Jump to content

Chris McG F-86 Sabre Dog build blog


Recommended Posts

Thanks for visiting and commenting, Chris.

To be honest, I don't have the same feeling about that 'sleekness', but anyhow my fuse shows the exact measured scale mods to the standard Sabre becoming a Dog one... angel

Following my teenage encyclopedia, the whales used very certainly to have a "wet nose' as well, but things might have changed... wink

No worries, I'll keep going as much as I can, but things would have been so much easier for me if I had more build blogs to integrate in my research for building solutions.

Where are those 70+ kits distributed 'worldwide'? No sign of a build blog for them? ... surprise

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Enjoying your thread Chris

I have also been thinking hard about whether for not to have a rudder. I thought I might be able to put in a torsion rod but as you say the geometry doesn't work because the all-moving stabiliser is in the way. After a weekend's work on the fus I have decided to omit it. My reasoning is for me its not an aerobatic plane but a scale one.

Cheers Rob

PS but the way - I finished the top planking today and my pregnant U-boat is up there for the world to see. I suspect my craftsmanship is a lot lower down the league table than yours...

Edited By robk on 02/02/2020 17:31:21

Edited By robk on 02/02/2020 17:31:45

Edited By robk on 02/02/2020 17:49:55

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your visit and compliments, Rob.

You're right, it's a decision to take regarding the rudder 'to be or not to be'.

I took my decision as I'm building the Dog version and the fin is about 40mm taller, but mainly the rudder chord is so narrow that the hinge line is passing true the pivoting point of the elevator bellcrank. surprise

With the 'standard' Sabre, the rudder chord is sufficient for passing 'through' the arm of the bellcrank which has then to be home-made. Please have a look at Chris Barlow's build blog for the details of it.

I'll have a visit to your U-boot, for sure... wink

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Chris, amen.

And if you're at all similar to me, keeping things SIMPLE might be a real good thing -- a real good DOG as it were -- as this is your first slope soaring build. Me? Keeping things SIMPLE is my NUMBER ONE challenge in trying to get my arse in gear. I love to defeat myself by over-complicating things.

I was actually thinking of you the other day as I was landing one of my very simple non-scale foamie gliders; whilst trying to bring the plane in properly I couldn't imagine myself actuating flaps, a rudder, speed brakes, ordnance, drop tanks, et al. I find it is PLENTY for me just to proper fly and land even just a very simple slope glider!

Remember, too, that, at least here in the USA, for decades the vast majority of PSS models did very well on just ailerons and elevator. As did Gordon & Martin's prototype Sabre in our PSSA Mass Build!

Managing things on a transmitter in wind and no wind and lift and no lift and sun and trees and rocks and Andrew Meade's hounds and my wild rantings and wailings (and a thousand other variables) is PLENTY for most anybody. Slope has a steep learning curve, as it were. I might even need to forgo having an operating in-flight pilot relief tube system on my PSSer. .

smile

p.s. LOVE the EXCELLENT Dog Sabre tough guy look that's emerging on the nose and chin of your build! Very nice! WOOF-WOOF !!!

desert scene.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your kind words, John.

I'll definitely remember your sentence of "defeating yourself by over-complicating things". surprise

As you stated, it is my 'first' and it's already quite complicated as is for me.

Anyhow I won't be trying to 'manage' anything myself. If a Slope Guru thinks the Dog is 'flyable' than of course he can have a try...

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello to all,

Yesterday, I had a splendid Sunday morning meeting up with Dirk at a Model Expo in Wavre.

We discovered we have a few common interests far away from modelling - ie. our passion for everything aircooled VW and Porsche related - and I became the happy owner of a splendid glass canopy frame. Thanks again, Dirk.

Back to business with a visit to La Grotte, adding a few planks to the nose till the Graupner pins were all used up again.

760_nose_planking01_900.jpg

763_nose_planking02_900.jpg

That was my excuse for it, but at least the nose is nearly planked now and the front part is ready for some measurements to build up the radome nose.

Hakuna matata

Chris

BRU - BE / CTR Canopy Frame Control

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks gents,

I will try my best to honour your care for the canopy frame, Dirk.

I might even start shivering just at the idea that I'm preparing the scissors to cut into it...

So you took profit of my leaving to sneak back in and spend your cash (again)? ... surprise Well done anyhow.

Is it the one with the big (120mm?) EDF and aramid (kevlar) fuselage or the GRP model with two smaller EDFs?

@ John > you're too kind, young man.

But, I think I will enjoy bringing the Dog to a sanded shape later on.

... and no, not lazy today. I've been spending a few hours of planking again... but I guess all the visitors are pretty bored by now, so pics will be posted after sufficient progress... cool

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good Chris. Just ordered 250 pins in preparation to planking, as I've seen how many pins all you guys are using!

