stuey Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Thanks for your replies guys. I have seen the notch in the front of the wing on another build, so I have cut a section out already. I thought it was more to do with getting the pack in through the hatch, rather than its position. I have blue foam so I will make a spacer to locate the pack. I might also look at some cooling inlets near the nose too. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Adding cooling slots might be ok but the fus is rather packed with equipment so I doubt the airflow would be enough to add significant cooling to battery if our 2 models are a judge then power is not an issue with this model . It cruises on half power so limit the battery current draw with throttle - you will get better flight times as well. It’s slippery like the Gnatt so just go and enjoy steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted May 22, 2020 Share Posted May 22, 2020 Adding cooling slots might be ok but the fus is rather packed with equipment so I doubt the airflow would be enough to add significant cooling to battery if our 2 models are a judge then power is not an issue with this model . It cruises on half power so limit the battery current draw with throttle - you will get better flight times as well. It’s slippery like the Gnatt so just go and enjoy steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Passey Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Hi, this is my first-ever build. I'm about to hinge the ailerons but the plan seems to indicate to simply adhere them to the lower surface. Aren't you supposed to cut a slot with a slotting tool and put the flocked mylar hinges in the slot? These wings don't seem thick enough to cut slots in however. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Hi Tim, I cant remember exactly what the plan says but you could hinge these surfaces with hinge tape or even covering film if applied properly. I just cut a slot in mine with a craft knife and used mylar/CA hinges on mine. Whatever you go for, just make sure you can give it a bit of a yank and nothing comes apart. Clearly don't pull too hard since this is small and want have huge forces on it. Jump in if you have any questions. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Hi Tim, All my models for this size, gliders, power and electric use 10mm by 20mm mylar strip hinges. Just slit the trailing edge with a knife blade and the mylar is so thin in slips in ok. Just make sure the hinge is roughed with sandpaper. I used to use cyno but you had to be quick or it could stick half way in !!. Now and for the last few years i use UHU por which give plenty of time. Never have I had a hinge 'pull out' during flying with this system and if concerned on ailerons I just add another hinge.. Steve Edited By Steve Jones 2 on 17/06/2020 17:09:06 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 Canopy glue is another good glue for hinges but I agree with Steve, CA can be too quick sometimes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 Yep canopy glue a good one I use it all the time.... just don’t use PVA wood glue.. it will initially stick then break away from the Mylar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuey Posted June 17, 2020 Share Posted June 17, 2020 I have been using super-phatic glue on my Hunters flock hinges, gives you working time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Moore 1 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 I used small pinned hinges on mine and secured them with epoxy. The precautions that you have to take is to coat the working part of the hinge with a thin coating of silicone grease and put a few extra holes through the portion that goes into the wing. This stops the hinge being glued up tight (I've only done it once) whilst the extra holes ensure the glue keys across the joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 That’s the beauty of Mylar strip on small models - nothing to gum up with the glue. Surface movement is so small the Mylar flex is enough larger models .. hinges always Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Jones 2 Posted September 15, 2020 Share Posted September 15, 2020 Another outing for my Hunter and My Wing man Tim Potter’s Hunter . What a landing !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuey Posted October 26, 2020 Share Posted October 26, 2020 Hi everyone. I have successfully maidened my Hunter now, so now time to finish the scheme. I have covered it in the red and white livery of the RAF Halton gate guard. Can anyone suggest a source to get some decals made, the registration and roundels etc please? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Clark 1 Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share Posted March 5, 2022 Hi all, My transmitter has deleted (probably me) my hunter profile and I don't have the recommended control throws and CG anymore since I threw out the plan. Anyone still have it and can stick a photo on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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