dirk tinck Posted March 24, 2020 Author Share Posted March 24, 2020 Thanks Phil , now that we have some time to spend (I wish i hadn't ) i'm glad i can workout some details ! I really love this part of the build. I know it looks rather complicated but i'll try to post some explanation of the hole system.Today i worked my way around the weight -loss problem with a simple solution:more tomorrow Stay tuned ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 I'm looking forward to your Ejection Seat Manual, Dirk. Meanwhile, allow me a question, please > regarding your GF frame, I suppose I can cut the main part of the 'holes' with a diamond disc on a Dremel. But what should I use best for finishing the 'edges' ? A sanding drum? A cylindrical grinding stone? Thanks in advance for your advice. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 I use a small drum for the corners and a self made -very small -sanding block for the straight pieces .Good luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 25, 2020 Share Posted March 25, 2020 ... thanks, young man... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 25, 2020 Author Share Posted March 25, 2020 Hi all ! After two day's of fuselage sanding,i'm getting there ! For me ,the most dificult part to sand was the fuse former in the back with the balsa exhaust around it so i made a little tool for my dremel.It's just a grinding cilinder with some P60 sandpaper zapped to it at the top .It does an amazing job at the right speed !! This also counts for the inside of the nose,the former is very hard to sand without touching the soft balsa ! The rest of the fuse was sanded with P220 sandpaper on a semi-flexi plastic card.This way you sand away the ''corners'' between the planking strips.It's basically the same as the sanding tools made by Chris but the plasic card follows the curves of the fuse. In the first photo you can see a snake glued in ,that's part of the system for the weight compesation in the event of an ejection. As promissed,more on this later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted March 26, 2020 Share Posted March 26, 2020 'weight compensation in the event of an ejection' sounds very intriguing! I look forward to the full rundown! Yes there is some tricky shaping at both the intake and exhaust area on this one. Secretly, you all owe me a pint as the first kit proposal didn't come with the 3 ply balsa nose parts - I thought they were complex, characteristic shapes, difficult to form at home by hand - and it was I who bent Martins' arm to have those 3 balsa parts precut as part of the kit. Even with them laser cut they take some careful shaping! Your 'I Beam' section at the back above the exhaust looks good, is that all carved from balsa or do you have a thin ply top skin? I cant quite work it out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 It's all balsa Phil but to protect the corners, i added a small piece of ply at the end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 hope this helps ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 26, 2020 Author Share Posted March 26, 2020 Got the tail end and front end sanded with the new dremel tool witch works very well ! Last thing to do before glassing the fuse is to give the area around the speed brakes some extra sanding to compensate the brakes not being glassed.If i don't do this the brakes would lie too deep in the fuse. I gave the area around the brakes a layer of sanding guide to be sure i don't miss a part. When this guide is sanded away it should be ok,i guess... x While i was working on the brakes i got the idea it shouldn't be too hard to make some dummy hydraulic pistons. All i need is some little ball links to hook them up and were good to go ! First i'll glass this baby x x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 PSSA sabre Mass Build 2020 EJECT MANUAL Sold without warranty !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 Ingenious - And very nice drawings too! I do like the weight drop to maintain the CoG! With all the time we have on our hands at present you'll have to make us a test sequence video to keep us all entertained! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Meade Posted March 28, 2020 Share Posted March 28, 2020 A good solution but... you're just going to drop a small weight off the back onto the slope somewhere? Sounds a bit risky (not to mention if it's lead...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 28, 2020 Author Share Posted March 28, 2020 Estimated weight to drop is 45 gr Andy.Mayby i could hang it on a nylon thread attached to the CG ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robk Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 What an amazing job Dirk! We are not worthy... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 A model is perfect when You think it is Rob !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 A model is perfect when You think it is Rob !