Bench Design

[Andy J]

Interested to get some advice regarding construction of 2.4m long bench which will double up as a building board.

Aware the attached drawing is rather crude but thinking of using 63x38mm studding timber to create supports with each of the legs supported by a M10 bolt on a wooden foot. The purpose of the bolt being that each support will be adjustable in height to create a level work top.

Worktop wood be floor grade chipboard covered in 12mm cork.

Is this design going to work or can it be improved?

[Phil McCavity]

Put it on castors so you can move it about would be my recommendation.

[Robert Parker]

Hi Andy,

Looks good to me, I like the idea of adjustable legs.

I built mine from 50 x 50mm pse timber frame with 18mm WBP ply with an acoustic board fixed on to it for my building board and just the 18mm ply for the workbench areas and forming cupboards below. I formed a "U" shape, the doors keep the dust out and I can store all my unbuilt models and tools.

The "building board" is 2400 x 900, difficult to imagine with all that clutter, the left workbench is 2200 x 600 and the right bench is 1500 x 600, just the right size for the kit boxes, the doors are made from Oak faced MDF with kitchen cupboard hinges,

I don't seem to have any photos of a clear bench, always building. I think this gives a general idea though.

hope to be of some help

[kc]

It is much easier to make the joints as simple lapped joints screwed and glued. That is to say it would not be flush at the ends unless infilled.  Cross pieces could be wider but a little thinner - makes construction easier.

The bench top need a top rail to support it and prevent sagging. and this could overhang the lower rail which could be inside legs to provide toe room.

Adjustable raised feet mean tiny things can get lost underneath! Personally I would use thin ply to level up

Plywood or MDF or OSB would make a better bench top in my view. 

  Money and time could be saved by first obtaining drawers and doors from old kitchen units and making bench sized to fit them.

Edited By kc on 06/01/2021 19:04:40

[Colin Carpenter]

When I built my shed 30 years ago I bought a 1960 sideboard from Sally Ann shop and raised it to workbench height ! Plenty of storage space ! About 6ft long. Veneers lifting now 😂😂😂

[kc]

If you are building it in a garage consider this idea which would enable garage to be partioned off and still allow a car in.

[kc]

My ideas for simple workbench construction.
Wood size should be proportionate to the overall size. For a 2 metre long bench for light use then perhaps legs at least 70 x 45mm with horizontal rails 120 x 18mm. Legs at each end of course plus 1 or preferably 2 intermediate legs for the 2 metre bench.

I suggest cutting all legs and also rails to correct lengths at purchase by giving B&Q etc a cutting list and asking them to cut on their panel saw. Also get them to cut any ply or MDF etc to size much easier than dealing with 8 x 4 sheet yourself. Fits in the car easily too. This means working out the exact sizes first and being sure they will work!

If cutting the parts yourself then getting a square end is important - I find a Nobex magnetic saw guide very useful to get an accurate 90 degree cut both ways using a cheap handsaw. Proper carpenters will sneer at this gadget but it works well for those whose muscles are not trained to cut square! Much safer than an electric chop saw and quieter.

I suggest joining each leg to rail with M6 coach bolts or roofing bolts. Legs should preferably have the longer dimension across the front to make a rigid bench. Drill each leg and rail one by one on the bench using a simple jig to ensure hole is placed correctly and hole goes in at 90 degrees. Then assemble a pair of legs to make ends - if you want a closed in cupboard then join them to a 12mm MDF sheet cut square which will ensure a square end. MDF should not quite reach floor but clear by at least 12mm in case floor has any bumps. Screw the 45mm edge of the legs to the MDF using the accurate edges to get a really square end. Or use 120mm crosspieces instead of MDF.
When both ends are made the rails can be fitted using 1 bolt on each joint. When whole frame is nice and square insert a screw to each joint as well. I reckon the lower rail shoud be inside the legs to give toe room. Top rail goes outside the leg. Then fit intermediat legs and cross pieces to support bench top. Bench could have an MDF back to ensure it stays square and does not 'rack' or a couple of diagonals added instead.
Bench top is a matter of choice - I suggest 2 layers of 12mm MDF. I like to use loose building boards placed on bench top so they can be removed to allow working on other parts whilst glue dries. Plasterboard is best for building boards in my opinion.
Well worth fiting a carpenters vice to the front - inset it takes no room and provides a way to fit any number of items like supports, wire bender, model stand, bench hook etc All instantly fitted or removed if each is on a block of wood.. In addition fix a few 6mm threaded inserts from below which can again be used for holding items to bench.

