Galaxy Models Mystic or Phoenix for a Laser 155.

[Jon H]

It does indeed but she'd be a big'un. around 8ft span? 6 for the kit wings and another 2 in the middle? It would be like a giant version of the twin Nigel is working on. 

 

The slightly less monster alternative is to go the square DH Comet route. Nacelles on the wings, rear retracting undercarriage, twin...80 4 strokes? Might be fun ? 

[Nigel R]

Aww, it would be a thing, for sure, two inline twins, mmm. You could probably finish it before I get my smaller thing done anyway!

 

Must remember the name Square Comet. Was thinking of one day (too many projects!) doing a trike gear twin with region of 2x60-80 four strokes...

[Jon H]

I wish i had space. i would build a square comet tomorrow, along with 3 spitfires a zero, 190, 109, p51, p40, 2 sopwith pups, an se5a and a fokker triplane. 

 

i need more room or fewer projects, and one is never going to happen.  

 

Anyway my pulse 125 conversion is great with twin 70's at 76inch and i think 13lbs. Given the more sturdy build of the galaxy models i would go twin 80 for more speed ? 

Edited December 14, 2021 by Jon - Laser Engines

[David Davis]

Sorry not to have posted recently on the Mystic build but I spent most of January and February in England because of illness in the family.

 

I have made channels for the aileron cables and I've fitted two Savox SC0252 in the rear fuselage. I'm still undecided as to whether to use one of these servos for the elevator and one for the rudder or both servos for the elevator and a third servo mounted inside the fuselage for the rudder. If I chose this option I will use a closed loop to actuate the rudder.

 

I'm finding a few problems in identifying some of the parts because many of the hardwood and plywood parts are not numbered or well illustrated. The wing is retained by a small dowel in the leading edge as is common practice. The rear of the wing is bolted into position by two steel bolts running through two 12mm dowels which have to be glued into the wing. You then have to drill 3/16" diameter holes in the dowels to take the bolts. The bolts screw into two captive nuts in Part 54. I have been unable to identify Part 54 but I've built some models in the past so I'm able to extemporise! I will make up a plate from 6mm plywood to take the captive nuts.

 

Pictures of the servos and dowels below. The servos are only temporarily mounted into place with two bolts!

 

I have gained permission from Cloud Models to finish the model in the same colour scheme as their Mystic except that mine will have Galaxy Models on the wing rather than Cloud Models.

 

Miss Blue Eyes will have to wait for her purple and pink model!

 

Edited March 23, 2022 by David Davis

[Jon H]

I would probably go for a single servo but with a split pushrod so each elevator gets its own. I find this stronger than a wire linking the two sides

[Nigel R]

Closed loop rudder, elevator order of preference - hardwood joiner for elevators, two decent snakes, split pushrod. I'm no fan of wire joiners either.

[David Davis]

Taking shape.

[David Davis]

I posted the same picture of the Cloud Models Mystic (23rd March) over on RC Groups and was advised not to use white as the background colour for the model because it fades too easily into the sky.

 

I have never had an all white model before but I once built a Flair Hooligan, their answer to the WOT 4. It had a white stripe up the middle of its wing and I was able to notice that in flight. Agreed the white band was between a yellow and orange band. It was one of those models that I regretted selling.

 

Similarly, I built a SLEC Fun Fly with white wings and I never had a problem seeing that. The Mystic is of course a much bigger model than either of the opther two.

 

What does everybody think? I already have the graphics from Pyramid Models. Should I use white or choose another colour? I will be using film to finish the model.

 

Edited April 26, 2022 by David Davis

[Ron Gray]

I think you will find that it will be fine DD, the contrasting graphics colours will help!

[cymaz]

It’s the bold contrast you see not the colour when flying.....to me, it all goes grey now 

[Nigel R]

I do most of mine white. Then stick on some darker colours for decoration. No issues seeing them. As long as there is some contrast with the coloured bits it'll be fine.

 

e.g.

