DB Spitfire Build

[Tim Flyer]

By the way the cowl looks loose in the pictures as it isn’t screwed down... I put my usual 3mm threaded inserts int the cowl support blocks once screwed down the panel gap is quite small . 

[Chris Berry]

I've been reading with interest. Some good work there and looks the business!

 

I'm just about to start a Hurricane build and the thing worrying me the most is the engine choice.

I'd like a Laser and I know Jon was building one with a 200 in a significantly modified kit.

 

Ideally a 180 is what I'd like but I don't think it'll have enough oomph!

 

I'm not keen on 2 Stoke Chinese stuff, with the other option being an OS or Saito 4s petrol. I know Wayne Cox has just started one and is using an OS40.

 

Do you have a weight yet for your Spitfire Tim?

Cheers

[Ron Gray]

Which Hurricane are you building Chris?

[Tim Flyer]

Thank you Chris. I agree totally regarding engines, I’m afraid I have never yet seen a 2stroke in a Warbird that actually sounds nice. The moped noise spoils it for me . Regarding weight I’m also keeping the build as light as possible but I’m afraid I can’t give a realistic weight until I get a lot further on with the build. 

[Chris Berry]

31 minutes ago, Ron Gray said:

Which Hurricane are you building Chris?

Its a DB kit. A Z38 is one option. Plenty of power and heavy but it's still a 2 stroke.

[Chris Berry]

4 minutes ago, Tim Flyer said:

Thank you Chris. I agree totally regarding engines, I’m afraid I have never yet seen a 2stroke in a Warbird that actually sounds nice. The moped noise spoils it for me . Regarding weight I’m also keeping the build as light as possible but I’m afraid I can’t give a realistic weight until I get a lot further on with the build. 

I'll be watching with eager anticipation!

[Ron Gray]

Agree with Tim re 2 strokes in a warbird. It would be the Laser 200 in-line twin for me.

[Jon H]

I have a 240v shoehorned into my DB Hurricane. In all honesty the work to fit it wasnt too bad and certainly not a big issue if you are building the kit from scratch. There is a chap in finland using our 180 in his DB Hurri. Its about 26bs apparently but he seems very happy with the performance. I think it needs a bit more and would always recommend a 180 only if you are getting under 20lbs, and that is unlikely. 

[Chris Berry]

4 hours ago, Jon - Laser Engines said:

I have a 240v shoehorned into my DB Hurricane. In all honesty the work to fit it wasnt too bad and certainly not a big issue if you are building the kit from scratch. There is a chap in finland using our 180 in his DB Hurri. Its about 26bs apparently but he seems very happy with the performance. I think it needs a bit more and would always recommend a 180 only if you are getting under 20lbs, and that is unlikely. 

Wow, that 180 will be working hard!

I like how you've installed the 240, cooling is key, as ever!

[Tim Flyer]

Thought I would do a small update after being a bit distracted recently. 
The build is continuing although at a slightly slower pace as I slowly “bring everything together “.

 

 I continued the fit out the other day and mounted the air retract valve switch and servo next to the rudder and elevator servos on the front rails. The LIFE batteries and receiver will be mounted further forward on the platform above the fuel tank. After the fitting I removed the servos ready for fuel proofing internally. I always do that so a leaky tank won’t ruin the model. Once it’s fuel proofed I will install the pull pull rudder system but not connect it finally until after exterior painting. The long wire hinges in the kit should make the dreaded painting much easier! 
 

Today I glassed the bottom of one wing . Glassing is my favourite part of building now..it’s so relaxing. Since I bought the foam rollers from Bucks Composites its even easier and way faster. The foam roller allows minimum coating and no excess weight. It also seems so stick the matting down better and remove excess air far more efficiently than brushing. 
 

 

 

 

[Tim Flyer]

I have now got a bit further along. The air cooling for the cowl is done and dummy exhaust stacks attached. The cowl just needs a bit of tidying up with car body filler and then it’s ready for priming.
 

