Martin Gay Posted October 13, 2019 Author Share Posted October 13, 2019 Hi Andy, I cut all my planks to 1/4" wide for both Sabres which seemed to work well. Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Beard Posted October 13, 2019 Share Posted October 13, 2019 Martin, I bought some 48 inch long sheeting on advice from the group so that I can go from end to end, I take it the 1/4 inch planking still works for that also. All the Best Phil Beard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted October 13, 2019 Author Share Posted October 13, 2019 Phil, The Gamma build used 48" long balsa cut to 1/4" wide strips. It was easier, and looked neater, than the shorter planks on the prototype model. Edited By Martin Gay on 13/10/2019 20:04:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Austin Massey Posted October 17, 2019 Share Posted October 17, 2019 Hi Martin, thanks for the build info. I would still be sat staring at the plans without it. My method of keeping the jig true and steady is to glue it to a piece of worktop. This frees up my building board for the fuselage (a bit of multi-tasking coming up). I've started early because I'm an old Duffer who takes his time. I've shaped the wing skins and marked them up. Time to start gluing. I tried to add a photo but failed..... so much to learn... Austin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 18, 2019 Share Posted October 18, 2019 I've just been musing about planking (note the spelling), and have realised that in reality I am due another lost foam fibreglass fuselage, but it is too late now as I have bought the kit of parts, so if anyone wants a kit of parts, I am prepared to have a crack at it. Let me know. You can have it for the same cost as I paid, less the cost of the plan which I think is £10 which obviously I need. I think this really lends itself to a fibreglass fuselage. Actually delete that as I realise I need the parts for the wing, so will have to keep thinking..hmmm.... will see how many parts I will be wasting - actually I can use the formers for inside the fuselage instead - brilliant...yes..hmm..(can hear cogs whirring...)..yes indeed, I think we have a plan Holmes.... Edited By Peter Garsden on 18/10/2019 09:12:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted October 18, 2019 Author Share Posted October 18, 2019 Hi Pete, You could frame up the fuselage sides and then add foam blocks. These could be hollowed out from the inside and fibreglassed on the outside. Once cured, melt the remaining foam out. I look forward to hearing how it all goes but don't forget the model was designed to use a 3mm balsa skin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 22, 2019 Share Posted October 22, 2019 Thanks Martin, having done this before a few times, I think that this will only work as a true lost foam fuselage. I will cut out the foam from top and bottom and left and right with a hot wire then sand it to shape. I won't need all the formers, probably just front and back. One has to put the formers in from inside out which is difficult, but in reality, with fibreglass they are not really needed as the structure is itself strong enough. I will use carbon and kevlar to strengthen high stressed areas. You will see what I mean when I start my blog. I am sure I have seen fibreglass fuselage versions of the Sabre before,and it will be as strong as a brick ****house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted October 22, 2019 Author Share Posted October 22, 2019 If you are going that route Peter, are you going to take an extra mould of the back ends and use them to make the speed brakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Garsden Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Speed brakes.....mm....looked at them and have no idea how I would operate them. Will think about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyer Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 Posted by Peter Garsden on 23/10/2019 20:45:37: Speed brakes.....mm....looked at them and have no idea how I would operate them. Will think about it. Trying to work on that at the moment Peter; watch this space! Ade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John H. Rood Posted October 23, 2019 Share Posted October 23, 2019 "Gentlemen, now that I have your attention, direct your gaze now toward this fabulous speed brake gizmo..." --- Miss NAA Sabre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Twist Posted November 1, 2019 Share Posted November 1, 2019 Hi Martin, pls could you advise, I'm trying to get my head around preparing the lower wing skins. Is it 2 X 3" wide sheets step jointed/ optimised to cover the main area, plus a little bit more thickness added at the wing root area to get full chord depth? Plus is the wing sheet joint roughly parallel to the main spar? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 1, 2019 Author Share Posted November 1, 2019 Hi Harry, I cut one sheet with the grain parallel to the leading edge and one sheet with the grain parallel to the trailing edge. The remaining part of the skin near the wing root had another piece added with the grain roughly in the root to rip direction. My main joint ended up slightly behind the spar. See photo. Edited By Martin Gay on 01/11/2019 22:25:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Hi Martin, I'm making a start on my fuselage. The way the tabs have been cut on the wing bolt plate WP1, the plate doesn't touch F7 when inserted into F14. I suspect the intention was for the tabs to be further forward so that it does touch F7, as shown on the fuselage side view. I am inclined to leave the slots in F14 as they are and just cut off some of the tabs at the rear of WP1 to slide it further back. Is this correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 Hi Steve, That would work. How big is the gap? Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Houghton Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Thanks Martin, The gap is only 3/16". I'll probably cut it from the back of the tab and epoxy it to the front, just to fill the gap in F14. Everything else is fitting nicely, with just a little dressing. Great work! Edited By Steve Houghton on 02/11/2019 19:10:43 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry Twist Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Hi Martin, thanks for your reply. Sorted the wing skin I think! Careful measuring and cutting gets a lower wing skin for one side from 2 x 3" x 36 " sheets. Thanks Edited By Harry Twist on 02/11/2019 21:46:16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 2, 2019 Author Share Posted November 2, 2019 Harry, I did say I was balsa miser and don't like wasting the stuff! Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Beard Posted November 4, 2019 Share Posted November 4, 2019 Martin, I'm just starting the build of the wing and have noticed at the front between R3 port to R3 stbd their is a 4.76mm thick piece of ply. Is the shape of this defined anywhere or do you just fit a piece in place and sand to suitable section but I do see we need dowel holes placed in this also. Any photos you may have of this would be grateful. Also and photos of how you installed the servos would be good as well. All the Best Phil B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 Hi Martin, Following Phil's advice - and as nobody answers on my build thread - I would like to post some questions here > - following Phil’s advice, I’m making my lower wing sheets with an extra 10mm at the LE, wing tip and TE. Assuming they are the same, can I prepare my upper wing sheets now while the wing plan is still on the board? - regarding the servo wires for flaps & elevators I don’t see any provisions for those - paper tubes, straws or just holes – in the build threads so far. Shouldn’t it be easier to have some holes in the ribs before gluing them in? Apologies for interfering with your thread. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 11, 2019 Author Share Posted November 11, 2019 Chris, There are holes in each wing rib. They are big enough to run two sets of servo wires through. If you want, you can enlarge the holes for tubes or straws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted November 12, 2019 Share Posted November 12, 2019 Thank you for your answer, Martin. I guess I'll put some tubing in then as I prefer to be able to replace the electric bits easily. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 13, 2019 Author Share Posted November 13, 2019 Wing Servos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 13, 2019 Author Share Posted November 13, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Gay Posted November 13, 2019 Author Share Posted November 13, 2019 Closed loop rudder wire installation. We chose to run two snake outers to carry the wires. There are guide holes in the fuselage formers, but not all of them are required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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