David Davis Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share Posted September 20, 2021 I am currently building the Mystic's tail surfaces. As I shall be fitting a Laser 155 I will follow the advice in the instructions and sheet the tailplane but I have two questions for you knowledgeable gentlemen. The instructions suggest using 1/16" sheet for the tail but Matt Carlton sheeted his tailplane with 1/32" balsa. I have some 1mm balsa left over from building the Big Guff which I really do not have another use for. This is about 1/25." Could I use this wood to sheet the tailplane? The instructions refer to the tailplane being sheeted in 1/16" balsa. Would "tailplane" include the fin as well as the horizontal stabiliser? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted September 22, 2021 Author Share Posted September 22, 2021 I opted to use the 1mm thick balsa left over from the Big Guff build to sheet the tailplane. It's certainly produced a very rigid structure. One question for those who have built a Mystic. In the instructions it recommends that the "tailplane" be sheeted with 1/16" balsa. Do you think that the word "tailplane" incorporates the fin and rudder too? Picture of the part-sheeted tailpane below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted September 22, 2021 Share Posted September 22, 2021 (edited) I'd imagine so. I cannot see any reason why you would want to sheet the tailplane and then leave the fin as an open structure. Are the controls solid sheet or are they also built up? If you have solid wood controls supplied, they may be too thin to match. I may be biased - I make all my tail surfaces using a sheeted framework. Avoids having to find nice, light, and flat, bits of quarter grain wood; end result is lighter than solid and just as stiff. Edited September 22, 2021 by Nigel R 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted September 22, 2021 Author Share Posted September 22, 2021 The fin and rudder are built-up from 1/4" x 3/8" strip. The ailerons and elevator are mde from solid 3/4" TE stock and 3/8" balsa sheet respectively. I think they'll be thick enough but I'll take your tip and sheet the fin and rudder too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted October 30, 2021 Author Share Posted October 30, 2021 Having taken the dog for her morning walk, twice around the footall pitch, and fed her her breakfast, we planed the cockpit sides of the Galaxy Models Mystic first thing this morning using the David's plane. The tail surfaces are covered in 1/32" balsa sheet except for the rudder where I had to use 1/16" sheet well sanded down because I'd run out of 1/32"! The kit builds in to an extremely robust model. I have sometimes found it difficult to identify some of the numbered parts. Is that a 20, 26 or 28 for example? However being a fairly experienced builder I have managed to work out what goes where. The basic structure of the fuselage is now virtually complete but further sanding is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 I have been getting on with the wings of the Mystic. It's been sometime since I've built a foam wing and the previous one only had one centrally mounted servo. On this model I'm going to have one in each wing. I have scooped out a hole for the servo in one of the wings and I intend to line it in 1/8" (3mm) balsa. I'm unsure about how to fit the cables to the servo. Should I, (a) cut a rectanglar groove in the underside of the wing thick enough to allow for the cable and the connector. Then cover it with balsa sanded down to match the wing profile, or... (b) sharpen a tube and cut a tunnel through the foam to the location of the servo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Davies 3 Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 Hi David, Looking good. Regarding holes for the cables, I heat up a nice piece of metal (I have an old rotisserie skewer), line it up from the pocket to the wing root, take deep breath and push! Once you have a hole that comes out in the right place, ease it open so you can pull through the extension cable. Piece of cake! Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Davies 3 Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 Just seen how far from the root your pocket is; you may need to push from the root. If you draw a line on the wing, it will help you keep your poker roughly in line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 1 minute ago, Graham Davies 3 said: Just seen how far from the root your pocket is; you may need to push from the root. If you draw a line on the wing, it will help you keep your poker roughly in line. Thanks for the advice Graham, it's quite a big model. 6 ft wingspan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 I use a sharpened tube, twist and push in stages, withdrawing each time to remove foam from tube. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 Thank you gentlemen. What is the approximate o/d of the tube or skewer you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 I think mine is about ½ “ (approx 12mm). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Davies 3 Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 Mine must be around 6mm square section. You'll need to open up a bit more that that to clear the socket. I use a wire coat hanger to pull the extnsion lead through, suitably taped to the end. It's easier to do than describe! Graham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Berriman Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 I can reccomended the hot skewerd option it melts the hole bigger than the skewer so servo plug does go in easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted December 7, 2021 Author Share Posted December 7, 2021 Having created some passageways for the aileron cables using sharpened tube, I epoxied the wing halves together eartlier this morning. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted December 13, 2021 Author Share Posted December 13, 2021 We all do this don't we? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 Looking good DD, mine arrived yesterday, Christmas present from the wife! I’m planning fitting the Laser 150v in mine, mounted vertically with pots sticking out of the cowl. To that end I ordered another cowl just in case it all goes pear shaped! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted December 13, 2021 Author Share Posted December 13, 2021 As a matter of interest Ron I have a currently unemployed Laser 150v but I've drilled the firewall for the 155. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 Having bought the 150v a couple of months back I looked around for a suitable ‘home’ for it and having looked at countless plans for a scratch build I just kept coming back to the Mystic. It fits the (my) requirements of low wing, narrow fuselage, long(ish) nose and maybe even an open cockpit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted December 13, 2021 Author Share Posted December 13, 2021 The 150V is supposed to be for a quarter scale triplane but a fair bit of life is getting in the way of the aeromodelling just at the moment so that unstarted project is on hold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 I keep looking at this thread and cant shake the idea i posted on the first page about making one into a twin. That or nailing one of the new inline engines on the front. So many choices. Its looking great though DD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 2 hours ago, David Davis said: We all do this don't we? I presume by "this" you mean standing around making neeeooowwwnn noises in my head? Absolutely! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 3 hours ago, Jon - Laser Engines said: I keep looking at this thread and cant shake the idea i posted on the first page about making one into a twin. That or nailing one of the new inline engines on the front. So many choices. Its looking great though DD Or nail 2 fuselages together with a new centre section, and have a twin inline configuration, F82 style. Won’t see many of they. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 6 minutes ago, Don Fry said: Or nail 2 fuselages together with a new centre section, and have a twin inline configuration, F82 style. Won’t see many of they. two 160 inline twins. It would be delicious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Fry Posted December 13, 2021 Share Posted December 13, 2021 Mind worm planted. Buy one kit, replicate 2 nd fuselage, bit of centre section, and it transports in three, the middle bit with both the motors and undercarriage, and the wings. You know it makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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