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Warbirds Replicas P51 Mustang


RICHARD WILLS

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55 minutes ago, Jonathan S said:

Eric, 

I have the elevator on I used the last spar, a bubble  and a central line on the fuselage as a mark.  I think your method is better.  Well the next one will be better.  

J was thinking more the vertical stab. 

 

Thanks again for your help

Sorry Jon, I should have realised that after making a remark on the cocktail sticks, in my last reply I should have said fin not rudder or vertical stab if you prefer. there are many ways it can be held down while the glue sets, a length of string with equal weights on each end hung over the elevator will put pressure on . With the Mustang I used superglue on the fin to elevator then PVA for the blocks either side these were then pinned till the glue dried.  

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All,

I am moving forward and trying to get the last major jobs done.  The fillets are done but not yet fitted. 

The next job is the exhausts,  what glue do people use to attach them.  I have tested a few of my normal plastic glues but nothing seems to hold. 

 

I was thinking about also using magnets to hold back end of the exhausts to the fuselage, anybody see any issues with that.

 

thx

Jon

 

 

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Magnets isn't a bad idea as they overlap the hatch, so being able to remove and replace them would be handy.

 

I glued a bit of balsa inside them with RC Modellers glue and then glued this to the fuselage. It stiffened them a little so where they overhung the hatch, they didn't catch and remained a close fit.

 

If you stick them straight on, RC modellers glue is my favourite. Comes out white, dries clear, is slightly flexible and is great for canopies and moulded parts...

 

Graham

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I ended up not using the supplied ABS exhausts, as a clubmate 3D-printed me a set.  I cut these where the cowl meets the fuse and stuck them on with very thin, very sticky double-sided tape.  It's held fairly well but I noticed just today that they are lifting very slightly, so I might have to redo the job using a contact adhesive. 

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Hi guys,

Just moving on, starting to think about the nose and battery box installation.  

Couple of questions, what is the best glue to use as there don't seem to be that many contact points.  Was thinking epoxy or pva.  

Any good ideas on how I ensure its square etc.  

 

I have built the battery extension  box. So that's ready to go.  

 

Thx

Jon

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Hi Jon.,

I used PVA to glue the battery box in, not sure what you mean by getting it square as it is all pretty much self aligning. 

Regarding the exhausts, I glued mine to the cowl , I sanded them to a near fit then glued them to the cowl with Uhu glue. After a prang I rebuilt the front and fitted a new cowl this time I used, ( I hope I don't get into trouble for this but it is the name) Sticks like Sh*t. and it does . I put some balsa in the exhausts then filled in with the adhesive and stuck them on.

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Jonathan, as Eric said, I don't think there are any alignment issues with the battery box as it's a sliding fit and can't go anywhere it shouldn't really!  I used five-minute epoxy but I'm sure PVA or aliphatic is fine.  I also extended it backwards but as I'd already glued it in place I didn't do a full battery box extension, as Paul detailed earlier in the thread, but cut the rear side away and extended the bottom back as far as the servo shelf.  It's a good job I did, because the battery needs to go back all the way!

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  • 1 month later...

Trevor

Yes, it is going OK.  The first bit of paint has gone on. I Think I need more practice covering but it looks OK at 6 foot.  

I won't be able to fly for a few weekends so going to get base colours down so ensure good visibility on maiden.  

 

The prop assembly is not quite right and has 1mm of vaiation that I think is down to my grinding of the prop shift so that's on the todo list when Mrs S. Is away this week.  

 

Then it's final fettle and fit..... Will post some pics later in the week.

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You should be pleased with that Gordon . That is an immaculate P51 straight out of the factory . 

I remember seeing the Ferocious Frankie at Duxford , just before it was sold . Up close , it looked like that . It had been polished to within and inch of its life . 

beautiful job !

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Paul, that looks so good, the weathering job is excellent,

Please has anybody written an article on "weathing warbirds" in one off our WR threads? I know i've probably asked this before, and sure i've seen one somewhere, explaining how to achieve the weatherd look.

I have been experimenting myself using the black,white,and metallic permanent marker pens, smudging effect using fingers, are you using pastels, to achieve the dark staining ? Or an airbrush , for general  "dirtying up "

Many thanks Graham ( Cornwall)

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This is from the Bf109 thread. There is more pictures from page 19 to 23 there that might be of help

 

Just a quick follow up for the brave who have not tried the weathering before and may wish to have a go.  
 
After you have undercoated and then put your top coat on I used a black thin permanent marker to mark the panel lines, if you are nervous as I was on the first attempt use a pencil. This can be erased using a simple rubber if it's not where you want it. 
 
Once the black lines are draw, highlight each black line with a white pen, ink or gel pens work, draw the same side to keep them looking consistent, I used out board for the wings and behind, then for the fuz, behind and below. You can see it if you look at the pictures. For weathering and shading I used Humbrol dust wash on the upper surfaces and Humbrol ochre on the underside. This was done using a cheapy airbrush and a piece of paper to prevent overspray at the front of the panel lines again look at the picture . 
 
For the exhaust smoke I used Tamiya smoke lightly built up to I thought it looked ok. it's difficult to over do this one as it goes on very opaque. I also used Humbrol oil wash, which is a gloss, to show some 'leaks' in appropriate places. 
 
Go on have a go you know you want too...! 
 
  
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