Edited By kc on 10/01/2021 14:32:32

Edited By kc on 10/01/2021 14:36:37

[Andy J]

Thanks for the advice KC. Had modified the design to include top rails prior to your post but still think there is some room for improvement in the design as pictured.

Had also thought of incorporating a fuselage jig system in the bench top as per the SLEC design but think their plastic uprights are weak so have looked around for better designs made in wood.

Surprised at the timber size you recommend for the legs. Is this from personnel experience of bench building or is carpentry your main trade in life? Was intending to have three sets of legs over the proposed length of 2.2m but could easily increase that to 4. Probably would be a benefit to use 4 as intend to use the back legs as a support for shelves.

To add some complexity the design needs to float with respect to the back wall rather than being fixed to the shed structure as have been advised that the 28mm logs used in its construction will move over time. Hence thinking the back uprights will only have one bolt fixing it to the wall which will be fitted in a slot to allow the upright to move in the vertical axis.

[kc]

I suppose the size of the timber depends on what you want to do with the bench. My suggestion was for a free standing bench that does not need to be fixed to a wall. The thinking being that you may move it around and might move house or get a better workshop etc. The size of the timber allows an overlap that produces a good joint with little skill.

You could economise on timber - for example I built a light bench about 1961 for use in my shed as photographic darkroom bench. It is still in use today in my house as a bench to store planes and I did build planes on it once. It is made of 50 x 25mm softwood with dowel joints and glued with Evostik Resin W. size is about 1.9 metres long by 500mm. top is 17mm Contiboard veneered chipboard. It just about survived 5 house moves but wouldn't stand much more moving and couldnt be relied on to avoid sagging. But if I built it today I would use stouter timber. On the other hand I have built several handy low benches about 450mm high and 800mm by 500 made from scrap 100mm by 50mm legs and rails from 100mm by 20mm. Much sturdier and used for everything from standing on to cut the hedges, cutting sheet timber etc. Dead easy to make and lasted through all sorts of abuse. So my suggestion was for something between the two. Less work to build a simple bench with overlapped stout timber but costs more.

At the outset decide what is the ideal height bench for you - worth standing alongside kitchen units and see if height should be same or more. Before writing I consulted " The Workshop Book" by Scott Landis and that has everything from crude benches to dream stuff no expense spared. Fascinating USA book but the gist is make something to suit yourself and your height.

My background - amatuer who did everything on a strict budget. My benches-

Woodwork bench with 60mm x 40mm Dexion steel angle base with 25mm chipboard top but beech front with front Record vice and Record end vice. Made 1973 from scrap Dexion & cheapest chipboard - wish i had used better. In outer part of garage for dirty dusty heavy work.

Several Dexion built benches for storage. Inner part of partitioned garage.

Small bench from scrap timber to take bench pillar drill and electric fretsaw at 45 degrees to each other.

Main plane building bench - a B& D Workmate with many tops to suit work in hand each top has a batten to clamp in the jaws. Could be brought indoors in winter for clean balsa work with sanding done outdoors or on the woodwork bench. Probably all one really needs for balsa planes........

Edited By kc on 10/01/2021 17:47:59

[ColdLazerus]

kc ... you put your CAR in the garage?

[kc]

There is a cheaper source for the Nobex magnetic guide and I think its worth that for anyone who has difficulty with getting square cuts in thick timber. You could make one yourself using large hatch magnets set in a block of wood ( I made one ) but the proper thing is better as it handy to grip and it's adjustable angle too.

