Mark's Peggy Sue 2 Build

[james brough]

THANKS peter i shall work it out one way or another

[james brough]

hi it might sound a daft question to you but i can only build 1 wing on the plan and building board so how do i get to build the other side to get all the parts in the right position I AM NEW TO BUILDING SO DONT LAUGH

[Mark Elen]

Hi James,

There are various ways of doing this. Take it to the local print shop and ask them to scan it and print it in reverse is one way that I have used to good effect, the problem with this though, is if their machinery changes the scaling, it all goes wrong. (When I did it this way, I got them to print the whole plan, fus, Wing right way and wing flipped, to negate any scaling errors)
What I did with PS, if you look on page 3 of this build, was to trace out the whole Wing plan, then flip the tracing and build from that. It is an hour or twos work and you need to be precise with it, though, to be honest, I spent more time sharpening the pencil than drawing with it, but it is do-able.

Im sure others have their own ways of doing this.

Cheers

Mark

[Mark Elen]

Hi James,

I forgot to say, if you go down the tracing route, greaseproof paper will work - it’s what I used on the first attempt, but proper tracing paper is much better, I got a ten meter roll from e-bay for a few quid, it’s much nicer to work with.

Make sure you pin it down over the plan and take your time.

I then used a long straight edge and pinned both the original plan and my tracing to the building board and built the whole wing as one piece. If your board isn’t long enough, you will have to build one half at a time.

Cheers

Mark

[Peter Miller]

Another dodge is to wet the area with paraffin which makes it transparent. The paraffin dries after a time and the plan goes back to normal. A bit smelly and paraffin is not so easy to get these days.

The reverse or mirror print is the best answer and I have never had any problems with it.

If tracing the plan you only need one side of each spar and rib.

[Piers Bowlan]

I always take my plans to the printshop, there is a commercial printers near me with large format printers. I pay about £3 a sheet. To be clear you should ask for a mirror image of the wing or you may end up with a black image with white lines and writing, for that is what a reverse image is. You could also get the plan slightly enlarged while you are at it if that is your want, although not useful if you are buying the CNC parts. I prefer to keep the original plan pristine so that I can refer to it, as I normally cut up the copies into the component parts.

[Peter Miller]

One of our club members usually has about three copies including a mirror image one.

[james brough]

thanks very much for that i get 2 copies of the plan local so i am sure they could do that

[james brough]

hi the printers i have used before does not do it now another one wanted £40 to do it i shall have to bite the bullet and trace it

[Peter Miller]

£40!! Rip 0ff time in a big way!!!

[kc]

When tracing a wing drawing you only need to do the ribs and spars etc. You dont need to do much detail and there is little need to do the tips. You can always refer to the printed plan for all the minor details. Use a sharp 2B pencil. One drawing can do both wing halves and saves messing up the original drawing. Lay it on a white paper background for visibility when building.

Instead of tracing you could always mark the rib positions from drawing onto a balsa stick ( 1/4 sq spar ) and then draw onto white paper or transfer straight onto plasterboard etc then draw the ribs at right angles.  Spar positions are spaced using a wing rib.   I did that recently for a wing and it took about half an hour onto white paper because I did both wing halves TE to TE so all the rib positions were same ( opposite each other - just a matter of drawing the ribs right across both wing halves using a Tee square.  The Tee sq could use the straight edge of a piece of plasterboard etc )

For tracing I used to use greaseproof paper sold by Tesco or Sainsbury in a 20m roll for just over a pound. Recent stocks seem to be almost opaque and brown, so of little use. as you don't find out until you open the packet. If anybody has found a better type -let us all know.

Edited By kc on 02/11/2020 19:21:29

Edited By kc on 02/11/2020 19:25:51

Edited By kc on 02/11/2020 19:28:39

Edited By kc on 02/11/2020 19:31:45

[james brough]

thank kc i will try that starting tomorrow i hope

[james brough]

hi folks there was an picture in rcme recently of a cowl that had keyhole slots in it that slid down four screws in the firewall and was held in place by a swivel does any one remember how thick the ply face was the cowl was built onto with the keyhole slots in

[kc]

It was 1/16th ply on the Rans Chaos. If you use thicker ply it would work OK but the central cores of the ply are more obvious and are difficult to fill the voids in the wood. So 1/16 Birch ply is the stuff or it could be 2 layers of 1/32 if that is all you have in stock.

[Peter Miller]

This is my standard cowl retention system. As has been said. 1/16" ply works well.Youjust need a little swivelling catch at the bottom

[james brough]

thanks very much for the info on the cowl i had cut a 1/32 ply so i cut another to glue together today depending on any replies now i can glue them up THANK YOU KC AND PETER MILLER

[james brough]

hi another query on peggy sue 2 cant see any reference to the elevator wire dimensions to join the two pieces together or what gauge to use any help would be very much appreciated regards jim

[kc]

14SWG ( about 2mm ) piano wire is used on other models and should work.

It's quite important to ensure the joiner does not become loose in any model. Accurate hole drilling is important. Some of my models have a tiny patch of 1/64 or 1/32 ply over the balsa at that point and also a the horn mounting. The edges of the ply are sanded to a chamfer before fitting and are almost invisible. Actually I hate wire joiners and and I think a 1/4 sq spruce joiner is nicer if glued properly. ( needs bigger hole in rudder though and doesnt suit all designs)

It might be too late now but I find it easier to fit the joiner ( either wire or spruce ) when the elevator balsa  is still in one piece, then cut the V shape out when glue has dried.

Edited By kc on 22/12/2020 17:26:38

[james brough]

hi kc thanks for that have just looked again at the plan and found the info good idea of yous to use as well though thanks a lot regards jim

[Peter Miller]

Yes. 14 SWG elevator joiner. I just fill the hole with glue. Neverc had one come loose.

[james brough]

hi thank you peter i shall get there in the end I HOPE regards jim

[Nigel R]

I'm with kc, I like spruce too join elevator halves. Makes a good control horn mount too.

Actually my new favourite is a sandwich of 1/16 ply with hard balsa in the centre.

2 or 2.5mm piano wire will work perfectly well. Get a decent length prong going in to the elevator. And yes accurate holes are a must. Epoxy to fix the wire in place .

Edited By Nigel R on 23/12/2020 07:13:13

[james brough]

hi its me again i am building the wings for ps2 at the moment but can only build one at time how far do i have to buid them before i join them together to complete them regards jim

[Peter Miller]

Build one completely. Build thye second up to skinning the toppof the leading edge. Join with the second root rim and then complete the sheeting.

I hope that is clear.

Because there is no dihedral you will find it much simpler as the whole thing can be kept flat on the board.The completed wing only needs to be on far enough tobe stable

Picutres here

https://www.modelflying.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=129216

Edited By Peter Miller on 04/02/2021 16:47:16

[james brough]

thank for that info peter its more clear in my head now with those pictures on the model flying site regards jim