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The Ohmen


EarlyBird
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To the front. Turned the board around, weighted down, removed the pins, glued the ribs and pushed up the sheet using and old aileron as a wedge.

 

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The leading edge is cut and ready to fit, having shaped the bottom edge to suit.

 

Adjusted the position of the wedge to close up any gaps and with a drop of super aliphatic on each rib to make sure.

 

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Wait for that to soak in and dry then glue the LE in place.

 

 

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If this is a newly printed plan from Sarik has the fuselage plan now been amended to show triangular balsa reinforcing at F1?   This was noted as being missed from the pull out plan but is essential.  

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28 minutes ago, kc said:

If this is a newly printed plan from Sarik has the fuselage plan now been amended to show triangular balsa reinforcing at F1?   This was noted as being missed from the pull out plan but is essential.  

It is from Sarik and has  not been amended as the triangular balsa reinforcing at F1 is not there.

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Thanks Peter I have to agree and it seems to be getting easier, less bodge ups to hide.

 

LE fitted and left to dry overnight.

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A good use for old ailerons, some are mine.

Bottom sheet trimmed and LE top planed and sanded to shape.

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Ready for top sheeting ? that was a near miss! Next is join the wings. 

 

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42 minutes ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said:

Are you happy with using old lipo batteries as weights in your workshop?  While I have several old SLA batteries like the one pictured as workshop weights, accidental puncture (e.g. a dropped scalpel) or  just the effects of old age might not end well…

Perfectly happy as they do the job of weighting down when needed.

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Old sealed lead acid batteries make great weights ........but is there any great danger if a scalpel should penetrate into the contents?   Obviously one should discard the blade in case one cuts oneself later but does the chemical squirt out or something?

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OK - Lipos are a different matter!  ( one could read it as referring to SLA cells  in the original post )   But sealed lead gel cells have such nice dead square cases that they seem perfect weights for our purposes and very difficult to damage.  

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I have some old lead acid batteries, the non spillable type but haven't used them for years. I have used old home shopping catalogues which are great for sheeting curved surfaces.

I prefer paper clamps and map pins these days.

When I want to hold a fuselage side down as per the photo I have a small anvil and a couple of other weights.

I am very careful of lipos. They live in metal cases or or a Batt Safe (tm) unless going to charge outside or going to the flying field.

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While clearing the board to make way for the two wings I found a bit of paper which I had obviously cut and set aside for a reason. ? Oh yes it's for the wing tube. I didn't forget honestly. The joys of getting old.?

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I am not sure why I sheeted the first wing as it made the joining harder. I think I reverted to a prescribed method for one of the first kits I built.

It was not a good idea then and it's not a good idea now. Do not follow this example is the message. 

 

LE sheet cut trimmed and test fitted. I have an aversion to pins, I thinks it started with needles at a very young age, anyway I avoid using pins where the holes will be seen.

Here pins are used in a way that does not make holes. 

 

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I have dampened the outside which helps forming the curve.

It would be a good idea to glue it and leave it to dry overnight.

Has anyone noticed the quality of the balsa? It's grained with black stains. Bought it when there was a balsa shortage and obviously the quality suffered. Sarik kept going through the crisis so I do not mind and completely understand, pleased to have balsa no matter the quality at the time. 

 

It always happens. Part way through a build I start thinking about the next one. Destiny's elliptical wings caught my attention ages ago but all that planking. Recently Rhapsody came into the frame. Something to think about, I guess, but It's time to place an order or the building board will be empty. ☹️ 

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My sequence for joining the wings works perfectly. It means that the wing joint has the maximum glueing area,

If you lift the first wing off the board before ALL leading  edge sheet is applied the wing lifted from the board can and will warp.

 

The second wing is completed while pinned down and I have never had a warped wing while using this sequence.

 

This is even more important with the elliptical wings because they are set up with washout and if lifted before the sheeting is complete you could lose that washout which could result in very nasty tip stalls.

 

Rhapsody is a dream. They may also have Symphony which is another elliptical wing beauty.

 

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Glued and dried overnight.

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Which turned out to be good. What I do find interesting is that as I build more the easier it becomes.

For example on this LE I used a razor plane with very little sanding and no masking tape protection of the ribs.

I guess that with practice I have refined my technique and what seemed impossible the first time is now easy, like learning to fly especially landing.?

On my first build I used loads of filler, it was a mess, but with loads of sanding once covered it looked fine and it flew?

 

The next challenge is working out how to get the wing profile to match the wing seat cut out on the fuselage. I think I have worked it out on the second wing but unfortunately it does not match the first, just a bit more plane and sanding required. 

 

Sheeting and cap strips next. Fuselage to come ? which is going to be interesting as Hound Dog has made me decide to make changes to the battery hatch and the nose shape.

 

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57 minutes ago, EarlyBird said:

For example on this LE I used a razor plane with very little sanding and no masking tape protection of the ribs.

At some point you may regret this, it only takes 1 slip and you can have a mess to deal with! Far better to continue to use it even if you don't 'need' it.

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Regrets no regrets for me. I have found that masking tape gets in the way and the results are better without it. If there is a problem in the future then I will deal with it but it's only balsa no big deal.

 

TE parts cut and ready. I use pins to give a straight line to work to which helps placement of the parts.

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After final check all glued up.

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Top sheet and cap strips to come.

 

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The top is finished. ?

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I am learning as I go along which has resulted in the second wing being better than the first, which was not helped by the black stained and lighter patch near the centre resulting in an uneven curve. Next time I will be more selective with the wood.

Leading edge needs fitting on the second wing, to the right in the picture. That's next then the bottom to complete and the wing tips.

 

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