Yesterday i came across an article in RC Modeler USA April 2001 which showed a bench with adjustable top support by multiple adjustable 5/16 thread bolts. Just the top is adjustable. He made his bench from 100mm sq legs, bracing by 50mm by 100mm with 18mm spruce ply top. ( He used inches of course I have converted for you as you may be metric unlike me - I use " EssexMetric" - inches when that's handy or mm when that's better. )

[kc]

ColdLazerus - No , much to the disgust of my wife our nice new car spends it's life in the drive despite having a double garage! One is a workshop the other garage is a hanger and full of junk - good junk.

My proposal for the over car bench was intended for our previous house but never built as we bought a house with double garage........

Edited By kc on 10/01/2021 18:11:54

[kc]

For stability a lightweight bench really needs the leg directly under the edge of the work top otherwise it levers the thing over. In a really heavy bench it could have the edge just a little over and the weight of the structure helps. Especially if you build a shelf high the extra leverage will cause things to fall off the shelf just by pressure on the edge - in my view. Much better to attach the shelf alone to the wall.

I would suggest you consider a batten along the back of the bench to form a slot to allow sharp tools, saws, and screwdrivers etc to slot in but be at hand when needed. ( some people really hate this idea but I find it useful )

[Andy J]

Surprised few have commented on the use of adjustable feet as thinking this could be real weak point in the design. Proposal was to use a 10mm or 12mm threaded stud fixed into a 80mm diam wooden furniture foot with the adjustment provided by a single nut working against a 50mm square washer positioned under each bench leg. A second nut could also act as a lock nut but suspect this is not required for a simple building bench which will see little vibration from rotary tools.

Cutting of timber should not be a major problem as have a large sliding chop saw which should handle 100 x 50.

Certainly a good idea to get the wood cut at B&Q but seem to recall the last time I asked they would only cuts boards rather than timber but will ask again.

Briefly looked at the price of beech for the bench leading edge. Pricy but probably better than using a softer wood.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Can't see any problems with the adjustable feet myself, unless theirs damp in there softwood should be fine. Mines been up donkeys years and no issues.

Pay attention to the height of it, wants to be a comfortable height for working on or you'll get back/neck ache.

[kc]

I don't like adjustable feet - more work and likely to wobble- but its your bench!

63 by 38 timber should be satisfactory, although thinner but deeper rails are easier to use and should sag less. A lapped joint with coachbolts should be OK for easy construction. Glue could be applied too.

Are you making the thing as one 2.4 metre bench. Or two 1.2 m units bolted together? Can you manouvre 2.4 m unit thro the doorway and into position? Can you get to the ends to make if the building is not much more than 2.4m? Is there room to swing the 2.4m lengths around whilst you build? 

A good idea is to make a cutting plan for the sheet material and see if just by altering the cut you can get a slightly narrower bit for the shelf from the top material. Let B&Q do the work for you!

As usual i am playing devils advocate to bring out the problems if any.

Edited By kc on 11/01/2021 17:49:21

[kc]

The design should incorporate diagonals at about 45 degrees or sheet material on the back to stop it going out of shape whilst placing in position.

The beech front on my bench was only needed as it's a woodwork bench where much wood is clamped to the front.  Also dowel pegs can be inserted to support timber whilst planing.  Not needed for a light bench.  

The beech was free - part of an old 1970's sofa being scrapped.  Furniture of that age especially chairs is a good free source of nice seasoned beech.   Save & cut down chair legs for engine bearers etc.

Edited By kc on 11/01/2021 18:04:28

[Andy J]

Plan would be to build the bench in situe KC so will have to avoid any screw joints at the rear although suspect I can make each of the uprights in the garage first before erecting them inside the shed.

Bench top will have to be in two parts as I know a 2.4m run of mdf will not fit in my car. Will use my biscuit joiner to ensure a level joint although from past experience you don't always get a perfect joint with it.