 

 

and some blue or black patches underneath for more contrast

 

[Tim Flyer]

I hope your Mystic is flying well David I’m sure the Laser 155 is a perfect match.

 

I also recently built a Mystic but used an old OS 120AX which I had spare which is also a nice fit in the cowl. 

I thought I would add a couple of photos of my Galaxy Mystic which I finished in May and have had many fun flights with since. I extended the high rear section for aesthetic reasons and it is great on “knife edge” flying! It goes very fast and is precise  it can fly slow but certainly doesn’t slow down much on landing so I have added “up flaperons” which act nicely as air brakes. 
 

[Tim Flyer]

[Tim Flyer]

The only modification I have made since the photo is turning the undercarriage (from a Wot4XL) around so it is swept back. That brings the wheels rearward near the correct position which takes excess weight from the tailwheel and improves handling etc. .  
I changed the undercarriage from the original kit wire design to aluminium to make it more durable.  The aluminium Wot 4 XL undercarriage works best with wheels swept backwards bringing them close to original design . 

[David Davis]

I regret that I haven't made any progress on the Mystic since April 2022 because life, or more specifically death, has got in the way. Between August and October last year I lost my step-son suddenly to an aneurysm, my sister to panceatic cancer, a French friend who died when he was replacing the exhaust on his car and it fell on top of him, and my aunt, also to cancer. Then in March this year a friend on the local music circuit died of cancer. With the exception of my aunt, they were all younger than me. 

 

Then there's keeping the house, van and garden in order which takes up more time at seventy-five than it did at forty-five!

 

In aeromodelling matters I have been concentrating on La Coupe Des Barons, getting three vintage models ready for the Cocklebarrow Vintage Event on August 20th and finishing off my DB Sport & Scale Auster. I'll get round to the Mystic once that's complete.

[David Davis 2]

At last some progress on the Mystic. I covered the underside of the wing with Kavan film which I bought from the French company Weymuller. It is at least as good as any other film I've used and it is less than half the price of Oracover. I suspect that the film is actually made in China. Kavan is a Czech company.

 

So, a question for you. I have two Savox SC0252 metal geared servos mounted in the rear fuselage. Should I use one to actuate the elevator and the other for the rudder using short carbon fibre pushrods or should I use both of them to drive the elevator halves and rig up a closed loop system for the rudder? The elevators are joined by a hardwood joiner provided with the kit.

[Jon H]

The original mystic would have used nothing more than about 2.5kg torque servos all round. yours 252's are 4-5 times the power so one per surface will be plenty 

[David Davis]

I have covered the fin and the underside of the tailplane. I am about to cover the elevators. I have always rounded off the trailing edge of elevators but there seems to be a fashion for leaving the trailing edge square. Does this make any difference if so what?

[cymaz]

So I’ve been told, the effect of a square trailing edge is to increase the efficiency of the moveable surface. It “elongates “ the air  , increasing the effective surface……if that makes any sense 

🤔

[Engine Doctor]

Also a square trailing edge it less likely to flutter than a tapered one , so ive been told. 

Edited October 31, 2023 by Engine Doctor

[David Davis 2]

Well I've left it square anyway. It was easier to cover!

[David Davis]

I have nearly finished covering the Mystic using film marketed by Kavan. I suspect that Kavan buys it in from China. When finished it will look something like the picture below.

 

My thoughts have turned to painting the cowl to match the covering film. I have two cowls, one is fibre glass the other is ABS. Both are very good quality and both are white but a different shade of white! Should I use a primer on the cowls or simply spray them with white gloss from an aerosol?

[Ron Gray]

Rub down, clean, primer/undercoat then gloss topcoat. 

[David Davis]

I am going to give the cowlings to a bloke in the club who is the panelbeater with the local Volkswagen agency!

 

[Tim Flyer]

Just as an aside .  On my Mystic I glassed the ABS cowl internally and externally, and it became almost as rigid as a full fibreglass version , so it’s worth saving the ABS one even if it isn’t the first choice. I’m sure the VW White will look great 😊