Paul C. Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 I somehow managed to completely miss this thread , it's definatly going onto the 'to do' list. Going to have to wait until I complete Ballerina number 2 as I am running out of hangar room, wonder how I can squeeze a 4 stroke up front ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 An SC30 FS will go in as designed with slight cowl and F-1 mods. Drop the bottom of the cowl about 1/4" and a .40 FS will go in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C. Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 That's it then ? next one on the list once I have finished the current one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Cardona Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Nice ?one Peter! Easy to build and semi scale, Now I have another one to do in my list. Now when are going to make the biplane version?? regards Daniel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 A biplane Stampe SV7 Monitor!!!???? You will have to build a Stampe SV4C if you want a biplane....the one that looks as if its mother was frightened by a Tiger Moth!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 The plan is a pullout ('free' ) plan with RCME April 2021 - the current issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted May 10, 2021 Author Share Posted May 10, 2021 Any one started building this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minty morton Posted June 5, 2021 Share Posted June 5, 2021 Hi Peter, very nice, I'm going to have a crack at this. I remember building one way back with a fibreglass fuz. Where did you get the canopy please. Minty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted June 5, 2021 Author Share Posted June 5, 2021 The canopy is just three pieces of flat sheet screwed and glued to the frames. Simple cheap and easy to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Being lazy I've been waiting to see if Sarik are producing laser cut parts. Doesn't look like that's happening so I've just made copies of all the ribs and formers and started sticking them to wood! I got some orangey-yellow film from HK that looks just the right colour from studying pictures of the museum example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted July 3, 2021 Author Share Posted July 3, 2021 It saves an awful lot of money doing your own cutting out. Yes, The Hobbyking film is the one that I used and it looks very accurate. I got my registration letters done by my favourite Vinyl cutting company on Ebay, Fastsignuk. which is very quick, reasonable price and accurate. Send him the picture of the full size and he will do the registrations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Just thought I would show the progress on mine so far. Supposed to be a winter project, but I started early! Haven't started the wing yet, it will take me through the winter. I have a 4s setup ready to put in it, my 4s 2200s have similar storage to a 3s 3000, so if I prop it right performance and duration should be fine. The motor is a bit long to fit in the plan cowl, so I moved the firewall back (and resized it accordingly) and made the cowl longer. I'll post any significant progress over the coming months. Is anyone else building one? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 25, 2021 Author Share Posted September 25, 2021 That is looking excellent!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 Thanks Peter. Just got the cockpit to do, then I'll start on the wing. I've decided to give myself some more work by fitting flaps, as one of the photos I found online shows them deployed. I know it won't really need them, but it will add a bit more interest to the flying experience. That photo also shows the checkerboard fin, so I'll have to replicate that for authenticity! The checkers seem to have been taken off when it got to the museum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted September 26, 2021 Author Share Posted September 26, 2021 The flaps will add a lot to it. I never told people about an early flight with mine. I made an inverted pass at about 20 feet....and gave full up elevator!!! I did repair it, Rebuilt the nose and the wing which was broken in half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 I've now tackled the bit I was dreading - canopy glazing. I used birch ply for the three hoops, as lite ply seemed a bit fragile. I also let in 1/16x1/4 ply strips running horizontally where the horizontal scale frame runs. Finally, I faced the front of the front hoop and rear of the back one with 1/8 balsa, then shaped the edge to match the angle of the acetate screens, for extra glue area. I made paper templates, then glued on the acetate pieces with UHU Por, with a few screws to hold the bottom in. External framing was added with insulation tape. I've nearly finished cutting out the ribs, so wing construction will start soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 That looks good. Since that model I designed the Ran's Chaos which has much bigger hoops and found the best method was to make a pattern of the inside of the hoop and glue on about 4 or 5 strips of 1/32" ply. This makes an incredibly strong hoop. A bit late for you but it may help others. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted October 28, 2021 Share Posted October 28, 2021 Yes, I can imagine that would be strong Peter. One little discovery I made along the way is that UHU Por will clean off of acetate by gently rubbing with a rag damped with meths. Meths is quite a mild cleaner an doesn't attack the acetate. On another aspect, I only noticed a few days ago that the pictures of your model, and those of the full size, show a small fairing at the bottom of the fin l.e. This isn't on the plan. No matter, the fairing on the prototype looks like it was added, ie it isn't blended in, so it will be easy enough for me to add once the tail feathers are glued to the fus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 28, 2021 Author Share Posted October 28, 2021 I use Canopy Glue myself for gluing on acetate sheet. I suspect that meths might remove that...must try it sometime. I may have missed the fairing on the plan or it could be the chap who redraws them and I missed it when proofing the drawings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 Possible drawing error alert! I don't think I've done anything wrong, but the spar slots in ribs 7, 8 and 9 seem mis-aligned Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dad_flyer Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 If you slot the spar in, does the leading edge come out straight? It could be the aileron end that is too long, not slot position. In the photo the spar looks bent, but that is probably just my eyes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 No, if I slot the spar in, the front of the ribs sit back from the line of the l.e. and the rear of the ribs overhang the t.e. The spar slots are too far forward by differing amounts in just these 3 ribs. It only took 10 minutes to cut some new ribs and I cut the spar slots by putting the ribs over the part constructed wing. Not a huge deal, but I thought I would flag it up for anyone else doing the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 It is possible. I draw my plan and then trace it and get it printed. If I find an error on my drawing as I build it I note it and then correct the tracing. I then send the tracing in as a PDF file along with the rest of the material. The PDF file is then sent to a chap in Corfu who does the final plan for the magazine.. I will not list some of the errors that I have found. I then get sent the final version which will have been laid out in a different way and I check the plan by laying my tracing over the final plan make any corrections The corrections are sent back. It is quite possible that I missed this particular error when proofing the final plan. So I am afraid that you will have to cut out some replacement ribs or just infil the wrong slots and cut new ones. Sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Crook Posted October 31, 2021 Share Posted October 31, 2021 No problem Peter, it's not as if the plan cost me anything! As I said above, just flagged it to help others. All is going well otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 31, 2021 Author Share Posted October 31, 2021 Just one other point. I design my wings on Compufoil. This allows me to print out the complete wing structure including all the ribs.I then actually use this and trace it for my final wing drawing including tracing the printed out ribs. So definitely not my original eStampe2 pdf.pdfrror I have tried to insert a copy of my original wig plan here, not sure if it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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