Did have some 1/2" thick cork on order for the work top working surface but have yet to see that order arrive so suspect the supplier has let me down.

Shed arrives next week from Holland so that will keep me busy for a few days / weeks before I have to think about the bench.

[Mike T]

Posted by Andy Joyce on 11/01/2021 16:51:28:

Surprised few have commented on the use of adjustable feet as thinking this could be real weak point in the design

Not at all. I used "3 be 2" PAR for the framework of my fitted benches. The legs were cut back to 2 x 2" at the foot and clearance holes drilled for the T nuts that were banged in. 12mm hex bolts were screwed into the T nuts to act as resilient, adjustable feet, to ensure the top rails could be trimmed out parallel. There are no locknuts on the bolts. Once trimmed out, they haven't been touched. I fitted carpet squares after the bench was installed, so the bolts can't even be seen.

One thing I couldn't do without is the mobile bench in the middle of the workshop. This is constructed on an old 600 x 600mm kitchen base unit, with an 18mm MDF top and extensions on either side mounted on some very heavy duty (but cheap!) fold-down hinges. It has castors at the back which only touch the ground when the front is lifted using a couple of fold-away handles, which makes it easier to heavey around in the limited space I have available (rear 3/4 of a partitioned-off single garage).

The middle bench is essential as the others are now all covered with crap...

[kc]

Andy,

I suggest using coachbolts ( or hexagon head bolts with captive nuts ) for the inaccesible joints. Obviously coachbolts don't work with captive nuts and roofing bolts need screwdriver but hex bolts tightened with a socket and ratchet would save a lot of effort at the back.

You might consider making the benchtop 2.4 m but making the bench only 1.8m and allow 500mm or 600mm for a drawer unit at one end. Supporting the overhanging end on the drawer unit. Make it easier to fit into a narrow space and drawer space is better than cupboard space. I

If the bench top has to be in 2 parts consider whether the joint would be better placed off centre as even an accurate biscuit joint might leave a tiny gap if you could get 1.5m in your car then the joint would not affect a 1.5m wing etc.

I came across a plan for a bench in a Great Planes manual when I was looking for something else - worth a glance as it shows how the rails overlap similar to my design but they use 50mm by 100mm in typical USA overdesigned style.

I think the idea of a mobile bench is a good  one - ever since I scrapped a TV but kept the castor base I have been meaning to make one.

 

Edited By kc on 13/01/2021 18:56:49

[Andy J]

Well thought I had a level bench by building into the design adjustable feet but unfortunately not! Having checked the completed bench which is now 4 months old now find the 3/4 inch ply top has warped across the width such that the surface now has a 1/16 inch hump running parallel to the length so not much good as a building board.  Have tried adding several new screws but to little avail so now looking for an alternative building board.

 

Given the bench surface is no longer level thinking plaster board will only sag or bend with the bench surface so is glass my only alternative to achieve a true surface on which to build from?

 

 

[jrman]

Replace the ply with kitchen worktop then your building base material on top. Worktop rarely warps.(Famous last words!) 

[Nigel R]

I'm about to order a couple of lengths of kitchen worktop to use.

 

As jrman says, this stuff rarely warps.

 

I use a building board placed on top of the bench, that way you can shim the board if needed to find tune the board's flatness when it is in place.

[Mike T]

2 hours ago, jrman said:

Replace the ply with kitchen worktop then your building base material on top. Worktop rarely warps.(Famous last words!) 

I used 18mm MDF on my bench and it has remained perfectly flat.  I'm guessing that a particulate construction, like worktop or MDF is more likely to conform to the surface it's fixed to, while plywoods (depending on type) are more likely to try and work out any internal stresses introduced in their manufacture by warping.  Perhaps they need a good therapist?

 

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

I've found 38 x 63 CLS to be good for framing benches - relatively cheap but warp-free and nicely finished with radiused edges.