 

 

The fuselage is also ready for priming. 
I’m also starting to assemble the Mick Reeves 1:5 scale instrument panel . This is very nicely detailed but a bit too big for the DB Spitfire but I’m modifying it slightly to fit by reducing the centre section and cutting in half. More on that later.
 

Another modification I made was adding a centre plastic wing bolt to hold the two wing sections together. This makes getting the wing in and out of the plane and setting up much easier without the risks of the wings coming apart an being damaged. 

Edited July 2, 2021 by Tim Flyer

[Tim Flyer]

This last photo shows the bottom extractor scoop I put in place . Of course it detracts from scale but as you can see from side profile it is hardly noticeable especially when the wing is on . 

 

 

[Lorenz Mueller]

On 08/04/2021 at 19:31, Tim Flyer said:

Thank you Jon that sounds perfect . The decals I bought were the standard DB ones “ZDB”

https://www.dbsportandscale.com/spitfire-mk-1a-kit-6502-p.asp

 

Hi Alan I do remember that scheme as I have it on an Airfix mk 1 assembled for my son some time ago. Having one wing black and the other white obviously is great for scale but I don’t think it would  good for orientation in the sky as it might confuse and to be honest I’m happy just having if looking like the one on the box. 

I did my small RBC Spitfire with black/white undersides and it actually is great for orientation.

It would depend on the time period you'd like to model - 1939 with black/white undersides, dark earth/dark green topside camouflage, 1940-42 duck egg blue undersides, and from 1942 on the ocean grey/dark green camouflage and medium sea grey undersides, arguably hardest to see. Obviously by that time there weren't too many Mk.I Spits left...

Interiors in all Spitfires were grey-green.

Great build!

Lorenz

[Tim Flyer]

Thank you very much Lorenz for your helpful and kind comments .
I have recently just bought the duck egg blue and dark green and dark enamel paints so it will be a 1940-42 version as you said.
Now the cowl is finished I will start priming once the weather improves ?

[Tim Flyer]

Just a short update. I have been busy painting. I decided not to bother with rivets and panel lines as my painting isn’t good enough to warrant that detail, and thus us still a stand off scale model.

 

I have modified Mick  Reeves 1:5 instrument set to fit and trimmed the canopy, painted the pilot, cut out and painted the spinner. 

 

One slight frustration is that the decals DB Sport and scale provide for this model are those for a MK IX and this is clearly a MK1.  I’m exploring other methods to make the proper ones. 
 

I would like the paint scheme to be similar to this one At Duxford 

[Tim Flyer]

This is a mk IIa I believe,  but it shares the shorter nose of the MkI and also had the 4 .303 guns , I think the cannons were first fitted on the MK IIb. I don’t want to fit wing cannons and would rather keep as simple as possible ?

Edited August 24, 2021 by Tim Flyer

[Graham Davies 3]

1 hour ago, Tim Flyer said:

Just a short update. I have been busy painting. I decided not to bother with rivets and panel lines as my painting isn’t good enough to warrant that detail, and thus us still a stand off scale model.

Don't be frightened of it Tim. From the Richard Wills school of finishing, it's dead easy and makes a huge difference to the appearance. Even at stand off scale, it really brings the model alive.

 

Apply lines with a black sharpie, and then a white gel pen just to one side (always the same side, from a 'falling light' point of view. Make this line 'broken' to replicate light falling on the gap.

 

Rivets, similar way. A semi circle in black (a 'u') and a semi circle in white (an 'n').

 

Then, get a pack of chalks. I have a set that graduates from grey to white. apply a strip of masking tape on your panel line 'upwind'. Rub chalk onto the tape (dark chalk against light colours, lighter chalk against darker colours) and then smear it from the tape to the model in the direction of the airflow. Panel gaps that are along the airflow benefit from a little on both sides.

 

Careful application of silver or gold sharpies smeared with your fingertip give the impression of wear to bare metal for places such as climb points into the cockpit, and randomly on leading edges.

 

I'm certainly no expert, and many others on this forum are far better at it, but it's not hard, and really satisfying as your model slowly comes to life.

