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Bench Design


Andy J
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Conversely, I bought a lot of 38x63 CLS recently (framed my shed with the stuff, it is cheap and I used region of 200 x 8' lengths) and a lot of it was as bent as a banana and I could only use those if they were cut to short lengths and put in places where it's straightness (or otherwise) didn't matter too much, like noggins or whatever, or where the bend could be lined up with the wall such that didn't affect the structure. My experience being that you'll need to overbuy by a lot to guarantee getting decent straight lengths.

 

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while plywoods (depending on type) are more likely to try and work out any internal stresses introduced in their manufacture by warping.

 

There is ply and there is ply, and some of it is not particularly dry wood when cut and stuck together; I'm looking at cheap constructional ply sold by builders merchants here, that stuff needs to be securely fixed to a rigid structure or it will warp quicker than you can look at it. Nice piece of marine birch ply, on the other hand, be flat for ever, but cost is commensurate. Laminate worktop is as good for the purpose here, and a lot cheaper.

Edited by Nigel R
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You need a separate building board - a benchtop will be affected by the structure and especially one  fixed back to a wall that is wooden.

I have a couple of 1/2 inch ply building boards that are 4ft x 13inches that have stayed flat for 30 years stored vertically, while 1/4 birch ply strips 4 inch wide ( from a balsa supplier!) stored alongside  have twisted to near unusable in months.   

Plasterboard ( in suitable lengths for the model to be built )  is the thing - cheap and does not warp if stored vertically.   I use the plasterboard because it's so much easier to insert pins compared to the ply.   Some plasterboard is wing length and some tailplane size so work continues whilst glue dries.

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I second kc.

 

In my first attempt at hot-wiring I discovered that, when weighted up, my 'straight' bench (substantial steel framed table acquired out of a skip at work ? ), gave a slight, but very frustrating bow to my bagged wings! (Meant I could not cut full length ailerons as they would not operate well with in-built kevlar hinges.)

 

Anyway, I now put a building board on top of the bench and level using A4 paper. I use paper from some old printer reams and don't fold it, which gives solid base which can be easily varied in height depending on number of sheets and placed at different locations under the board to make level.

 

I can now bag unwarped wings ?

 

Edited by Mike Chantler
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