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New Panic


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I'm just nearing the end of building a JP Panic.

I bought an SC61 two stroke at our club 'bring and buy' sale last year for a tenner, and needed a plane for it. The Panic seemed like a good match.

I decided on a Panic but only as a fun plane to fly rather than for out and out madness!

I'll post on the 'New models let's see 'em' thread when it's complete and ready to fly.

No real problems with the build but despite the full colour 'build manual' it does leave plenty for the individual builder to design.

GDB

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It really depends on how light you can build it. The JP kit Panic has a very similar construction to the ARTF one available a while ago and is a relatively light weight construction so it should fly well on a 52 2 stroke. The original Avicraft foam wing, slab side balsa Panic usually came out heaver and required a bigger engine due to weighing anything up to 8Lb. My collection of panics all have Irvine 72s and will perform pretty much anything I ask of them but I do think a 90 2 stroke can be a bit much as I heard of one with a 90 which ripped the cabane struts right out in a positive G manoeuvre, there wasn't much left as a result.

A.

Edited By Andy Stephenson on 14/12/2020 22:31:33

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  • 2 months later...

Hi, Just about finished my Panic but was wondering what kind of connection you use to join bottom aileron to the top aileron bearing in mind 

that it will have to be disconnected after each flying session. I was going to use a clevise at one end but don't think after plenty of use it will stand up to constantly 

being unclipped. Thank you

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Bees,

 

This is the way I do it on my fleet of panics. I drill a 1/8" hole in the TE of each aileron at an angle which matches the offset between the wings. I CA in a short length of plastic snake inner. Then a 2mm helmet style ball-link is screwed into the snake. The joiner rod has a piece of 2mm threaded rod CAed into a dowel with the plastic cup end mounted onto the threaded rod. Using this system it's easy and quick to rig and de-rig the wings. Don't inset the metal ball part into the aileron parallel with the surface because at full throw the ball will knuckle out of the cup.

Panic.JPG

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  • 1 month later...

I used 3 layers of 25 g per square meter glass skinning cloth,  2, 4, and 6 inches wide. 
one wing was done with skinning resin, applied with a radiator roller.

the other done with Superphatic wicking water based resin, also rolled on.
It was an experiment, compare and contrast the difference. Both are neat, the joint is invisible under the film covering. Both passed a 10 g stress test. 
 

If I’m being picky, I prefer the epoxy system, but I am used to using the stuff, have very accurate 0.1 gram scales, and in a previous existence had to do potentially messy stuff, without causing a mess. 

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I've heard it said by a very experienced modeller that just epoxying two foam cored wing panels and not reinforcing it with anything would be perfectly sound. I have never been tempted to try this myself. I think the most important point about glassing the centre section is that it is more about stopping the fuselage sides digging into the veneer and particularly on the Panic the cabane struts on a heavy landing.

I have used the feather method Don describes when glassing and it makes it much easier to hide the join, that said I wouldn't bother on a Panic as it's a flier's model and not for concourse.

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The laws of physics say otherwise. This  wing is an inch thick. Glue the foam together, it  bends, and parts. The skins will be better. How much do you expect a stress skin of .5 mm to take, bear in mind, how good are you at lining up the skins, assuming the cutter is that accurate to allow you the luxury of an accurate coming together. And if you don’t want hooligan flying, why do a Panic.

Ugly joins are an affront to beauty. Why settle for less. Evan a Panic has a certain  (pugnacious) beauty. 

My example is currently under repair. The ground came up and hit it. The wings sustained no centre section damage. Other bits broke. 
The glass skins have girt big surfaces to glue to, and so, when stressed, the shear forces are small. 

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