Is it best to taper the planks over the whole length, or is it acceptable to cut the planks where they intersect?

Never been a boat builder lol

Cheers

Ade

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi gents,

... 250 pins will do, Ade. surprise

I have about 95 Graupner survivors, but that's really not enough. As I'm using Aliphatic only for my planking, after 4-5 planks I leave it to dry and do something else.

Regarding the tapering, Martin gave you the 'best' and 'easier' answers already. yes

I must be somewhere in between with my 'compromise' (once again...).

My planks are 7mm wide and all beveled by +/- 1mm at one side. Most of the time I use them straight but the problem arises mostly at the tail end.

Each two planks I start tapering at 35cm from the end to obtain a 4mm end dimension. It's easier to bevel the plank first and cutting the taper from the other side afterwards.

All my other joints are just cut where the planks intersect.

Hope this helps...

@ Dirk > the Rafale is indeed a sleek and beautiful machine, but don't let it distract you from your Sabre build !!!

Keeping on planking, chief. angel

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again,

I can officially announce that the top part of the Dog’s fuse is finally planked…

765_fuseplanking01_900_.jpg

770_fuseplanking02_900.jpg

I went a different way for the dorsal fin fairing.

You all know by now that the back end of the Dog is very different to the standard Sabre.

The fin is taller and the dorsal fairing is thinner but has about triple of the height with an ‘enormous’ surface.

Therefore, I decided to build the fin and its fairing as a single item and fix it permanently after shaping and even glassing. This also allows the fuse to be handled in an easier way for glassing and sanding later on.

I made a U-shaped ‘tunnelling’ around the dorsal spine in which the fairing will be slit together with the vertical surface in the F15 assembly.

771_fintunneling_900.jpg

Hakuna matata

Chris

BRU - BE / CTR Planking #4 Control

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello to all,

Gaston insisted on showing the Sabre build so far without those ugly pins.

I must admit that I’m glad to have finally completed the planking of the top fuse.

784_fusetop_planked_900.jpg

The bottom planking will be quite easier and certainly faster as it is a lot ‘flatter’ than the top… although I’m still convinced that mine looks like a “pregnant U-boot” (no offence intended at all, Martin) … it’s just the Dog version.

786_noseplanking_900.jpg

Here’s a view of the front part of the fuse that clearly shows the ‘herringbone’ pattern obtained when choosing the ‘intersect & cut’ method.

Hakuna matata

Chris

BRU - BE / CTR Herringbone Control

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm about half way there Chris, I'm doing it in small steps, limited by time this week (crazy at work) and in all honesty also by the number of suitable pins I have available! I'm using aliphatic so I add one plank each side of the middle datum above and below on each half - then let it dry before removing the pins and starting the next one. So at best only 4 planks per session are added. Should be complete this weekend I think...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So it seems we have closely the same 'method' then, Phil.

Not enough suitable pins, the use of Aliphatic, slow drying time, slow progression... sounds familiar to me. frown

Of course, we expect some pictures at the end of your planking journey. Or sooner... yes

Cheers

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again,

No parachutes, no Migs at the horizon as per Dirk’s blog, anyhow I decided to plank the underside of the fuse at the front as it will help sanding the foam blocks.

788_frontbelly_planking_900.jpg

I suspect I might have future problems when trying to align the wing dowels properly. But then Plan B will see me cutting out some access hatches… surprise

I also prepared some ‘sanding sheets’ from an idea I found on the forum (might be Andy Blackburn’s, but I can’t remember for sure).

It’s just a couple of sheets of cardboard laminated - with slightly diluted PVA - and covered with different grids of sandpaper. Just apply a few strips of Sellotape or cling film to your fuse and apply that lamination at different locations to obtain different curvatures, pin down and allow to dry.

789_sanding_guides_900.jpg

To give some grip for sanding, I applied two small strips of sanding paper at the top as well. If my ‘delicate’ fingers don’t stand the torture, I’ll just add a few strips of masking tape on top… angel

Full report available after testing.

Hakuna matata

Chris

BRU - BE / CTR Sanding Equipment Control

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi to anybody still there,

I’m preparing the bits needed for the Dog’s nose.

A lamination of two roundels of 6mm balsa, two 2mm ply roundels prepared for 2 magnets and two 3mm dowels. Some Blue Foam will be laminated as well to form the radome nose.

800_radome_bits_900.jpg

The drawing below should be a bit more explanatory and it even shows the original GM Models nose with N1, 2 and 3. The ply roundel at the back will be glued to the balsa ‘brothers’ while the front one will receive the foam ‘spinner’.

802_radome_drawing_900.jpg

The idea is to be able to remove the radome nose easily to add some weight at the front if needed.

Apologies for the pic quality but it’s a pencil drawing intended to be just for ‘inhouse’ use…

Hakuna matata

Chris

BRU - BE / CTR Radome Bits Control

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...