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Gary's Ballerina Build


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Hi All,

I have the TN Hunter finished and the 1/4 scale moth minor is on hold until I can get the wing (which my friend is building as part of a joint project) so with only a Sig Kougar refurb slowly happening in the background, I needed to start something new.

I've like the look of Peter Millers Ballerina since the mass build but never got around to doing one myself yet. My plan is to stick to the original design as much as possible and looking to use an Sc46 2 stroke up front. I'd have like to have an sc52 4 stroke but it's really tough trying to get one of these now.

I started to cut the parts tonight so will hopefully start to build tomorrow. Hopefully anyone with any tips or good lessons learned can let me know as we go on.

Gary

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Hi Gary, shame you couldn't get a 52 FS as I use an ASP 52 FS in mine and I found it to be ideal plenty of power when you want it and half throttle stooging around. If you haven't built on of Peter's models before check out his notes on how he builds the wings, easy method of building a straight wing 👍.

Paul.

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I know the SC46 will be a bit more power than required but i do like to have a little bit extra for those max performance recoveries when it's that or sawdust....not that i have a lack of confidence in myself or anything! I don't like to fly my models fast so it should be a half throttle and just leave it kind of flight.

I got the kit cut in a couple of hours and decided to wait until tomorrow to start building

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So i had dinner and then.....had to start building!

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I didn't do much but feels great to start!

Gary

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I was tempted to go electric on this model but I feel like my last few have been electric and I worry I will have fewer and fewer glow/gas models. The appeal of electric is huge due to ease at the flying field and no cleaning up after but I still love to have a proper engine up front. Just a pity it's tough to get a suitable four stroke that isn't extortionate now. If anyone has a suitable second hand one then let me know!

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Hi All,

I've been making some progress and getting the wing done.

20200417_153608.jpg

This photo refuses to turn the correct way up so sorry for that! The construction is standard and simple but enjoyable. Nice clear plan to build from so far.

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I currently have the lower cap strips on and now the front 1/16 sheet on top to stiffen the wing before removing from the board. Gary's top tip, don't forget to cut the holes for the control rod in the ribs before you glue everything in.....it is much less fun to do once the wing is built! I have still to add in the dihedral brace but my plan is to gel that into both at the same time. This will mean building the second wing on the board in the same way but remembering to make a mirror image and then put the 2 sides together as peter did on his build log. I can't decide wether or not to do the wing tips now or once the wings are built and together. i am thinking later to avoid damaging them but not sure.

Enjoyable build so far.

Gary

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That is the secret of a warp free wing, complete the "D" box LE befre un pinningthe wing.

I then prop up the completed wing agaainst the second wing before fitting R-1 to the second wing. This means a perfect fit.

I had one person who phoned me and complained that there was no teplet to show what angle to fit the R-1s. He had ended up with a big gap between them. MY Comment was "Read the instructions" He was a club member so I could be a bit "less polite"

Definately fit the tips later.They are less likely to get knocked that way.

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Thanks Peter.

I totally agree with the idea of leaving R1 until a attaching the wings. Even if there was a template, that would rely on the rest of the build being perfect and also the wing being set at the perfect angle for the joint to be flawless. Doing it our way means that even if you dont have the exact dihedral the designer planned, the joint is perfect (in theory obviously!)

Gary

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I developed that sequence because I always had a gap.

It also makes my system of making the hole for the front wing dowel work better.

The person mentioned above used a piece of brass tube instead of a wing dowel and didn't glue it in.

On the first flight when the model was inverted the wing fell offdisgust.

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Hi guys,

More progress made to the Ballerina wing. I have the second wing up to the stage of joining it to the starboard side. I still have to complete the box section at the front so it is still pinned to the board but i needed the R1 in place so that i could sheet the top and close the box up to prevent warps.

I used the method Peter and I discussed earlier and attached everything whilst the wing was still pinned. This means a very tight joint and hopefully a straight, strong warp free wing.

Sorry about the photos, they seem to rotate when i upload then and i can't seem to sort that. Crinked neck it is...

20200421_154714.jpg

I made 2 jigs to sit the end of the wing on. Peter has in the plan that each wing is to have 1" at each end rib so because one end is pinned down i put these at 2". Hopefully I've interpreted this correctly but if i have not, it's too late and that's the dihedral she is getting! blush

The joint ends up fairly tidy using this method and the ply brace fits perfectly so that's reassuring when it comes to dihedral angle.

20200421_151355.jpg

Hopefully that makes sense and please chip in if anything has anything to add.

Gary

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Thanks for the confirmation Peter and the advice from Mark and Denis has also proved to be accurate, Landscape photos has solved the problem.

I got out to the garage for an hour or so after my little boy went to bed. The photo below shows the wing before the top sheeting is on. You can see the ply undercarriage plate and its reinforcements and the 1/4 inch sheet for the aileron leading edge/wing trailing edge but these still need shaped.

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It is looking straight and equal so something is going right

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Top sheet is on the front box section so it can be removed from the board tomorrow to finish the bottom cap strips then servo tray followed by the rest of the top sheeting.

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Things are going fast but that is the benefit of not having anywhere to go just now!

Gary

Edited By Gary Clark 1 on 21/04/2020 21:59:19

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Port wing pretty much at the same stage as the starboard one. Just the bell cranks to put in and the 1/16 sheeting underneath there and its done. I have left off the wing tips and also the leading edge until later, that saves it from damage whilst i build the fuselage.

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The sheeting on top of the centre section will go on once I've sorted the aileron servo. This will be open and inside the fuselage but i'd rather have all that set up before i close the rest of the area up.

I will get things cleared up and set up my fuselage board tonight and hopefully make a start. I still need to cut the tail surfaces but that should be fairly quick. Good fun so far and hopefully the fuselage is the same.

Gary

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