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NEW POLL - do you use a throttle kill switch?


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Posted by Wingman on 26/10/2019 12:07:45:

Can't see the point in a throttle cut (or inhibit switch) as it's just something else to get wrong - which way is off and on? - but I suppose if it gives you a warm fuzzy feeling then that is OK.

If you just place the throttle stick at half way when connecting the battery then the esc won't activate and the motor won't start until you return the stick to zero and then move it up again - note: that is two movements to activate - difficult to do accidentally!. Works on any transmitter old or new, needs no programming and is highly visible.

What safety procedure do you then use after flight to prevent accidental throttle activation whilst removing the flight battery?

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Posted by Wingman on 26/10/2019 12:07:45:

Can't see the point in a throttle cut (or inhibit switch) as it's just something else to get wrong - which way is off and on? - but I suppose if it gives you a warm fuzzy feeling then that is OK.

If it prevents just one painful damp or spurting feeling then I'm all for it!

...and if you can't remember which way the switch goes, how on earth do you remember which way the throttle operates!  I would always advocate using the same safety switch for all your models.

Edited By Martin Harris on 26/10/2019 15:02:27

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Before the days of programmable transmitters I used to advise trainees to lock the throttle off by means of a rubber band attached to the Tx handle and pulled down behind the Tx, then looped over the stick. This may still be an option for anyone unsure about the programming of their transmitter.

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An additional safety technique to adopt ...

When picking up the Tx case, always place the thumb ABOVE the (throttle) stick such that, in the event the operator trips or stumbles whilst carrying Tx (and model?) out of the pits to the taxi / active take off area, there is less likelihood of pushing the throttle stick wide open / on. Not guaranteed to prevent mishaps but together with throttle cut / activation switch, is contributory to a safer flight line operation. As others have said, once the flight battery is connected, always treat the motor as potentially 'live'. Switches, BECs, ESCs, even the pilots memory!, can and do fail, fortunately not too often.

(The above is primarily for electric models however, i/c can have the Tx trim lever adjusted fully forward from an engine 'stop' closed position to a good 'idle' tick-over).

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Thumb over the top of the throttle stick when carrying or picking up the model is a widely used method.

Personally I'd no more fit an aftermarket switch to a transmitter than I would fit a cooling fan to the front of my hat or a revolving bow tie, but it takes all sorts.

Edited By leccyflyer on 26/10/2019 16:08:23

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Posted by leccyflyer on 26/10/2019 16:07:46:

Personally I'd no more fit an aftermarket switch to a transmitter than I would fit a cooling fan to the front of my hat or a revolving bow tie, but it takes all sorts.

Why would you fit a cooling fan to your revolving bow tie? wink

When such switches are an optional extra on my transmitter and the user manual details the DIY fitting procedure I have no such qualms but I do understand any reluctance to possibly void a warranty on far eastern transmitters without decent technical support - but I would still advocate their use wherever possible.

Edited By Martin Harris on 26/10/2019 16:37:52

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Posted by Gary Manuel on 26/10/2019 13:39:17:

No - but there's a reason why I don't.

I like to have the same switch allocated for the same function on all my models. I use a sprung 2 position switch on my I/C models which is used to kill the engine when pressed. It either works by just fully closing the throttle or by operating a kill switch when one is fitted to the model. The sprung part of it reduces the risk of me accidentally killing the engine whilst in flight (plus it only works in the flight mode I use for take off's and landing). The same sprung part of it makes it useless as a kill switch for electric though.

I'm planning on switching to a Horus Tx soon, so maybe I'll rethink this as a Horus doesn't have any sprung switches (I don't think), but is does have the flexibility to allow a sticky throttle switch to be programmed.

Yes the Horus does have a sprung switch, (called a momentary switch). I swapped one of my other 2-way switches out and made that a momentary switch too. They are tremendously useful with OpenTX, such as being able to get it to play a range of telemetry parameters, or an almost foolproof kill switch where you have to hold the momentary switch on for between 3 and 5 seconds with the throttle closed for it to either arm or disarm. Thus knocking the switch simply has no effect.

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Posted by Andy48 on 26/10/2019 16:38:31:
Posted by Gary Manuel on 26/10/2019 13:39:17:

No - but there's a reason why I don't.

I like to have the same switch allocated for the same function on all my models. I use a sprung 2 position switch on my I/C models which is used to kill the engine when pressed. It either works by just fully closing the throttle or by operating a kill switch when one is fitted to the model. The sprung part of it reduces the risk of me accidentally killing the engine whilst in flight (plus it only works in the flight mode I use for take off's and landing). The same sprung part of it makes it useless as a kill switch for electric though.

I'm planning on switching to a Horus Tx soon, so maybe I'll rethink this as a Horus doesn't have any sprung switches (I don't think), but is does have the flexibility to allow a sticky throttle switch to be programmed.

Yes the Horus does have a sprung switch, (called a momentary switch). I swapped one of my other 2-way switches out and made that a momentary switch too. Its easy to change this in OpenTX so both switches are recognised as momentary switches.These momentary switches are tremendously useful with OpenTX, such as being able to get it to play a range of telemetry parameters, or an almost foolproof kill switch where you have to hold the momentary switch on for between 3 and 5 seconds with the throttle closed for it to either arm or disarm. Thus knocking the switch simply has no effect. Works perfectly with electric flight.

