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Windshield fixing to film covering


Martin  McIntosh
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I do like the look of the screw approach but I’ve always managed with the R/C Modeller’s glue, assisted as kc says by tabs on the bottom of the windshield into slotS in the balsa. Strips of vinyl trim used to frame the windshield also serve to cover up the slots

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I have used JB Weld to glue windscreens on. Mask off above and below the area, fill with the weld, smooth off with a wetted finger. Leave for a couple of hours, remove masking tape and allow to set for 24 hours. Leaves a nice smooth fillet which you can paint.

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Thanks for the replies. I have some of those small screws but they are out because it has to be a simple acetate sheet curved and folded at each side, although I may be able to fold some tabs and screw those to hardened balsa. It will be basically the same as the Ohmen ones.

I actually posted the above before I saw the pics. Something to go on now.

Edited By Martin McIntosh on 15/07/2020 22:30:00

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martin,i've mentioned a few times on the forum that I use clear silicone(aquarium grade)...a small tube costs around a fiver....fit your screen/cockpit...tape in place and leave overnight.....have a look at an aquarium and the joints are butted together and they hold a fair amount of water...……...strong as anything...give it a try--you wont be disappointed...

ken anderson...ne...1......aquarium silicone dept.

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With canopy glue, and I guess it would work with RTV too, I make a line of pinholes through the film, right along the glue line. Allows a small amount of glue to reach the wood beneath.

Solarfilm used to do a liquid something or other that etched or keyed the film surface. Maybe there's an alternate chemical or paint product that would do the same, you could wipe along the glue line with cotton bud or similar?

edit: Prymol was the stuff

Edited By Nigel R on 16/07/2020 10:48:29

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Thanks Nigel but I once tried so called canopy glue. On turning the model upside down the whole thing fell off, and that was acetate to balsa.

The problem with polyester film is that you cannot etch the surface to paint or glue, it is completely different to Solarfilm.

I think that I may go with the tab idea; also JB Weld may be good but when I bought some extreme temperature stuff it came as a one pack which you are supposed to stir and use the whole lot in one go. I shall try and get the right type now since I have other uses for it.

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I've used canopy glue with success, but first I slightly rough up inside the canopy edge and the film with fine sandpaper. I find the secret is to leave it secured with tape for 48 hours to go off. Sometimes I also use cut down pins as a backup, first making pin holes with a 1mm drill bit and pushing the pins in with a little cyano at difficult points such as corners which look more likely to lift up in the airflow, or anywhere there isn't a good surface area to hold sufficient canopy glue. The small pin heads then look like rivets which look pretty good and scalish.

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Hi, been at it for 60 years and did all that bar the pins. It must have been a lousy brand which I bought, in fact it was water soluble. When I wiped off the excess it fell off! For ordinary canopies I now use RCM glue, but this windshield is just point contact with the covering. I have done them before but to a painted surface.

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aeromaster 067.jpg

Settled for this in the end, the original idea being to push the tabs into slots but they had a habit of breaking so I used screws instead. Went over it inside and out with foam safe ca after first spraying with ca primer. I can add paint later.

Thanks for all your inputs; on the face of it this looks a simple job but they have given me headaches in the past.

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