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F86 "Gamma" Build


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  • 2 months later...

Peter,

Yes. I moved the CG back as ypu mentioned. When I measured the tailplane/wing incidence angle I found it to be 0:0 as best I could measure.

This gave a me a much better feel on the sticks, but I like a more neutral feel to my models.

You can always move the CG forward for the maiden flight!

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Thanks Martin. As you can see from my blog, I am finished and ready to maiden. It has turned out, however a tad heavy at 4.5lbs. Just trying to work out the wing loading, so what is the wing surface area please for calculation purposes. I note that mine is 8oz heavier than the prototype. It will however fly faster in a high wind (he said??)

Edited By Peter Garsden on 04/04/2020 19:02:24

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Martin

Your building blog has been of great help, however I am in need of a little advice. As my F-86 will soon be ready for covering I have decided to go with glass cloth, could you please tell me the date of the RCM&E that contained that article. Also I have never used or heard of a magnetic switch, Peter has given a link for these so I will give one a go. Any advice on using or installing one, would be appreciated. I believe that you have set up your F-86 with 0 incidence on your wing and tailplane, have you been able to test fly your plane with these settings?

Looking forward to joining in on one of your PSS events next year, will hopefully bring along my F-86. Thank you for your advice and time, Dallas Crisp Brisbane Australia.

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Hi Dallas,

I'm glad the blog was of some help.

To answer your questions:

There was an article on how to fibreglass in the 2019 Special Edition of RCM&E - this is the most recent one. If you have any questions about the various techniques please feel free to ask as there is a wealth of experience on this site. However, you will get lots of apparently contradictory answers, as we all have our own methods. For instance, I prefer to fill the weave of the cloth with "diamond hard" varnish whilst others add another layer of resin!

On the prototype, and Gamma build Sabres, I have used this magnetic switch from Hyperflight:

**LINK**

I have hot glued it to the inside of the fuselage and connect it up before fitting the wing. When I remove the wing again I disconnect it as it will slowly drain the rx battery if left connected - please don't ask how I know!

The wing/tail incidence was measured after I had got the model flying just the way I liked. Being all an moving tail made life very easy with respect to trimming. The CG on the plan makes the model safe to fly, but slightly nose heavy for my preferred flying style which is why I moved it back to 172mm from the back of F4. It could go back a bit more, but I recommend starting at the plan position.

We all look forward to seeing you at one of the PSS events in UK. If you cannot bring a model with you, don't worry as I will be happy to set up the buddy box - I have both Mode 1 and Mode 2 available.

Martin.

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Hi Martin

Thank you for your reply, I will order a magnetic switch from your link. It just shows that the old saying is true, that you are never too old to learn. My wife and I spend six months of the year on a small island (Norfolk Island )about thousand miles off the east coast of Australia, this is where I do all my slope soaring. There are only two of us that regularly slope soar. It is a beautiful island and home to the descendants of the Mutineers from the Bounty. If you ever have a chance to visit we would love to take you slope soaring, and be assured that the Mutineers will not set you adrift in a boat.

Again thank you for your time Dallas Crisp

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Martin, I'm looking for a canopy. I've been on Vortex Vacforms website but don't see a Sabre one. Did I see somewhere that the P51 canopy was adapted? Also, I need a head and shoulders Korean War USAF pilot. I would be very grateful if you can advise.

If it's true that you learn by your mistakes I'll be a genius at the end of this build.

Cheers,

Austin

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Hi Austin,

The canopy for the Sabre does not yet appear on the Vortex-Vacforms website.

Order "CN3 Sabre" from Vortex as per the plan. I guess the company is in lockdown at the moment so there may be a delay on getting a canopy.

I usually buy my pilots from "Real Model Pilots" but they can be a bit pricey. Drop Andy Meade a line - he may be able to print a pilot figure. He did a great job printing the ejection seats for me.

Martin.

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Hi Austin

Another pilot option is the one by Freewing recommended to me by Chris. It cost €5 plus postage from MotionRC -

Here is a link:

https://www.motionrc.eu/collections/pilot-figures/products/freewing-pilot-figure-16

img_1788.jpeg

Here he is in my plane

img_2195.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted by Austin Massey 1 on 04/06/2020 19:47:41:

Martin,

I'm not getting any response from Vortex Vacforms about the canopy. Any ideas?

Austin

I may have a spare canopy Austin, I think Vortex told me I had the last one as the supply of PETG has been affected, and there is a huge shortage.

If you want it, let me know.

cheers

Ade

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just had notification from Steve Davis at Vortex Vacforms to explain he now once again has stock of 1mm PETG material (following a forced break in canopy supply due to all the available material stock being aligned to the manufacture of NHS facemasks).

This means he can once again supply canopies for the Sabre if anyone here is desperately waiting for one to finish their new creation!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Martin,

I'm not far off the glassing stage and need a bit of advice on procedure. I'm not bad at glassing but it's the sequence I'm not sure of. Do I do the little bits like the bump in front of the canopy, the elevator cheeks, the rear fuselage, etc. independently, then the main fuselage in 2 halves lapping over the little bits?

Any advice appreciated,

Cheers,

Austin

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Hi Austin,

It is best in practice to try and minimise the panels as each overlapping edge needs sanding back and this can be quite a bit of work dependant on the amount of resin used and the location of the join.

If you see Dirk's blog he managed it in just 2 panels - one each side, including the fin.

This is the standard to which we all aspire, but us mere mortals will have to tackle it slightly differently.

Personally, Im doing a panel each side for just the fin and the dorsal spine. Then a side panel per side which will run to the top centreline but only as far down as the wing seat and fillet. So thats already 4 panels. Then finally 2 bottom panels, front and rear of the wing. So thats 6 panels in total. And of course 6 separate glassing sessions - so a weeks work with drying time (assume you are using resin and not Poly C?)

There are some great glassing guides in RCM&E back issues, Danny Fenton on here has produced a couple of good articles - I can perhaps find the link for you.

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Hi Austin,

I did my last Sabre fuselage in two pieces - one each side with an overlap. The fin was not yet glued to the fuselage so that made life easier.

The intake and exhaust were done using small pieces and the wing and tailplanes were done in two parts - undersides then top sides with an overlap at the leading edges. Ailerons and flaps were done the same as the wings.

My preferred method is to lay the dry fibreglass onto the part and pour some mixed resin onto it. I then use an old credit card/amazon gift card to squeegee the resin over the fibreglass. A brush can be used to add small drops of resin onto any dry patches. Usually it takes me about 15-20 minutes to complete a side.

Martin.

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