Jon H Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Posted by Tim Flyer on 13/01/2021 21:15:17: My split wing might complicate it a bit... Nah, just keep the air tank, filling valve and selector valve in one wing and have two disconnects for the lonely retract in the other wing. Alternatively, have them plumbed together but with sufficient length of spare tube to one side to allow the wing to come apart. You can then fold the wings like a book and store them as one lump but with everything still connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 Thanks Jon👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LHR Dave Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Good work Tim Were there any problems with the washout by following the instructions as Jon said there could be? I forgot to ask you last time i was on here, what was the waiting time from ordering to getting the Unitracts ? Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 Thanks Dave . The honest answer regarding washout is that I don’t know if there will be a difference as I haven’t started the second wing yet. My first wing seems ok and I did my best to follow instructions. I guess the big problem comes if the two wings don’t match properly . The leading edge and tip sanding etc is done later on and then I will be able to properly compare the two wings . i glued in the little flap torque rod today . I decided to “bush” the hole where the wire goes through the spar with a short piece of plastic tube and hardened the area with thin cyano. As I have used standard ailerons I have a bit of plastic tube spare . Edited By Tim Flyer on 14/01/2021 10:32:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Hi, Tim, I have just started mine its an earlier foam wing version I have the tail done and just started joining the fuz parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Hi Rusty good to hear from you and I look forward to comparing notes. I think there are a few pictures on the web of the foam wing version build. Today I continued with the split flaps. I glued the ribs onto the dowel with cyano. I used aliphatic Tite bond to glue the flap sheeting down as I was a bit concerned about accidentally spilling cyano on the wrong part and ending up with “stuck” rather than split flaps 😊. Just waiting for glue to set then I can carry on . I’m still thinking about solution to tie down the flexible flap joiner . As mentioned earlier DB suggest plastic coated electrical wire. I had thought of making a miniature saddle clamp from tin plate using very small screws to secure it ...but I haven’t decided yet . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 Tim, that little inboard flap section needs a bend on it. The underside of the spit wing has quite a gull wing sweep to it and you will need to replicate that for the flap to line up. See photo Its not explained very well in the plan and i think you should add a little spar ahead of the flap leading edge to support this gull wing shape Edited By Jon - Laser Engines on 15/01/2021 12:35:28 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 Thanks Jon . That first photo was with just one of the small flap ribs in . I have now added the others and clamped it to form a bend . As you said I think it might need an additional spa in front of the small flap in order to match the lower sheeting . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 15, 2021 Author Share Posted January 15, 2021 The plan doesn’t mention the bend at all in the small flap so lucky you mentioned it 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 15, 2021 Share Posted January 15, 2021 My photo has gone for some reason. Anyone know why? Anyway, the inboard end of the inner flap needs to bend upwards. Dry fit some of the inboard sheeting and you will see what i mean. This is another photo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 I see exactly what you mean . Given the fact that the kit uses a straight dowel to attach the small flap, a substantial curve in the flap would leave the inner edge unsupported. A profiled cone shaped dowel would allow a better result. I I have put a twist in the flap so the trailing edge will be level with the inner sheeting. It’s a reasonable compromise and if necessary later, I can add material to the inner edge further forward. It’s hard to see in the pictures though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Yea with a straight dowel it is a bit tricky. On the one i worked on before i made little 1/16 ply ribs to support it but you are right, the flap skin did not touch the dowel and was just floating on the support ribs. I need to find a photo of the full size to see how it looks on the internal structure As a side note though, the surface finish on wartime spitfires was as rough as a badgers backside. The panel fit is not exactly flush! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 16, 2021 Author Share Posted January 16, 2021 I put some sheeting on to check the fit and it’s quite good. All I may very possibly do is add a small fillet to the edge of the small flap near the front . The rear with the twist I put in matches the trailing edge quite well . This morning I laminated the inside of the flap bay and flaps with some ultra light glass cloth and pva to provide some extra stiffness/durability as recommended in the instructions. It was easier and less messy than using epoxy. I will go over any weak spots and gaps in high load areas with epoxy later. For gap filling in stress areas epoxy with ground cotton makes a superb filler. Obviously I’m keeping everything as light as possible on this build ! 