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Building an electric Super Scorpion


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I have a Ben Buckle Super Scorpion kit ready to start. I'm keen to get the battery as far forward as possible, to minimise any nose weight, although it looks like I'll probably need to add some, going by the short nose and my experience with the other vintage models I've built.

I'm looking at using a common 2200mah 3S battery and could possibly have it slide in horizontally under the motor, or slide in from underneath the model, vertically behind the motor.

I'd be grateful to hear of any suggestions regarding making it electric powered.

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I have an electric powered Super Scorpion.

I use 2200 3S batteries and slide them in from the front under the motor.

The model is a dream to fly. I have a Mobious camera in the cabin looking out the side and have some stunning video.

I have a hatch behind the motor to make connecting the battery easier. It is turning an 12" propeller

I will check exactly what size motor I have...I just phone George at 4-Max an ask "What do I need?"

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I have an electric powered Super Scorpion.

I use 2200 3S batteries and slide them in from the front under the motor.

The model is a dream to fly. I have a Mobious camera in the cabin looking out the side and have some stunning video.

I have a hatch behind the motor to make connecting the battery easier. It is turning an 12" propeller

I will check exactly what size motor I have...I just phone George at 4-Max an ask "What do I need?"

The motor is a 4-Max3535 870

Shot is our 100 yard sq flying field as a screenshot

flying field1.jpg

Edited By Peter Miller on 24/12/2019 12:02:03

Edited By Peter Miller on 24/12/2019 12:04:51

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In my electric 'Super Scorpion', (and other short nose vintage types too), I insert the LiPo vertically, usually parallel next to 'F1' bulkhead. In many cases this negates the need for 'church roofing' material to achieve an R/C C of G. (I appreciate Free Flight i.e. as the original types usually were, often had very rear locations).

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Posted by Capt Kremen on 24/12/2019 13:34:12:

In my electric 'Super Scorpion', (and other short nose vintage types too), I insert the LiPo vertically, usually parallel next to 'F1' bulkhead. In many cases this negates the need for 'church roofing' material to achieve an R/C C of G. (I appreciate Free Flight i.e. as the original types usually were, often had very rear locations).

In my description above the lipo is half under the motor. the end is flush with thje front of the fuselage

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Posted by Engine Doctor on 26/12/2019 11:13:05:

The Super scorpion is a lovely graceful aircraft . I don't know about the Ben Buckle version but the original KK model have a very weak dihedral brace . This was fine for free flight but often failed when converted to RC causing the wing to fold . Do please check the wing joiner and make stronger if needed

Errm... I'm pretty certain that KK only made the 44" Scorpion & there never was a KK Super Scorpion. wink 2

Edited By PatMc on 26/12/2019 23:14:27

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Posted by PatMc on 26/12/2019 23:13:44:
Posted by Engine Doctor on 26/12/2019 11:13:05:

The Super scorpion is a lovely graceful aircraft . I don't know about the Ben Buckle version but the original KK model have a very weak dihedral brace . This was fine for free flight but often failed when converted to RC causing the wing to fold . Do please check the wing joiner and make stronger if needed

Errm... I'm pretty certain that KK only made the 44" Scorpion & there never was a KK Super Scorpion. wink 2

Edited By PatMc on 26/12/2019 23:14:27

I agree. I have never heard of a KK Super Scorpion and I have been an aeromodeller since 1953

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In discussing whether Keil Kraft ever made the enlarged ( = Super ) Scorpion we seem to have ignored the comment about weak wing joiners. A look at the Super Scorpion plan on Outerzone shows the joiners are 1/16 ply of different lengths on both sides of the 1/4 hard balsa main spar (presumably full depth and notched for the ribs )

So the question is do the people who have built the Super Scorpion think this is sufficient or did they increase the joiner thickness or length?

I have always avoided these notched full depth spars as they seem to me to have a potential failure point built in at each notch. I did consider using a notched spar for a Boddington design once and thought it might be better to make the unnotched part of spruce with a balsa bit laminated on to have the notches cut in. In other words leave the spruce uncut and just cut balsa top part away. What do you think of that idea?

Edited By kc on 27/12/2019 17:29:56

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A few more comments are required.

The OP concerned a BB Super Scorpion kit. The plan on Outerzone isn't the BB plan, it's Ben's plan redrawn and slightly modified by some Eastern European intellectual (Slovakian or Slovenian I think) a few years ago.
In fact, the redrawn plan is excellent technically, but the guy who redrew it saw fit to add a KK Kits logo, thus presenting it as a KK plan, which he probably thought it was.
The Eastern European source submitted this redrawn plan to the SAM US plans library, and I believe Steve (Oz) got the plan through SAM US.
Anyway, the unfortunate end result is that there are now people around, who think that the SS was a KK kit!
There is even another version around on the web, produced by an American, which is simply the 44" KK Scorpion kit plan enlarged by 50%.

IMO, the wing joiners as drawn are perfectly OK for anyone flying the plane as it was meant to be flown.

Finally, this Super Scorpion plan has always made me a bit cross, because someone simply lifted Ben's design and drawing, and presented it as a KK kit plan (no doubt through ignorance), carefully avoiding any reference to Ben!

Edited By brokenenglish on 27/12/2019 18:28:08

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