Graham Davies 3 Posted February 16, 2021 Share Posted February 16, 2021 Fully paid up disciple of Paul and Richard here! The black/ white pens work really well. I agree with Paul, you don't want a continuous solid white line as you are trying to imply light catching on a panel gap. Fortunately, it turn out far easier to get a broken line than a solid one with these pens. I'm a bit heavy handed in the pics; next one will be better! I didn't have the guts to use a wash, but used chalk. At Richard's suggestion, I got a pack of 'greys', which went from white to black. I lightly applied a strip of masking tape just ahead of the line and then rubbed chalk into the tape before feathering it from the tape across the panel. I used light chalk on the dark colours, and dark chalk on the, er, light ones... Time will see how long it lasts, but I'm sure aircraft in service got washed from time to time! I may practice with my airbrush on my next project (Yak 3). Final point, I used silver and bronze sharpies to add some wear that would go down to aluminium. Around the leading edge, canopy frame etc. Apply a little dab and then immediately smear it with your fingertip. The bronze worked well on the exhaust stacks. Rivets are done similarly to lines, a tiny semi-circle of black (like a smiley face) and then an inverted smiley of white above it. The lower one is a shadow, the upper is light catching the rivet. You can just about see one near the spinner. Not to many rivets on a spitfire! It's a hugely relaxing and satisfying process. The model literally comes to life before your eyes. Graham 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted February 16, 2021 Author Share Posted February 16, 2021 I'll nip in with my Zero at this point . being as its turned into a show and tell . More silver pen , plus black and white pen and finally a bit of white and black chalk . 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Okay, before I get overwhelmed with a sense of inferiority in the face of all these beautifully finished models, back to the Mustang and the first rehearsal for the grand wing joining ceremony. Sorry my phone doesn’t seem to know which way is up, but in this case I don’t think it matters too much. I’m planning on sheeting the underside after joining the wings, mainly so that the dihedral braces can be properly clamped. I’ve also got the self-inflicted added complication of the inner gear doors to sort out. Trevor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Trevor Be a little careful when you put the lower skin on if you have joined them as until both skins are on it can still twist a little. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Well progress Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Damn it forgot the model so busy worrying about the feet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Lines .... lines and more lines 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 I'm still struggling with the flaps! I have two riblets marked R2F. I presume these go 1mm inside R2 and form the end of the flap? Trouble is, with the shape of the riblet, I don't see how it attaches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Having just posted that, I'm wondering.... does the "cricket bat" blade fit in the cutout in R2F? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 On 27/10/2020 at 16:30, Paul Johnson 4 said: Right wing almost ready for sheeting just need to add R1. /sites/3/images/member_albums/156134/879353.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 you can see a small gusset I've added to support it don't forget to leave a small gap from the rib next to it to allow for cutting out the flap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Yep, got it now. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 1 hour ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: Trevor Be a little careful when you put the lower skin on if you have joined them as until both skins are on it can still twist a little. Point taken Paul. I hope still to be able to use the support jigs when I get round to sheeting the underside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 All, The flaps are attached to the ribs when is the best time to remove the attachement between the ribs and the flap parts. Is this best done berfore final sheeting or when you cut the flaps out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil McCavity Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 I'm going to risk being controversial here and say the P-51C is much better looking than the D! ⛑️ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 I've finally made a start on mine by cutting out and labelling all the cut parts. I will probably start a seperate thread for my build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 25 minutes ago, Geoff Gardiner said: I've finally made a start on mine by cutting out and labelling all the cut parts. I will probably start a seperate thread for my build. Blimey, those feet are hairier than my wife's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Paul, 3 hours ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: you can see a small gusset I've added to support it don't forget to leave a small gap from the rib next to it to allow for cutting out the flap Couldn't see your gusset! Must be small Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 10 minutes ago, Graham R said: Paul, Couldn't see your gusset! Must be small There's always one... you just can't see it... olive drab gusset. Time turn turn em inside out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Thought you may have been on The Great British sewing bee! I have also been doing some white lining. It is a WR warbird. I think you are trying to get us all trained up so we can start a road white lining gang!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Works though eh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Hey you got my slippers on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Right chaps . As quite a few of you are either having a go at finishing or about to have a go , I thought I would share a little bodge with you for those that are thinking about the need for "soft edges" and exhaust stains . These can be achieved to some degree with a dry brush , but it never looks as good as an airbrush . At this point , most of you reel back in horror . The mention of "dual action ", different paints , technique etc is enough to put anyone off . So lets take a very , very simple approach with a few quids worth and next to no time or skill . Every super market sells little 12v tyre compressors for about £10 . Get one and piggy back a XT60 or similar Lipo plug off of the power lead . Rather than cutting the cigarette socket off , this will leave the compressor undamaged for its original purpose . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Then go on line and google "Cheap airbrush" . Something like this will come up . it is very simple and simply siphons paint from the jar . It will come with an air feed tube and that will need to be epoxied to a foot pump adapter . The airbrush will be between £8 and £13 . You could just connect the air brush to the compressor , but it is very noisy when you are doing something delicate plus it will tend to pulse the air too much so it is better to fit a reservoir tank of in between . The bottle becomes a header tank so provides smooth air and also holds enough to turn off the compressor at 25psi and do all of you exhaust stains etc in quiet peace . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 (edited) There are also these little fellas, I tried one out last year and was quite impressed. Not as good as my airbrush and not for detail work but does a fair job and cheap! Preval Edited February 17, 2021 by Ron Gray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.