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 29, 2020 Author Share Posted March 29, 2020 Sunday : Glassday ! All sanded , dusted , weave ready , epoxy ready and the fuselage on a support for easy handling :Hands free ! I got a piece of 25gr for the whole fuse half , fin included, over the fuse .I protected the elevator hinge rod with some heat shrink tube and cutted a little hole for it in the cloth. Same M.O. as for the wing :Pin the cloth down with some dots epoxy brushed on .Carefully brush the cloth to the fuse , starting in the center and work your way to the edges till you're over the center of the fuse. I did the inside of the nose with a wet finger.This section will get another layer after the two halves are done I used very little resin over the gunports as i don't want them flouded ,to much sanding Here and there i used a pin to hold the cloth down. In the wing-fairing area ,a bubble was very resistent so i placed a piece of plastic in there and left some weight on top (a metal file ) Finally the brake opening :Very little resin here , keeping the hinge holes open. After all this i rolled everything down with a spunge roll to remove exess resin. In between i rolled the spunge on a piece of kitchen towl to roll of the resin. Done ! Second half tomorrow ! untill then ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted March 29, 2020 Share Posted March 29, 2020 Some great tips and guidance here (Dirk - does the plastic sheet not stick to the glass and cloth at all in the fillet?) but for me, the very best thing has to be the elevated bench mount into the wing bolt nuts! Superb idea! Edited By Phil Cooke on 29/03/2020 23:38:35 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted March 30, 2020 Author Share Posted March 30, 2020 Thanks Phil. It's the kind of plastic used for mixing cups.Dus not stick at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted March 30, 2020 Share Posted March 30, 2020 Great job, Dirk. ... and a very helpful tutorial to all of us. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve McLaren Posted April 1, 2020 Share Posted April 1, 2020 Yes very helpful. Do you put anything on the balsa before applying the resin Dirk? And is it necessary to try to do a whole fuselage side in one piece? Would it be ok to do the fin and tail area separately and have an overlap joint or two? (I've not done this before!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 Hi Steve , the cloth is put on the fuse completely dry,on bare balsa.You can do it with separate parts,but then you have seems to sand away.I saw it as a challenge to do it in one pièce. Good luck !Glad to help !One last tiput some gloves on to "form""the cloth so you don't misform it.I have a very rough skin on my hands and i keep pulling threads out of the cloth ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted April 1, 2020 Author Share Posted April 1, 2020 Hi all ! sanded all evening on the fuse being glassed. Couldn't resist to spray some paint on the critical area's. There's still a lot of sanding to do before the final coat of primer is on ! I'm still not sure whether to put primer on or a thin coat of resin. The problem with spray paint is that you can't spray paint inside a scratch or a deformity,(like the cloth signature)but you can get the paint in with a brush or foam roll. Resin is also harder than paint and dry's out faster.If you spray on too much primer,it takes weeks to dry completely,especially one component paint.(spray cans)If you put on laquer too soon,it will show weeks later on your model. Don't ask me how i know... More testing i guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Cooke Posted April 2, 2020 Share Posted April 2, 2020 Dirk your 'critical areas' look amazing with a dusting of spray paint - superb work! The gun ports look spot on - amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirk tinck Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 After some filling with primer and sanding (Just a few spots in the low area's visible now) i finally took the dicision to give the whole fuse a thin coat of resin for the simple reason that i prefer to fill any minor depressions (or the weave signature ) with resin , rather dan with primer.Another reason is , i don't want to sand trough the glass,believe me , you don't want that I prepaired 30 gr epoxy,rolled it on with a spunge roll. 50% Will be sanded off again. After this there will be very little primer needed before the color goes on . I know this looks like it has to DRY longer (you think) than primer out of a spray can , but it will be HARD much faster !! Not much fun in looking at paint drying so i went ahead with the dummy hydraulic cilinders for the brakes.For the outer part of the piston i took some abs tube and for the inner part i took pieces of an old extendable car antenna:not too heavy and very realistic. at both ends i glued in a xxs ball joint to hook them up in the fuse. Some dummy tubes will be added later. The background will be an image of the real brake-bay 2 grams per side... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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