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 Flaps completed today. A fair bit of sanding was required on the wing and the large flap to accommodate the full opening angle required as per the plan and instructions. I will glue in the flexible shaft after painting and fix a retaining strap a bit later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 17, 2021 Author Share Posted January 17, 2021 The photos were taken before adding epoxy reinforcement to nylon tubes and torque rods etc . Edited By Tim Flyer on 17/01/2021 17:03:58 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 18, 2021 Author Share Posted January 18, 2021 This is the flap retaining clamp I made. When I finally fit the flaps after painting I will epoxy in the two screws which will then be easy to remove if necessary by swift application of a soldering iron before unscrewing . A small rebate on the rib needed to be filed to accommodate the bracket and screws. Edited By Tim Flyer on 18/01/2021 17:09:50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 19, 2021 Author Share Posted January 19, 2021 I put the flap servo and it’s linkage in today . I first added a lite ply base and added birch ply fixings. The base isn’t mentioned on the plan but I think it necessary. I also had to enlarge the hole for the pushrod. and added birch ply fixings. There seems to be the odd block of ply and saddle clamps in the kit but in the absence of a parts list I’m saving any bits of “unknown “ hardware until I really need it or it’s obvious for what it’s intended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 First annoying mistake emerged today but now corrected I hadn’t previously tested the retracts as I was worried about having sufficient air tubing and connectors. I found out today that I did not allow enough room for the forward sweep of the wheels and legs as they extend. This resulted in me needing to rebuild the retract well. Aaaaaargh! Anyway it’s almost done now ! After plenty of cutting sanding etc. I have been used to electric retracts which are simple plug and play. With these units I don’t have spare tubing and connectors so I didn’t cycle them before putting in the wheel wells . That was a mistake. I used a shock absorber pump and cycled the retract with no problem today. Luckily I only have one wing built and have yet to start the second so it’s not a duplicated error. I need to complete retract installation screwing them to the mounts. I will need a fillet of ply around 2-3mm on each side of the mount to lift it in order to give enough wheel clearance in the bay Edited By Tim Flyer on 20/01/2021 17:47:14 Edited By Tim Flyer on 20/01/2021 17:48:31 Edited By Tim Flyer on 20/01/2021 17:49:30 Edited By Tim Flyer on 20/01/2021 17:50:24 Edited By Tim Flyer on 20/01/2021 17:51:33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Anyway I have learnt one thing. The geometry of a retract unit is quite complex when there are three planes of motion. The mounts are tilted forward but there is also a pintle angle , so the sweep as they extend is substantially forwards! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LHR Dave Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Hi Tim, that was a pain to have to do, as you say at least it was only on one of the wings. Sounds like things are progressing though. Do you think you will be able to post a video of the retracts working? I think I will be ordering my retracts soon so watching with great interest. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Hi Dave . Cheers... I thought it worth mentioning in case anyone else makes same mistake. The wheels move well forwards in their ark . It was a pain as so far it has been a relatively neat job and I hate cutting out and redoing new work. I will put a link to the retracts moving on this thread and post video clip on u tube once they are properly installed. Edited By Tim Flyer on 20/01/2021 18:43:55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Smitham Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Really enjoying following this build Tim.But you have convinced me I'm a build or two away from attempting this kit.The DB spit was on my potential next build list. But the information and pictures are continuing my education in the dark arts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie holdford Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 Hi Tim Ive not been so well recently, but better now I have just received my spit kit, its next in line for the building bench.... following with interest, Thanks for the thread... charlie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil McCavity Posted January 20, 2021 Share Posted January 20, 2021 The dreaded pintle angle! I must get around to understanding them one day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Flyer Posted January 20, 2021 Author Share Posted January 20, 2021 Hi chaps! Thanks for your interest ! I’m pleased you’re better Charlie and look forward to hearing about your build. Bob in terms of building it isn’t that hard but certainly needs thinking about at each stage and having a few builds under your belt is good. Seeing/flying a fully built model at first hand first would also be useful if it was your first Warbird. I have recently built a few smaller Warbird kits and a SLEC Chipmunk and a number of sports planes as well as an 80” Seagull Hurricane which is ARTF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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