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New from Multiplex - Lentus 3m Glider


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Just now, spudsy said:

Most motor factors and hardware shops have a box of o rings of various sizes and I have always managed to get one to fit.

Now I realise the exact size I’ve searched  can get a 1.6 x 49mm instead of the original at 50mm can’t see 1 mm making too much difference 

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On 31/03/2021 at 16:21, John Lee said:

 

Maidened the Lentus today. I should have paid more attention to your post David as my canopy also detached in flight. Fortunately easily recovered and a bit of tape was used on subsequent flights. I'll see if I can add some magnets before the next outing.

 

I've now fixed 4 magnets which has made the canopy much more secure:

 

IMG_3322.jpeg

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  • 1 year later...

I’m just starting the assembly on one of these, a kit version off EBay, the previous owner had then bought as extras all the (Multiplex) bits to build it to completion, including the retract landing system, power kit, wiring, nice multi voltage power supply and battery, etc.

Now I am a power flyer, for ever. I mostly fly glow plug stuff, and have far less experience with electric setups. Always fancied another glider, and here we are.

Three questions.

1. The Multiplex power kit is supplied, complete with its speed controller and BEC. I have no intentions past flat field soaring, no aerobatics, so do I need the extra separate power supply supplied with it box of bits, or rely on the supplied Multiplex speed controller/BEC.

2. Reading this September’s RCM/E, I note David Ashby uses the throttle stick for the crow system. I think I will go down that route, experience in the past using rear sliders is not a source of fond memory.

What is the standard way round for the stick. Instinct tell me stick up for a clean wing, stick down for full drag. 
3. Launching. Now I will be able to roll launch it, but I will mostly be flying off farm fields near the house. Am I right to assume, thermal mode and power is a good way to get it away from a hand launch. 

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Hi Don, 

 

1. I used the ESC only but there is room for a back-up device or separate BEC too. I tend to use an Optiguard in these cases but each to his own. 

 

Correct on point 2, with the clean wing/stick up. The vast majority of users do this although you’ll always find someone who prefers the opposite. 
 

When you say ‘roll launch’ you mean ROG? Fair enough, but it’ll get away easily with a clean wing from a hand launch, no need for flaps in the slightest. In fact a dose of down elevator will be needed at full power. 

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Thank you David. I will follow you and use the factory supplied unit. Kiss.

Yes, rise off ground. I have the retract unit, it came with the smaller prop, and I don’t have 3s batteries to suit, but have a couple of 4s in the right size.

So that allows me to trim it at the club, using the nice runways. Much obliged.

The glue arrives tomorrow, so I can get it done.

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Don on my electric gliders that I hand launch, crow brakes or spoilers are on the stick and power on a slider, works well. However on my ASK11 motor glider which I ROG I use flight modes with the stick controlling the throttle on a take off mode and then spoilers on the landing mode as I found advancing the power on a slider and controlling the rudder on a ground take off wasn't as easy as just using the sticks.

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Frank, you have the point. To be frank, I find the sliders on the back of my tranni a total pain. Hands are just not capable/big enough to control a stick and slider. Or perhaps the brain can’t do it either. 
A thought I have.

1. It’s not overpowered. If I throw a switch, and put a slow transition on the servo response, it will emulate a typical take off run. If it’s biased one way or the other, a curve will reverse the bias. I’m used to power, excessive or not. 
I’m a bit reluctant to put the throttle stick to two uses in one aircraft. Like most power fliers, flight modes are strange. On this one they are needed.  But one stick, one job does not start queasy feelings. 
But bottom line, I expect, once trimmed it gets a hand launch. It’s going to fly off farmers fields. And even at the club, it will be easier to chuck it than try to keep the wing tips off the runway surface. 

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The throttle stick controls both throttle and flaps / spoilers on my Leprechaun. The top half is throttle (using a curve) the the bottom half the flaps / spoilers (on another curve) with a ‘deadband’ between the 2. This allows me to carry out hand launches quite easily despite its size.

 

2344A44A-F7C0-4C0B-9DED-F17469AE56E0.thumb.jpeg.acd966345213f53ecc1ae678b598cc02.jpeg

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Don yes the stick having a dual function could be an issue, what I do is have a master flight phase on a two position switch which activates the throttle, so for take off the stick works when I get up to height flick the switch and the throttle cuts, I then leave the stick fully up, want to do a climb out just flick the switch and the motor starts up and model climbs away, using a slow on the flight phase transition effectively means the motor starts up gently.

 

Must admit on my power models I now use flight phases on a regular basis but dual rates hardly ever. 

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57 minutes ago, Don Fry said:

Brain is hurting now. I will get my head round that lot, and might well be back with difficult questions.

The important thing is to do what you are comfortable with, I have a couple of power flier mates who must have the throttle on the stick even when it's a powered glider and it compromises the control of spoilers or crow brakes on landing, but ironically when they are flying a pure glider they prefer the spoiler control on the stick 🤔.

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Muscle memory can play havoc in a panic situation.

If you are a (Mode 2) power flyer and use the left stick for throttle, it can catch you out in those split second decisions if you then utilise it as a spoiler control with throttle on a switch.

Yes, I appreciate it probably is a finer control for gliders but I've seen several glider guiders caught out and damage their precious machines as they struggle switching and juggling between switches and sticks.

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Plodding along assembling this kit. I’ve got to putting in the Multiplex wiring harness, into the fusalage.
It gets done before the fusalage shells get joined. 
The Multiplex kit supplied plug carriers (wing to fus) don’t accept the Multiplex supplied harnesses specific to the kit. This is all Multiplex stuff, no third parties.

I’ve researched, and I think I see a small difference between the two and a small fettle fix with a knife, will fix. I think, a very small design change over time. 

Can anyone give a photo of the wing root wiring. From the wing end, and fus end. Nice and big, but still giving easy orientation.

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