 

Graham

[Jon H]

Chalks and an A4 sheet of paper are a really easy way to make panel line detail. I draw a line of brown chalk down the edge, and then have other lined of chalk at 90 degrees to the edge. A mix of browns, blacks, white/grey. Line it up where you want and just smudge with a finger. You can even mask off certain panels/lines and then mist some brown/black paint over the whole thing. Remove the masking and you will have some panels in a different shade. Bit of chalk and its all done. Just make sure you dont touch anything with your chalky finger. Finger prints on the model are not scale!

 

You can also stick on panels of anything. Self adhesive chrome plastic is my choice as you stick it on, paint, and then a quick once over with 400 grit wet/dry wears all the paint off the corners leaving the shiny silver showing through. Aluminium tape can work as well if you are able to apply it smoothly. 

 

Another option is to mask off some panels, spray over with a coat of primer, remove masks. physical panel lines now in evidence and they will show through the final paint. 

 

No need to go mad, but a little work really helps bring them to life. My Hurricane has an awful paint job due to my spray gun being on its last legs and some deliberate work on my part. The fuel proofer is a bit patchy with some areas with more of a sheen than others. Looks perfect though as you wouldnt find many aircraft in the BoB with immaculate paint finishes. 

Edited August 24, 2021 by Jon - Laser Engines

[Ron Gray]

For panel lines I use chart tape. 1 coat primer / undercoat on surface, rubbed down. Apply chart tape then localised 2 or 3 coats more primer / undercoat. Rub down to top of chart tape then peel off. Surface now ready to receive topcoat.

 

[Tim Flyer]

Thanks for your ideas chaps some very good methods. Making me think I may have a go . 

[Jon H]

Its quite rewarding. And if it all goes wrong just wash it off. 

 

To be honest, just make it all grubby. Perfect lines are not really needed. 

[Ron Gray]

Difficult to wash my lines off! But always remember, less is more.

Edited August 24, 2021 by Ron Gray

[Walts]

Here's another vote for Chart tape panel lines. You can also add raised panel detail effectively using an assortment of sticky back foil tape, and plastic card. The heavier detail on my Hurricane like undercarriage bay stiffners, and wing joiner straps were made with thin plastic card, the raised panels (gun hatches, inspection hatches etc) were made with sticky back foil, and the panel lines done in the method Ron described. Once primed you see it all come together. Then once painted it adds another dimension to the model. Also subtle weathering is easier then, using a dirty wash, wiped on with a rag in the direction of the natural air flow over the aircraft. This catches and builds up naturally in the panel lines and in front of raised detail leaving a subtle streak behind provided you are using a very diluted wash.

I like to think of my builds in three stages. The actual physical build, then the covering and obtaining a perfectly smooth finish, then the actual finish i.e. detailing and painting. If you take a step back before starting the final stage, and treat it as a completely new venture giving it it's own allocation of time and input. you will be surprised at what you can achieve. Stage two can hide a multitude of sins from stage one, but doing stage two properly is critical of achieving decent results in stage Three.

Having put the time in to build a lovely large model like this, why don't you give it a go, you'll never look back I guarantee it ? 

Edited August 25, 2021 by Walts
typo

[Tim Flyer]

I thought I would give a quick update to say that finishing work is still ongoing and must admit I’m actually enjoying it as long as I can make myself go slowly ! I have realised the maiden flight will realistically be in the spring . That will allow paint to harden properly plus allow me to enjoy the final build stages. 
 

I have painted the fuselage now and the wings are waiting for their top brown camouflage. I have also started making panel lines with a sharpie pen. Thanks for all the advice on that chaps! I will be weathering them in etc. later. 

 

One other thing I would like to say is THANK YOU PYRAMID MODELS! 
https://www.pyramidmodels.com
I ordered a number of suitable decals to replace the incorrect Mk 9 ones DB supplied for this kit.
 

I will be basing my model on the mk1  AR213 EJZ. 

I ordered the decals on Tuesday from Pyramid Models and they arrived today(Thursday).  They seem excellent quality and I’m looking forward to fitting  them! Pyramid seem to do loads of different decals… I wish I had discovered them earlier. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jon H]

Looks great, and your pilot is pretty flash. Where did he come from?