 

Edited By Andy48 on 26/10/2019 16:40:12

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I've been using a throttle cut switch on all my models, including ic, for years. I did it first on my Mux 3030 and followed through with my Taranis and Horus tranmitters. I also have voice warnings for switch states that work as soon as I switch on the transmitter. It's just so easy to do. I only have one model with a safety link to connect the fligth battery (electric) becaue on most it's just as easy to connect the battery as it would be to insert a link. The one with a link (on the motor connection rather than the whole pack) is there because connecting the battery with the model inverted has my hand right in the prop.

As for remembering which way is 'off', I've been involved in electronics (radio/TV in the 1950s) and electrical systems just about all my life and toggle switches (including light switches that aren't 2-way) are always 'up' for 'off'. y rate switches are always set for up being the lower rate as that seems analogous to off (or safer).

Geoff

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Posted by Geoff Sleath on 26/10/2019 16:39:55:

As for remembering which way is 'off', I've been involved in electronics (radio/TV in the 1950s) and electrical systems just about all my life and toggle switches (including light switches that aren't 2-way) are always 'up' for 'off'. y rate switches are always set for up being the lower rate as that seems analogous to off (or safer).

Geoff

No longer true. Check a modern Consumer Unit for the house.

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No need to fit aftermarket switch on my DX9, and, as others have mentioned, it has a nice lady prompting when the switches for throttle cut and rates etc are operated, giving their status.

Interesting point on the positions of the switches Geoff, -for me it's entirely logical that the rate switches are up for high rate, middle for mid rates and down for low rates. I don't think of them as on or off switches,

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Posted by leccyflyer on 26/10/2019 16:43:37:

...

Interesting point on the positions of the switches Geoff, -for me it's entirely logical that the rate switches are up for high rate, middle for mid rates and down for low rates. I don't think of them as on or off switches,

Yep, same action sense as the throttle stick, up for maximum, down for minimum. I'm sure my Futabas back in the days of the FF6 worked that way by default.

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Posted by Andy48 on 26/10/2019 16:41:25:
Posted by Geoff Sleath on 26/10/2019 16:39:55:

As for remembering which way is 'off', I've been involved in electronics (radio/TV in the 1950s) and electrical systems just about all my life and toggle switches (including light switches that aren't 2-way) are always 'up' for 'off'. y rate switches are always set for up being the lower rate as that seems analogous to off (or safer).

Geoff

No longer true. Check a modern Consumer Unit for the house.

I know, Andy. There are 3 consumer units in our house - all fitted by me. In this case, if it's true for me, then that's all that matters. At very nearly 80 there's no point my changing things now. We old dodderers are liable to get confused enough as it is

Geoff

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Posted by Peter Miller on 26/10/2019 11:05:22:

My Early Spektrum DX7 does not seem to have one. (one of the first in the country)

My Hitec Aurora has but it took a long time to find and I use it.

Today I had another look at my Spektrum Tx.

IT seems that there IS a throttle hold switch but ONLY in helicopter mode.

Not helpful

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Short answer is yes on all my models, using a 2 position switch on my DX8.

Switch has red heat-shrink for easy ID. Function copies throttle movement, i.e, switch forward for go, switch back for stop/cut so easy to remember. Like others have mentioned, I also use my thumb as a stop above the throttle stick when I have to carry the model.

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Posted by Andy48 on 26/10/2019 16:38:31:
Posted by Gary Manuel on 26/10/2019 13:39:17:

No - but there's a reason why I don't.

I like to have the same switch allocated for the same function on all my models. I use a sprung 2 position switch on my I/C models which is used to kill the engine when pressed. It either works by just fully closing the throttle or by operating a kill switch when one is fitted to the model. The sprung part of it reduces the risk of me accidentally killing the engine whilst in flight (plus it only works in the flight mode I use for take off's and landing). The same sprung part of it makes it useless as a kill switch for electric though.

I'm planning on switching to a Horus Tx soon, so maybe I'll rethink this as a Horus doesn't have any sprung switches (I don't think), but is does have the flexibility to allow a sticky throttle switch to be programmed.

Yes the Horus does have a sprung switch, (called a momentary switch). I swapped one of my other 2-way switches out and made that a momentary switch too. They are tremendously useful with OpenTX, such as being able to get it to play a range of telemetry parameters, or an almost foolproof kill switch where you have to hold the momentary switch on for between 3 and 5 seconds with the throttle closed for it to either arm or disarm. Thus knocking the switch simply has no effect.

I like the sound of that!

So much so that I've had a go at programming it on OpenTx Companion. It appears to work well. It's also compatible with using the simple cut switch for I/C engines that I have at the moment.Thanks for the tip!

Combined with reassuring "Engine Off" sound repeated every few seconds and a Beep when engine armed.

26-10-2019 18-53-22.jpg

26-10-2019 18-55-26.jpg

 

Edited By Gary Manuel on 26/10/2019 19:07:54

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Another sticky throttle. Centre of 3 posn switch for power live with voice warning. Also beeps if throttle off normal when power not live & beeps if power live & throttle not selected within 20 seconds.

Edited By PatMc on 26/10/2019 21:50:16

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Would if I could! On my early version Futaba T7C there is the easy to set throttle cut for IC, but for electric I tried setting up a mix with a switch and although it seemed to be set up correctly (with help from the instructions), and getting advice from this forum it would not work. So I gave up and make the connection just before take off and disconnect immediately on landing before picking up the model etc. Any good advice on how to use a Tx switch would be most welcome

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I use a long 2-position switch on the top right of my DX8, same on all my models, away from me for go, towards me for stop. My safety regime is that I only flick it forward when I'm about to open the throttle for take-off, and always flick it back before going to pick the model up. I also always check it, along with the throttle stick, before plugging in the battery.

It's nowhere near my fingers during flight, so has never been accidentally knocked.

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