'depending on wind strength'. These had a nasty habit of sticking as well, sanding was never very successful for some reason but using abrasive paste worked well. Fine valve grinding paste and braso worked best, I can only think that it cleaned up any high spots. Best of luck, Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 Danny, Aluminium surrounds us, but some of these tubes are the least friendly alloy They appear to be light weight and stiff, but unbelievably, they are soft, relative to Aluminium They look like a cheap alloy, and do grip, because of the surface I have changed smaller models to carbon tube But in your case, roughing up the inner fibreglass tube is just giving more grip Polish the wing tubes with fine wet and dry, used wet with soap Just wipe the wet and dry on a bar of soap or a drop of wash up liquid, then wet the lot Edited By Denis Watkins on 15/03/2019 11:32:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 Try shoe polish and buff it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ASH. Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 Graphite has been suggested for tight pushrods, it may work for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 15, 2019 Share Posted March 15, 2019 Denis' polishing trick gets very close as it brings back a 'glass'-type surface. Next a light spray of PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene). PTFE has the second lowest coefficient of friction of any solid on our planet. The lowest simply being ice. I use the Würth brand, but there are some others around. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.